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Thread: In need of a new vice.

  1. #11
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    Most cheaper vises have jaws too soft to last for the long haul... Unless you redress the jaws. Take the vise jaws completely apart and sight down the "flat" inside (gripping) surfaces. Chances are they flare out. It is hard to hold a hook when the jaws are trying to spit it out like a watermelon seed.

    Flatten the jaw surfaces by lapping on a large FLAT whetstone or hone. I use a number of different diamond coated "stones" for the purpose. If your stone is not absolutely flat or if you do not have one there are several cheap ways of getting around that. A piece of plate glass with valve grinding compound on the surface makes an excellent substitute... and if valve grinding compound is hard to find, use high quality Wet-or-Dry sandpaper (use it wet) backed with the plate glass.

    All require a little finesse. Lapping is NOT done by holding the piece tightly in your fingertips and rapidly running it back and forth over the abrasive surface. That will create enough rocking motion in the jaw to round the edges. Instead, press gently with at least two fingertips and move the jaw back and forth lengthwise. Start with coarser grit (there are several different scales so I will leave that up to you to figure out at the hardware store) and work to finer. It should take no more than 3 grits, but one or two may be enough.

    With wet or dry under the old sandpaper system you should end with 400grit. 320 will remove a lot of metal faster if needed.

    Do not worry about the surface of the jaw that will not be touching the hook as it should not be touching the other jaw in use, either. Some cheaper vises I have lapped were quite bent and a light tapping with a small peen hammer brought them back. Set the vise jaw on the bench, mating surface down, with a small piece of brass or other soft metal under the jaw very close to the point. A number of light taps with a small hammer will not break the jaw, just do not try to do it all at once.

    Some vises have hook grooves cut in the tips of the jaws. I ignore them as I am not taking off that much material. Some high end vises have jaws designed to spring slightly and they will be curved very slightly at the tips... The hook will not likely be slipping in them and so you will not see the need to lap them.
    art

  2. #12

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    hap, coincidentally just yesterday I was working on that problem...tips of the jaws flared out...so your suggestion is timely...I'll give it a try.

    I was contemplating grinding the tips down to where the jaws meet. It would make the tip of the jaws more blount but I'm thinking that is not a problem. What do you think?

  3. #13
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    Definitely DO NOT grind the jaws back shorter! For one thing that usually involves a grinding wheel and the jaws are probably fairly soft to start with... Heating the metal by grinding will not make it harder. I have peened many jaws back together a bit. Because the hook is going to ride between the jaws the problem with the flare is not the fact the jaws don't touch, but rather the angle of the jaws is trying to squirt that hook out...
    art

  4. #14
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    I was able to get my hands on one of the Terra's to try out. Overall it seems to work pretty well. The rotary option is nice for ribbing and such. The only down fall I see with it is the lack of material clip/spring. I don't really see a good spot to put one either.

  5. #15
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    If there is room for one, you can get a spring clip/spring on Ebay, or at least you used to.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wingsdlc View Post
    I was able to get my hands on one of the Terra's to try out. Overall it seems to work pretty well. The rotary option is nice for ribbing and such. The only down fall I see with it is the lack of material clip/spring. I don't really see a good spot to put one either.
    I use a magnet, sometimes 2 magnets, about half way down the jaw for a clip, works pretty good for rotary work, easy to move around.
    Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!

  7. #17

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    I like the basic Griffin 2A vise.

  8. #18

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    The Griffin 2A Cam is available for $59.50. It is a great travel vise as well.

    Wayne
    "I Never Saw A Wild Thing Sorry For Itself, A Bird Will Fall Frozen Dead From A Bough, Without Ever Having Felt Sorry For Itself."

  9. #19
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    The difference rotary vise and TRUE rotary vise is so significant it is difficult to describe.
    If you are not looking at a true rotary, test one out and you may find it worth double the price of a standard rotary.

  10. #20

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    HMH

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