Float Tubing Sinking Lines - Siggestions??

[bobin4trout]

With my new float tube I am reading that a 10' or even 11' rod with fully sinking lines are basic equipment ("Float Tube Magic" by Pothier)

Most of my regular gear is about 5wt floating. As there are apparently various sinking rates for various lines, what would you suggest for high country and still water nymphing? (mostly trout)

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?The good? in Islam is something to be compelled, on others as well as on yourself. Whereas, in Christianity, ?the good? is something received through Grace.

I use a density compensated sinking line. That just says the line will all sink at the same rate, so it's not like a sink tip.

I use either a 9.5ft or 10ft rod for float tube fishing, but when I started, I only used my standard 9ft rods. The longer rods help to keep things off the water, but they are not required for tubing.

Look at it this way.... In a tube, it will be like wading in waist deep in water. Whatever you are comfortable casting will work.

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Ken

"The memory of a fisherman is more like fiction than journalism, that is, it doesn't ignore the facts, but it is not entirely bound by them, either."

John Gierach

The longer rods may give you a slight edge in casting but are also something of a handicap in general handling and in landing a fish. If you're using a sinking line you had better have a good sized stripping apron as well. Line not collected on the apron will sink, likely tangle around you're legs and certainly present a problem when shooting during the cast.

Spin

[This message has been edited by Spin (edited 16 February 2006).]

[bobin4trout]

Spin,
"Line not collected on the apron will sink, likely tangle around you're legs and certainly present a problem when shooting during the cast."

ROFLMAO..........I can see it now. With my luck I'd probably also get a wind knot in the water. Thanks for the advice.

[nick0danger]

I fish High mountian lakes (cold cold water) fish are usally in about 5 to 10 feet of water so i like to use a sinking line and a leech patteren, this give the leech a nice jigging action, and i can use a floating line. I also like to have a rod with floating and sinking line.

[ducksterman]

All good advice...

If I had to have just one line for stillwater tubing it would be an intermediate.

Next it would be the versitip system...

If I wanted a full sinking of what ever density it would be density compensated.

Now what I actually have I must say is excessive....

[nick0danger]

To add, even if you get a slow sinking line, you would just have to count a little longer to get it to the water depth you want. still sink just takes longer.

[Fly Goddess]

Now we're talking. I probably put stillwater in a whole different light than most. I love it and go all out. Small lakes I use my Echo, big waters I use my modified Cardiac Canyon. Both cases I take more than one rod. I would recommend if you do have to change reels or spools, put a leash on them. You can make one very inexpensively. I always take one floating, but, in sinking I like the clear intermediate, Type II, Type IV, and I love depth charge. These are all density compensated. But I also have a type III wet cell for them weedy places. Longer rods are great. I usually use 5-6 wt in 8 1/2' to 9 1/2'. On small lakes though I will use smaller lighter rods.

[This message has been edited by Fly Goddess (edited 16 February 2006).]

[Shoe]

You have some good information here. I am north of you a little ways. I have floating, intermediate (type I/II), type III, and type 6 lines. The type III and 6 are density-compensated full sinking. It all depends how deep I want to fish. I use the floating for all indicator and dry (a rare event). The intermediate I use for just under the surface down to 5-6 feet. The type III for 7-10 feet deep and type 6 for deeper. I have been into streamers and my most commonly used sinking line is the type III because it gets to the depth that I want. If I am fishing from shore, the intermediate or floating are my choices.

Oh, by the way, I have a cassette reel (Orvis Rocky Mountain) to make changing easy.

[This message has been edited by Shoe (edited 16 February 2006).]

[danbob]

Because I can't easily string up a rod with new line while on the water (at least not without making a complete fool of myself and dropping expensive things in the water), I often use loop-end sinking tips around 20 feet long on my dry line, with or without an indicator. If the fish start rising, I can be fishing dries again in a couple minutes. For lakes that I know are quite deep, I keep full sink line on a separate reel...it's your basic Cortland 444 on a 8.5 ft rod.
DANBOB