Gluing Cork Rings

[yonks311]

Hello all.

Its been quite a while since I have glued cork rings together and turned my own cork handle. Almost all of the rods I build get exotic hardwood handles and the ones that dont normally got a pre-made cork handle.

My next project will involve turning my own cork handle and just thought I would see what type of glue folks on the site like for this purpose. I would be gluing the corks and shaping on the lathe using a mandrel and then reaming and attaching to the rod blank.

I remember from years past when I did this using a 2 ton epoxy that it was often a very delicate process tyring not to get the ridges at the glue lines from the hard epoxy.

I was thinking of using U-40 rod bond but thought I would lean on the collective knowledge of the board before I did my glue up. Just wondering what glue you all use and why?

Thanks in advance.
Yonks

[cheffy]

I use Titebond 3. No ridging and easy cleanup with water if you get squeeze out.
I usually wrap my mandrel with teflon plumbing tape or wax it with an old candle. then glue up right on the mandrel and turn. then remove and clean up/ream the interior. the other glue of choice is Pliobond but I've had trouble getting it in my area.

[Sully]

.....
I was thinking of using U-40 rod bond but thought I would lean on the collective knowledge of the board before I did my glue up. Just wondering what glue you all use and why?

Thanks in advance.
Yonks

IMHO...U40 Rod Bond would be the best product by far!

[Bass_Bug]

Pliobond is the only thing I use on cork. It's a flexible waterproof contact cement. Available at nearly every hardware store and most online rod building sites. If you're gluing up to turn a handle, squeeze out isn't an issue since it will get sanded off anyway.

By the way, I glue up the rings on a 24" lenght of 1/4" threaded rod and clamp with fender washers and double nuts on each end. Pretty standard practice I imagine. Once dry, I chuck that in a 1/2" drill I built a turning jig around <http://colo2.flyanglersonline.com/bb/blog.php?b=216 >. Lock on and 'turn' with various grits of sandpaper.

Been meaning to post this and now seems like a good place to throw this out for comment. The article here on FAOL by Al Cambell however, starts with the threaded rod idea to clamp up the rings while the glue sets, but then he changes the cork over to a solid 1/4" rod to turn on. Just wondering why switching to a solid rod when the threaded rod works without any problems. Matter of fact the small aoumt of glue on the inside actually glues the cork to the 'mandral' while turning keeping it secure. To release you just need to remove the nuts and washers, grip the cork and turn on the drill and it unthreads right off the threaded rod.

[herefishy]

I was just admiring your jig, but wondered if the mandrel wouldn't eventually "ream out" the holes in the uprights that it turns in?

[Bass_Bug]

I was just admiring your jig, but wondered if the mandrel wouldn't eventually "ream out" the holes in the uprights that it turns in?

They will eventually. They have a little so far, but nothing that inhibits the final product. I've looked at bronze bushing to press in the holes, they just haven't enlarged enough yet. However, as simple at those supports are, I can make a replacement the pair in about 15 min.

[bazakwardz]

Threaded rod tends to be pretty crooked. Using it to turn a grip would cause the grip to not be perfectly centered around the bore. It may not be noticeable in some cases, but it can it can ruin the grip if the front or back is very off-center.

The solid rod tends to be straighter. Some rod building stores sell mandrells specifically for this purpose.

[MontanaMoose]

I use the Devcon epoxy for the corks and a drillstock mandrel. I've learned how close to the center i can apply the epoxy on both sides of each ring so as not to epoxy it to the mandrel but i don't worry about the outside, though it's better if the epoxy isn't on the outside. Not a huge prob if it is though...unless i'm shaping completely by hand, in which case i'm more stingy with the epoxy out towards the edges.

Since the rings are on a smooth mandrel i don't clamp them, rather stand the mandrel and rings on end with the bottom cork supported against the top of the vice jaws that's holding the end of the mandrel then i slide something on the top end that presses the corks a little...it doesn't take much...something like few fender washers or whatever is handy.

Cheers,

MontanaMoose

[Sully]

I always used threaded rods for cork grips. Clamps as has been posted ( double nuts and fender washers) and when it came time to turn them Id unbolt the washers and set them aside so that my "shaping" tools didnt run into them.

When Id first buy them Id center drill one end and that way the live center on my Jet lathe would always center up just fine.

I didnt make it a habit of turning grips from glued rigs because the price of AAA quality rings was about $2 less than a completed Struble AAA quality grip PLUS the struble grip was already conuter bored for the reelseat nose.

Reelseat inserts I used a "pen mandrel" which fit the hole I had to deep bore in the wooden seat insert.

Here is my grip and insert lathe...