graphite arbors

[white43]

I'm building a spinning rod for a river cleanup group giveaway and noticed some odd looking things in the package, which I can now identify as graphite arbors. Piecing things together mentally I'd say they're thing that go under the reel seat. Am I correct? I can use a rasp to, obviously, to reem the center out, so what would you suggest to hone down the outside to fit them into the reel seat. And, there are three separate arbors. Do I need all of them? I cannot find the answers from my typical sources, and hope I'm not considered a traitor for building a spinning rod. You folks have always been a great help and I'm back for another shot of hope. Thanks. JGW

you are right and you can use only two, but make sure that you get the voids full of epoxy before sliding the reelseat in place...

psst...masking tape is easier.

mgj

[David Parker]

White43; Your on the right track...these graphite arbors are for under the reel seat and yes you ream them out to fit the rod blank. If they are too large of an outside diameter, then they are for a larger reel seat. Proper size should fit thru the reel seat without having to remove any material from the outer diameter. Please don't feel that you are going against the grain by building a spinning rod....we are all anglers here and you mentioned you are building it for a special purpose. I happen to build and repair many different types of rods each year and found that it is best to use as many bushings under the reel seat as possible. They are light weight, give proper support to the reel seat, leave no air voids and the graphite ones tend to transfer the sensitivity from the rod blank to your hand nicely. Many builders use masking tape to make spacer bushings and yes these are easier to work with. I prefer to use a roll of fibreglass drywall tape cut into 3/8" strips. The webbing of the drywall tape allows the epoxy to blend thru the tape to the rod blank providing a good adhesion. I wind the strips around the blank to make bushings, leaving approx 3/8" to 1/2" between each one. Usually 5 bushings spaced evenly will cover the length required for the reel seat. Using Rod Bond 2 part epoxy paste, I spread it over the bushings, filling in the webbed tape and the spaces as well. Don't be stingy with the epoxy. It is always better to mix too much rather than too little. Clean up the excess with rubbing alcohol. From my experience, this method has provided the best adhesion between rod blank and reel seat on all of my rods.

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[white43]

Thanks for the priceless lessons, David. Once I figured out that these bushings went under the reel seat I was able to insert them perfectly. I went this route simply because of sensitive issues. Somehow the light went on, which is always a pleasant surpise. I like your tip about the drywall tape. I also learned that you can use a "glue stick" to adhese the single-foot line guides to the rod instead of masking tape. Lots of new challenges with this spinning rod, so I'm pretty excited. To reem the grafite fittings, do you use the rattail rasp? JGW

[David Parker]

White43;
Yes you can use a rattail or reamer same as you would use on the cork. Whatever you have on hand that works for you. The glue stick for mounting the rod guides works quite well and I find easier to work with than the masking tape thing. Just do not add too much glue. I usually heat the guide foot slightly over a candle, slide it across the glue stick , the remove any excess glue from the top and sides of the guide foot with my fingers while it is still warm. Too much glue on the foot will work itself through your thread wrap if not careful. From my experience, keeping everything clean, clean, clean has been the best advice I can pass on to anyone, for it plays a very big role in the overall outcome of the finished rod.

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