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Thread: Toon, float or kayak?

  1. #1

    Default Toon, float or kayak?

    I'm certain somebody has asked this question but I just couldn't find any posts on it.
    I am thinking about getting one pontoon, tube or kayak but I'm not sure which one would be more suitable for bass and striper fishing in a mid size pond. I don't have a lot of experience fishing from a boat so I take I don't have sea legs if that matters. I did own a u shape tube that I tried once in pool, it seemed easy to handle.
    The other thing to take into consideration is that my fishing budget is not what it use to be so I can't spend a lot.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    I believe I can fly fish

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Mojave Desert CA
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    2,420

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    http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/forumdisplay.php?f=9
    Check this out. I think he has one left. Jim
    I'm either going to, coming from or thinking about fishing. Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Wondervu, CO
    Posts
    737

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    You might need to be a little more specific about the intended uses for a definitive answer, but here are some of my observations...

    float tubes
    - easy to transport, fit into the trunk of a car
    - your butt is always in the water, not so nice on cold days
    - not efficiant over distance, few yards OK, a hundred yards is a heck of a lot of kicking
    - can be impossile to return to launch point in high winds, beach the boat and walk home
    - since your legs dangle down you need min. 3-4 feet of water to float
    - entering shallow banks is difficult, need to walk in clumsy flippers to deeper water
    - legs hanging down can be dangerous in moving water, feet catch and flip ya right over
    - light enough that hiking in to remote locations is possible
    - not allowed on many rivers do to safety issues
    - can't pee out of one, you will need to go to shore and remove your waders

    pontoons
    - fits in the back of my SUV when dissasembled, or on top when put together
    - takes 20 minutes to assemble or take down, prefer to leave it set up for multi-day
    - butt sits high and dry in comfy seat with back support, legs can rest out of water too
    - low draft, floats in 6" of water, enter or leave shallow water easily
    - need flippers or extra set of arms to fish and row at same time
    - flipper and oars work best in 'reverse' direction, forward travel is much less efficiant
    - big enough for lots of gear, small cooler, live well, spare clothes, 6 pack, whatever
    - big wide footprint, really hard to flip one
    - some are stable enough for stand up casting, nice feature
    - oars provide efficiant propulsion, can also mount small mount small trolling motor
    - higher wind profile, tough to keep it where you want it when wind is gusting
    - beefy enough for class III rivers, bounces off rocks w/o damage

    kayak
    - need roof rack for transport, include this in cost analysis, those thule racks aren't cheap
    - zero assembly time, gotta love that
    - it's a wet ride, you will be sitting in water much of the time
    - 90 degree sitting position is uncomfortable for some folks w/ back problems
    - paddle and fly rod each need two hands, cannot to fish and steer at same time
    - storage space is limited on some models, where do I put the cooler?
    - stable but it is still possible to flip them, expensive ones can be fitted w/ outriggers for stand up casting
    - very efficiant propulsion, good for long distances or upstream/upwind travel, silent and stealthy
    - travel forward, backward and turn on a dime no problem, as long as both hands are free
    - might want a paddle leash or spare break down paddle, they don't go far w/o one.
    - need full size storage space for off season, 12-16 feet takes up a lot of room
    - modern roto molded plastic hulls are almost indistructable, pass boat the along to your grand kids
    Last edited by kengore; 10-19-2009 at 10:45 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Wow Kengore, that was an amazing explanation. This will make my purchase (one day) a whole lot easier. I thank you for sharing such valuable info. I think so far I'm leaning towards the float, easier to use. I will be fishing a lagoon with bass and some striped bass. What shape do you think is better?
    I believe I can fly fish

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    NE Gwinnett Co., GA
    Posts
    5,937

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    I have a pontoon, round tube (my 3rd) and a Fish Cat LCS4. The latter is my favorite of the bunch. I get out the pontoon when I have a larger lake to cover as even with my pitiful rowing skills I can fish a good sized lake and travel from bream bed to bream bed with relative ease. If I used it more I would probably use my trolling motor on it some. I frequently wear shorts and sun block on the upper leg. I wear swim fins and use them to to move around while fishing.

