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  1. #1
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    Default backing

    For some reason I don't think I've ever purchased fly line backing. I guess I would only need the 20-pound for trout and bass lines, right?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by lastchance View Post
    For some reason I don't think I've ever purchased fly line backing. I guess I would only need the 20-pound for trout and bass lines, right?
    Yes, 20# would be fine for trout or bass. For that class of fish, backing really just fills the reel. For larger game, it becomes a bit more crucial.

  3. #3
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    Backing is important and every so often you should replace it. Just place enough backing on the reel so your fly line almost totally fills the reel. Too much backing and the fly line will hit the foot section of the reel. For most trout fishing it does just fill the reel, but, it keeps your line stored in a large a circle as possible on the reel, hence decreasing the coil memory of the line, thus you get better casting.

    Larry ---sagefisher---
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  4. #4
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    When you are ready to put it on your reel, first make a false run with things reversed --winding on your fly line first, then the backing. When you get to the point where your reel is as full as you want it to be, cut the backing, Then take it all off your reel and attach it the right way --backing first.

  5. #5
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    Just a thought: I have switched to 30lb backing on most of my freshwater reels. Not beacause 20lb isn't sufficent but because I can use about 30% less and still fill the spool, which is still more than I need. I can often fill two to three trout bass and panfish reels with a 150 yd spool of 30lb backing.

    How long does backing last? I have saltwater reels that have had quality dacron on them for more than 10 years and the backing is still just fine. I have switched out backing on a couple of reels when tests showed the stuff had weakened. This bad backing was not Cortland, Sci. Anglers. Mason, or Gudebrod product.

  6. #6
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    You may want to make one of these or more to my liking, one of these. I really like the one I made. Isn't this site marvelous!
    mcsteff

  7. #7

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    Note: When you are filling your spool for the first time at home you will tend to have good tightness and lay the line and backing on very symetric....probably not the way it's going to happen out on the water....leave a little more room than you think you need at home.

  8. #8
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    I use dacron tip-up (ice fishing) line on my trout reels
    You can find it at a close out price in the late winter.....
    The simpler the outfit, the more skill it takes to manage it, and the more pleasure one gets in his achievements.
    --- Horace Kephart

  9. #9
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    A tip; When trolling flies with a sinking line. Let all the flyline out untill there is just a couple of feet of flyline left on the reel almost but not quite to the backing. This way when a fish hits It yanks out the remaining small bit of flyline and a bit of the backing. This way when exagerating a tad about the size of the fish you can truthfully say "It took me all the way to the backing."

    Actually I use the backing as a guide as to how much line to let out behind my pontoon boat when trolling sinking line.

    I actually had a Carp legitimatly take me well into the backing. # 6lb carp on a #5wt can take an incredible amount of line out in a short period of time.

    On the ocean when using heavier lines we never tied the backing to the reel. Porpoise or sea-lions would often grab our salmon and run with them. We used heavy leaders which are hard to break when a porpoise is speeding away from you. When the porpoise and occasionally a female sea-lion hit the end of the backing and If you didn't get the knife out quick enough to cut the line you could lose the rod, reel and a patch of skin off your hand if the backing was secured to the spool.

    For the smaller trout however always secure the line to the spool. An arbour knot works great for this.

    They used to sell fairly cheap cork fillers that attached on the inside of the spool Axel. These in effect made the arbour size much bigger so you didn't need backing for small fish situations. It saved having to buy backing. An important thing for a kid with no ready cash.

    Another thing I learned was to use the more expensive Dacron and not the cheaper mono line for backing. Mono has stretch and when applied to a cheaper aluminum reel each layer of line adds more and more pressure which can when put on under enough tension add up until it will crush an el cheapo aluminum spool. ( A traumatic day for me at age 14 )

    For trolling with sinking lines I like to use the bright orange backing. I let about a foot of it exit the rod tip. That way you have an easy to spot bright spot to watch as you are rowing round the lake. It is more restful on the eyes.

    For Fish in the 10-20 lb range, mostly salmon we used to use fly rods with single action mooching reels on them. You have to have at least 400 yards of backing. When the fish hits we'd set the hook then let it run with no drag and the reel free spooling with no tension. Once the fish gets about 200-300 feet straight out from you, then you snug up the drag. To turn the fish parallel to shore you twang the line like a guitar this always turns the fish, I have no idea why. Now the line and backing gets a huge belly in it which the fish has to drag tiring it out. It cannot get in a good line breaking yank because when it pulls all it does is straighten out that belly of line a tiny bit. So you get less break offs. Having adequate backing on your reel is what makes this method work.
    Last edited by Gnu Bee Flyer; 03-08-2010 at 09:38 PM.
    For God's sake, Don't Quote me! I'm Probably making this crap up!

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