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Thread: Danville's 70 Denier Flymaster 6/0 Waxed

  1. #11

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    John,
    You mentioned that your furls were not as tight as before.....could that make them more subject to abrasion?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnScott View Post
    I did have another thought, and am very interested in your thinking on it. How about adding some kind of glue ( zap-a-gap comes to mind ) just at and above the tip ring ?? Would that strengthen the material and / or reduce fraying ??
    Far be it for me to offer any suggestions but instead of 'zap-a-gap' which is nothing more than Thick CA which will dry hard and stiff. I use a lot of CA from Thin, Medium and Thick.

    Will that create a new stress point below where the CA ends on the leader and the threads can still fray?

    How about something like Flexment or Shoe-Goo so there's more give and flexing at the tip ring but impedes fraying?

  3. #13

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    Frank ... I have some bottles that are a couple of years old ... If you want I'll give you a source right there in TX and he always has fresh glue ... I pay around $5 for a 2oz bottle.

  4. #14

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    Nope ... don't use that stuff .... most of the time it is old when it gets to the hobby stores and who knows how long it sit's on the shelf before someone buys it.


    The CA glues have a shelf-life of about 2 years; make no difference who's shelf it is on. I buy 1 oz. bottles of "EXTREME POWER" superglue at my local Hobby Lobby for about half of what the same amount of Zap-A-Gap costs, and it is still good after nearly a year, opened, and either on my tying bench, or at my lathe in my eternally hot garage! The label says that it is: " For Industrial Use Only"; for whatever that is worth
    [/QUOTE]A container of fresh Zap-A-Gap might last 6 weeks at either location, once opened; IF I am lucky. I much prefer to have something sitting there that I can depend upon to be ready for use when I need it. I have been using the "EXTREME POWER" for over 10 years now, and it has never let me down.[/QUOTE]
    I've not used that one ...

    Thanks, again.
    You are welcome Frank and I took another look at those pics and am sorting them out ... when I get back from Yellowstone I'll finish the pdf file for you

  5. #15

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    "Flexament it will be, if I need to experiment further. And I might just experiment with the threads that failed just to see if the flexament fixes the problems with those threads."

    and there is pliobond....

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnScott View Post
    ...
    It wasn't the rock. Last cast yesterday from the same rock into the same pocket and everything was fine, except this guy's attitude.

    John ... what kind of camera you using? It always seems to catch a smile on the fish showing he's thankful
    for you tossing him back.

    Probably made my last trip to Missoula this last weekend for fishing ... did ok at the stream I told you about.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnScott View Post
    The camera is an Olympus 850SW - waterproof to 10', shockproof from 5', and freezeproof to 14F. I've had it for about four and a half years and it continues to serve me well.

    John
    That's because he shows the same photo over and over and over...........LOL

  8. #18

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    You really need to avoid standing on that rock . . . !

  9. #19

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    ". . . tying a double overhand knot in the very end of the tip end of the leader after the furling was complete. Doubled the leader over about a third of an inch and . . . "whip" the doubled over leader from the tip ring to the overhand knot."


    I'm reading this to say the tip ring is captured within a Surgeon's Loop and the section of loop between the knot and the tippet ring secured with a 'Snell Knot' . . . ?

    Yes . . . No . . . Maybe so ?

    No matter, just so it works. (Did you try it from 'The Rock' yet . . . ?)

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