    Kengore in right taking a whiz in a float tube is involved, a float tube is a barge where the LCS 4 is more of a boat when it comes to moving around. In warm weather you could wear shorts with either really but with the round tube you will be soak with the LCS you will have a wet backside. If I could only have one toy of this type it would be the LCS or a similar pontube.

    Down here thunderstorm can come up quick, the fastest you can go in any type float tube is really slow. I have been known to do aerobic float tubing with hand paddles and swim fins going in unison, but I really don't like to practice.
    Want to hear God laugh? Tell him Your plans!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Kilgore, Texas
    Posts
    753

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    Heres the toon i have... aint had a bit of trouble with it... very tough & rugged... takes me about 10min to put it togather, inflate the floats & have it all readied up to go... i use a coleman battery opperated air pump steadin of the hand pump what comes with it...

    http://www.creekcompany.com/indivdis...toID=254&Cat=3
    A.S.F 5th GP ...TO FIGHT SO OTHERS MAY REMAIN FREE...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Fayetteville, Arkansas, USA
    Posts
    174

    Default Sit in kayak

    For inland lakes and rivers I think sit-in kayaks are superior to sit on top kayaks. You stay dry and most have much more comfortable seats than sots. They also tend to be faster and more manuverable (of course there are exceptions). A 12 foot rec kayak with a large cockpit makes a great fishing craft.

  8. #8

    Default

    Kayak are fast, but if windy, no hands free fishing. They are what they are, they don't deflate (unless you get one of North Forth Outdoors, which are cool as heck, plus you can sit side way and kick with flippers).
    But, I am betting the price is up there

    Donut tubes, hard to cast from as you are sitting half in the water. Plus, there are cases of people rolling upside down and drowning.

    "U" tubes are a little better, in that they have an open front. But they require that cross bar that with out makes for a very uncomfortable ride. Plus those braces can and do break.

    "V" tubes are great. Shaped like an arrow head, they cut through the water great. Sitting higher, easier to cast from. More storage.
    You have a choice of a foam seat (which will require modification after time) and the inflatable. The inflatable packs up very small and easy to transport.
    More storage.
    Again exception to this rule, is North Fork Outdoors, with the Freestyle H3. 6' long "V" tube. It can take rivers (the boat can, the operator is another story). You can also use paddles on it, or get one of those oar kits made over seas.
    Plus I watched a video of some guys rolling over on their belly in a "V" tube and swimming. They could cover allot of water very quickly. Just a thought.

    Lastly, Pontoon. The most comfortable seat available. Molded, padded plastic seat. You can sit for hours, and even pee more easily (even me with aid of a towel or some coverage)
    Your leg from the knee down are in the water, so you only need Hippers or in some cases I have seen the knee high rubber farm boots work.
    You can kick, row, and for a license fee - motor.
    Sitting higher, easier to cast, plus several models with standing platform.
    Allot more storage.
    Depending on the material is the weight factor and longevity.
    Aluminum frame and Urethane or Bladderless is going to be the lightest.
    Urethane or bladderless is less susceptible to altitude and temp change, plus less likely to crack from being folded up.
    Vinyl, is cheaper and heavier and more effected by alt, or temp, and not the longevity. Can get cracks and holes from folding.
    The outer cover it very important. Like a hot dog, it holds it all together. Thicker PVC is going to add weight but also adds toughness.
    A rhino type bottom is the best as you can drag the boat.
    PONTOON ROCKERS...this is the tips of the pontoon. Like the ODC, it has very large rockers. Designed more for white water than still water. Less of the over all (center) pontoon is in the water, meaning less weight capacity.
    Outcast, Bucks, NFO are shorter rockers and are outstanding for stillwater plus rivers. More all purpose than the specialty pontoons. Plus the large rockers on the ODC means less material, and less money.

