cork grips

[Steven McGarthwaite]

Many years ago (1999 Black Hills Fish-In) I got bit by the "Gatti Bug", when I was allowed to do some trial casts of LadyFisher's FRC 3 wt Gatti Fly Rod! Gatti's are a Italian fly rod that have a ceramic-graphite compositing and back then were very high end. I was able with the help of LadyFisher to order just the black from Gatti (who was st that time, a sponsor of FAOL) that was mailed to my local fly shop "Anglers Hut" in Little Canada MN. Back then I only had one fly rod which was a Cortland CL series 6 wt. I used Al Campbell's "Building a Graphite Rod" series for all my instructions.

My Cortland handle was too small of a diameter for my hand grip, and was the wrong shape for my hand grip, so it took me a long time after I received my 3 piece Gatti FRC 3 wt, before I started to build my first fly rod.

First thing I had to do is figure a way of measuring my hand grip size and shape. I search on the internet for help, but could not find anything! And from that I wrote my one of my first articles for FAOL. I early writing were not that professional, so I apoligize for the youthful (50 years old at the time I wrote the article) enthusiasm.

http://www.flyanglersonline.com/feat...customgrip.php

After that I built my "Gatti", I replaced the handle grip on my Cortland CL fly rod. Since then I have build more fly rods from blanks for myself always using the handle grip model that I made from using two dowels one being 1/4 inch diameter, and the other dowel being a 1/2 inch less in diameter than my hand grip diameter (read the article). I cut the 1/4 inch dowel into two sections to roll the "Play Dough" out to a uniform 1/4 inch diameter for placement on the larger dowel (I have a 1-1/8 inch hand grip diameter, so I needed a large dowel that is 5/8 inch diameter).

For removing the original handle grip I recommend using a "Channel Bar" to nip away and the handle grip, on the edges (never have any part of the Channel Bar anywhere near the rod blank. There will be cork remaining on the butt of the rod, which can be evened out using some a half-bastard file (flat side) then some sandpaper (using a sandpaper holder) leaving about 1/16 inch of the original cork handle still attached to the fly rod blank.

Then using a "Rat Tail" file you ream out the inside hole on the cork disks (I bought 1-1/4 inch diameter Burled Cork) to slide onto the fly rod blank. From there I used Al Campbell's instructions for securing the cork sections to the rod blank and used my model for shaping my new handle using the "Half-Bastard" file for initial shaping then using sandpaper for all shaping down to the final diameters. The neat part about using the 1/2" diameter cork disks, is you can make marks on your model to use for comparison when you are removing cork material from the newly affixed cork disks that have been epoxied together. I started out with a course sandpaper( 60 grit), moved on to 120 grit, 180 grit, 240 grit, and 300 grit. Save the cork dust from the 300 grit sanding for fill holes in the cork. Then i used 000 steel wool for smoothing the surface of the handle grip. I did all the filing and sanding with the rod blank on a flat surface, doing only 3 or 4 swipes, then rotating the rod blank 1/8 of a turn.....

Most anglers have trouble with their casting because the handle grip size and shape on the fly rod, does not match their own hand grip diameter and shape.

Ted Williams "Hall of Fame" outfielder for the Boston Red Sox's, and fly angler, could tell if the handles on his custom "Louisville Slugger" bats were even a 1/16th of a inch off is diameter, and he rejected them.
That is how important the correct hand grip diameter and shape are to hitting 0.400 Season Batting Average or for casting a fly to a fish!

I have a complete fly tying tower setup that I have used for building my fly rods, and turning the rods. The tower have marble bases and can be placed at and position when wrapping the guides or turning when applying epoxy. Willing to loan them out to anyone who is willing to pay the two and from postage, and insurance of $200 (if they get lost in the U.S. Mail, or damaged in shipment).

My rod building days are over, so anyone can use them, and if you like them I willing to let them go for $100.

~Parnelli

PS: I have a Three Year Rule: if I have not used something in 3 years I sell it to a stranger if the price is right or I give it away to a friend! Some of the fly rods I have inherited are out on long term loans to anglers I know