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Thread: I hate silk.....

  1. #11

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    you made the right choice slecting a down-locking reel seat. I have found the CG to be better balanced on boo rods with the reel on the end of the rod. just don't over tighten the reel. tight lines!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fritz View Post
    you made the right choice slecting a down-locking reel seat. I have found the CG to be better balanced on boo rods with the reel on the end of the rod. just don't over tighten the reel. tight lines!
    Is there anything else to put on a 'boo rod?

    The only thing I was concerned about was the turquoise insert. I was concerned it might be a bit over the top. When I asked her what her favorite colors were, she said, "Blues or greens, but I really like turquoise." I saw the Tru-Stone pen blanks and had to do it. The insert is crushed turquoise in resin. She loves the rod so I guess that is what counts.
    Kevin


    Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbproctor View Post
    Is there anything else to put on a 'boo rod?
    Well, yes. The DL is far and away the most prevalent though.
    Last edited by bobbyg; 10-09-2011 at 03:56 PM.
    When you can arrange your affairs to go fishing, forget all the signs, homilies, advice and folklore. JUST GO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbyg View Post
    Well, yes. The DL is far and away the most prevalent though.
    And rightly so. My favorite seat/grip setup on a 'boo rod is a downlocking seat with a Fenwick style grip.
    Kevin


    Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.

  5. #15

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    KB:

    What exactly was your problem with silk? Did you get bleed-through of the varnish (blotchy wraps)? If so, how many coats of CP did you use. And what was your "regular CP"?

    --Rich

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    Quote Originally Posted by eastprong View Post
    KB:

    What exactly was your problem with silk? Did you get bleed-through of the varnish (blotchy wraps)? If so, how many coats of CP did you use. And what was your "regular CP"?

    --Rich
    I had a lot of problem getting a nice smooth wrap with it. I tried a wide range of tensions from quite loose to almost tight enough to break the thread. I think it was more of a size thing than the material to be honest. Beyond that, it has no stretch and doesn't pack as easily or uniformly as nylon.

    Then, yes, there were blotch problems. I am absolutely certain that some of this came from the problems I had with winding. I had originally tried plain old FlexCoat water based acrylic CP. I also tried AeroGloss Clear and water based polyurethane. The last worked the best for me. I applied 3 or 4 coats of the water based poly and followed that with spirit based poly to get the same "look" of the finish on the threads as was on the bamboo. The rod itself was finished with Minwax Gloss Wipe-On Polyurethane. I love the way it goes on and gives a nice thin finish. Once all the finish was dried, the whole rod got another couple of coats of the wipe on poly. I had really wanted the AeroGloss Clear to work well as some builders had told me it does. Being in more of a production environment than hobby, the laquer based product would have been highly desirable for finishing speed.
    Kevin


    Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.

  7. #17

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    KB:

    If you're comparing how Size 100 silk wraps compared to Size A nylon, it will be easier to avoid gaps and the dreaded over-wraps with the larger diameter thread.

    Personally, I've never noticed much of a difference in wrapping silk vs. nylon of the same approximate diameter. The silk can be fuzzy at times, but that's about it. I usually use silk just because of the wide array of colors available. It's very difficult for me to tell the difference between silk and nylon, especially when not color preserved. Even with CP, it's hard to tell. However, if I use shellac as your CP, I notice that silk has more sparkle, especially in the sunlight.

    BTW, the diameter difference between Gudebrod A and 00 is that the A is about 20% thicker than the 00. Prove it to yourself. Mark off a fixed distance on a dowl and count the number of wraps it takes to cover it.

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    This is what I was thinking. I had similar problems when I wrapped size D the first time.

    This was YLI 000 silk from Rushbrooke Strand. They had 0 which is supposed to be about the same as A but not in the colors I wanted. If anyone has a source for a broad range of colors in Size A Silk, I would love to know about it.

    ProWrap has a much larger variety of colors in nylon than was available to us even 18 months ago. Bullard is supposed to be coming out with their own line of thread as well.

    About the only difference I see between silk and nylon without CP is that the nylon seems to stay a tad more vibrant and if you are shooting for an invisible wrap, the nylon does not go perfectly clear. It stays a tad milky. At least the Gudebrod white did. From what I have read, this is due to UV stabilizers added to the thread. I haven't tried the ProWrap white as yet to see how it does.
    Kevin


    Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.

  9. #19

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    For YLI Size 50 (91 colors): https://www.uncommonthread.com/category-s/146.htm

    Tire Brand Size 50 is also available (171 colors): http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...silk/products/

    Kimono Size 100 (80 colors): http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...0yds/products/

    Kinkame Size 50 (36 colors): http://www.thesewphisticatedstitcher.com/ki10sith.html

    Add to those classic silk by Belding Corticelli, Rice's, and others, and you've got a bunch!

  10. #20
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    Thank you! I'll give them a shot.
    Kevin


    Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.

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