    Just my take on it.
    I have started off in a Donut, moved up to a "U", then the SFC followed by the H3 and NFO Navigator II. I even had a Day Tripper (but that is another story). A Bucks Bag 6' Alpine pontoon, a Venture outdoors 4' pontoon. a Dave Scadden Expedition, and an Escalade, then the 11 1/2' Cardiac Canyon to the now OUTLAW X5.

    I admit, I have a flat bed trailer, but I can launch and trailer my boat by myself and I am not a burly woman. I have also launched at great distances.
    Even gone as far as laying a tarp down, putting boat on top and dragging it to the water over rougher territory.

    WIND, okay as I mentioned, I have had several boats and several models. WIND EFFECTS THEM ALL! People say you will get blown around more in a Pontoon because you sit higher........you will get blown around just as much in ANY boat. Advantage to a Pontoon, you can row if your legs give out.
    I have nearly died from exhaustion trying to get to shore in my SFC.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Western Portal Sequoia National Forest & the G.T.W., Kern River, CA.
    Posts
    531

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    Hi Martin,
    For what it's worth, here's my take.

    Go to each of the waters where you intend to use this watercraft and observe what type of craft, including the make and model that the anglers are using. Inquire into their reasoning and choices. Chances are that one or two types and sizes of craft will far outnumber all others you'll see there and you'll get a good look at the accessory set ups that are most common for those waters.
    Those anglers went through the selection process, possibly even a long and costly trial and error process and amongst the more seasoned anglers, there will be a body knowledge that already exist about which craft best suits those waters and fishing techniques. It might not be a bad idea to bring along your waders and whatever foot gear that you have that might be suitable to these craft. Many anglers would be glad to let you take a little test ride in their craft if they think your sincerely interested. ( ...and I'd bet that every respondent to this thread would let you take a test spin in their's, if it were possible. )

    If that's not possible, check in with fly fishing bulletin boards or fly clubs that target those same fishing areas, or for that matter, talk to people here who fish the same waters you intend to fish, they'll have a better feel for your home waters. But the best info you'll get will be that which you gather through your own on the spot observations and interviews.

    Best, Dave

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by kengore View Post
    You might need to be a little more specific about the intended uses for a definitive answer, but here are some of my observations...

    kayak
    - need roof rack for transport, include this in cost analysis, those thule racks aren't cheap
    - zero assembly time, gotta love that
    - it's a wet ride, you will be sitting in water much of the time
    - 90 degree sitting position is uncomfortable for some folks w/ back problems
    - paddle and fly rod each need two hands, cannot to fish and steer at same time
    - storage space is limited on some models, where do I put the cooler?
    - stable but it is still possible to flip them, expensive ones can be fitted w/ outriggers for stand up casting
    - very efficiant propulsion, good for long distances or upstream/upwind travel, silent and stealthy
    - travel forward, backward and turn on a dime no problem, as long as both hands are free
    - might want a paddle leash or spare break down paddle, they don't go far w/o one.
    - need full size storage space for off season, 12-16 feet takes up a lot of room
    - modern roto molded plastic hulls are almost indistructable, pass boat the along to your grand kids
    Have to disagree on several of the above points:

    You don't always need a roof rack. Many kayaks can be placed in the bed of a pickup truck. Also, existing "luggage racks" that come on most SUVs are sufficient for most sit on-top kayaks.

    My kayaks aren't wet at all. I have the Native Ultimate 14.5. Very dry ride.

    My kayak comes with the best set in the business -- hence, no sore butt or back. Plus, you can sit side-saddle. I even stand up in mine.

    doubt you could flip my kayak.

    Storage is plentiful in my kayak. I can carry a 36-quart cooler in the bow.

    As far as storage goes, I have a system in which they're stored on their sides on the wall of my garage. No problem.
    Steve

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