The article is about Southerners trying to reinvent an uninspired and ultimately unhealthy cuisine. Or at least take it back to to its beginnings (in terms of quality, local ingredients) and twist it into something creative. Take note: the article talks about Southerners, not Yankees, doing this. Here's to guys like Sean Brock (a Virginian by birth, now in Charleston), who sends a truck up here to East Tennessee to get traditional Southern raw ingredients like Benton's hams/bacons, Sweetwater cheese, and local sourghum to turn into new creations. Bravo for guys like him!
I think the cast iron skillet should be taken to Paula Deen's ample backside, not that of the new breed of Southern cooks. Or the NYT for pointing it out.
--Rich