I use a paste floatant on the lake or stream and work it well into the hair while fishing. Since I usually want my bugs to be "suspended" in the film, that works for me.
I use a paste floatant on the lake or stream and work it well into the hair while fishing. Since I usually want my bugs to be "suspended" in the film, that works for me.
Not sure if the end result is what your looking for, but " Shoe Goo" in a thin layer, spread with your fingers, through the hair, might be what you are looking for. Ive used it on the front of Dahlberg Divers to stiffen up the hair and make the fly chug heavier in the water.
Merry Christmas
Bob Duff
Draketake
I never treat my deer hair popper's and have not had a problem with them floating. Once caught 25 bass on one popper before I changed it. Should have left it alone because when I picked my rod back up it had slid under the cleat on the boat. I just couldn't get it to pry that cleat off.
knucks
Some time ago I read about fly tyer who took a large order for deer hair mice for a lodge. He got absolutely sick of tying them. when he finally finished he warmed up abolene( a make up remover) and soaked the order of mice in it before sending them off to the lodge. at the end of the season the lodge called him back and told him to name his price for tying more because they were unsinkable.
I know a number of people that use Rain-X to waterproof their dry flies. I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work equally well with deerhair. Readily available and already in a spray cotainer for easy application. Just a thought...
Jim Smith
the old Dave Whitlock method for making deer bugs more water resistant and a lot tougher is the best I've found, and I've tried most of them. Use THINNED flexament (I make my own with shoe-goo and toluene) and paint it on the underside of the bug where the hair is trimmed closest to the shank. Then also put some on top. Use a small disposable craft-store art brush. Don't use too much, because as you found out the hard way, it will wick back into the tail materials. Quite often anymore, I just paint some on the bottom of the bug and leave it at that. This really improves the structural integrity of the bug too, by soaking the thread wraps which are holding in the deer hair bunches. I've caught 5 and 6 Pickerel on a single bug done this way and it was still fishable. Also, lots of times a deer bug which is sort of water-soaked rides lower in the surface and fishes extremely well. Might be a little heavier to cast, but works well.
Dave,I use the 'spray' waterproofer on my deer hair bugs. What I use is called 'Silicone Water Guard' and is available in the camping section at most WalMarts. I spray the stuff into a container to concentrate it, then dip the baits into it to waterproof them. They don't sink. If I don't want the tails to be waterproofed, I do as you've deduced, treat the body and then tie the tails. Good Luck! Buddy
It Just Doesn't Matter....
Buddy...yes, that sounds like the same stuff I used. Orange cap on the spray can?
It seriously floats the deer hair! Maybe a bit too much?
I may try both methods...with the silicone spray (on the head only)...and without spray, like "knucks" suggested. I think there will be times when I want the popper to float high, and other times I'll want it to sit a bit lower in the water.
Great suggestions everyone, its interesting and educational to hear what everyone else is doing.
I tied up another on this weekend...it turned out really good, I thought...and I didn't treat this one with anything (except I've been treating the flat "face" of the popper). I will be tying more!
David Merical
St. Louis, MO
Dave,Initially, the bug will seem to float too high. For the first cast or two they will skip across the water and lift and light like a moth or butterfly, not how they were designed to work, but I've caught some awfully good fish on the first cast so the fish don't seem to care. Then, water gets into the spaces between the hairs, and all is well. The bug will then work consistently from that point on. If you don't want that odd first cast, dip the fly under the water and squeeze it and that will get the water in there immediately. You will also find this on untreated bugs. As for untreated tails, they also need a cast or two to get waterlogged enough to give you the effect you want. Deer hair is fun, ain't it? Buddy
It Just Doesn't Matter....
Hi FishnDave,
For years we've waterproofed our popper heads by spray/soaking the spun/trimmed head with Kiwi Kamp Dry and letting it dry on a drying wheel. The next day we finish the popper by adding the tail/hackle etc.
FYI: We've also used the same spray to water proof Chickabou pelts. Just spray the heck out of the pelt/fuzzy feathers (we know it looks like heck but don't worry) and let it dry for a day or so. After the pelt/feathers are fully dry we use a soft brush to "fuzz" the feathers back up. They will be just as fluffy as they originally were but are water proof. The feathers make a great substitute for CDC on dry flies. Take care & ...
Tight Lines - Gretchen & Al Beatty
www.btsflyfishing.com
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