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Thread: HOW TO CHOOSE A ROD - Our man in Canada - November 22, 2010

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  1. #1
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    Default HOW TO CHOOSE A ROD - Our man in Canada - November 22, 2010

    HOW TO CHOOSE A ROD

    As we are gearing up and reserving dates for the 2011 season, a common question seems to be popping up on a lot of forums and e-mails: I'm looking for a new fly rod. Which one is best?

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    I have a slight disagreement with Chris. Often the more expensive rods do cast better or weigh less so they take less stress over the day and at the end of the day is when you might notice the difference.

    On the other hand who cares in 95% of your fishing time if you can cast 80' or 75' or if you are a bit more tired at the end of the day. I used to have a high end Thomas and Thomas. I traded it for 3 lower end rods of different weights giving me more opportunity to fish different situations. With thos rods I have as much fun as the T&T and that is what really matters.

    Conclusion: buy what you can afford and don't sweat it. When you are on the water a broom stick can work fine.

    jede

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    I have built most of my fly rods, because I need larger handle grips to match my hand grip size and shape (prevents tendinitis) aiding in casting without having to squeeze to keep the fly rod from fly out my grip during the cast.

    As far as I am concerned, there are three categories of fly rod action; Quick Tip, Quick, Moderate.

    Quick Tip Action: All the bending of the fly rod during the cast, and during bringing the fish to net is in the top one-third of the fly rod shaft. Where the bend ends is the true strength of the fly rod, and this is where the break will happen if you overload the fly rod in the cast or retrieval of the fish.

    Quick Action: All the bending of the fly rod during the cast, and during bringing the fish to net is in the top half of the fly rod shaft. Where the bend ends is the true strength of the fly rod, and this is where the break will happen if you overload the fly rod in the cast or retrieval of the fish.

    Moderate Action: All the bending of the fly rod during the cast, and during bringing the fish to net is in the full length of the fly rod shaft. Where the bend ends (at the handle grip) is the true strength of the fly rod, this fly rod should not break during the retrieval, unless you place a hand on the fly rod shaft above the handle grip to get more lift on the retrieval of the fish.

    Moderate action fly rods have excellent casting abilities, depending on what you are casting, and the weight of your fly line. I have a Ceramic/Graphite (Gatti) 3 wt, that casts quick tip, but when under load retrieving a hook fish will bend all the way to the handle grips.

    I also have some big fly rods that are fiberglass and split cane, for bass and pike fishing, I consider them Moderates, even though they are excellent for casting long distances.

    My Cortland CL-series fly rod (6 wt) lost 6-inches of its tip, after many years of fly fishing. I attribute that to material fatigue. I clean off the end, and installed a new "Tip-Top" and now consider this my go to fly rod for Smallmouth Bass. It still is a powerful fly rod when casting and retrieving. I have used this fly rod for 15 years, and it is still as good as the day I bought it.

    ~Parnelli

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jed View Post
    Conclusion: buy what you can afford and don't sweat it. When you are on the water a broom stick can work fine.
    jede
    In one word "Yup" ... Right on the head Jed!
    Christopher Chin

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtidd View Post
    HOW TO CHOOSE A ROD

    As we are gearing up and reserving dates for the 2011 season, a common question seems to be popping up on a lot of forums and e-mails: I'm looking for a new fly rod. Which one is best?


    The one that is in the palm of your hand whle you are on the water no question.

    But on that note as any consumer directed good you usually get what you pay for..

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