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Thread: Furling Board Features

  1. #1

    Default Furling Board Features

    I'd like to build a board that allows multiple positions of the pegs.

    For my current board I just have kept drilling more peg holes and that works...they are sort of a hodge podge so I 'd like to streamline. ...not very interested in drilling a whole bunch of holes say an inch apart.

    I have seen the really fancy ones some of you have with metal tracts and all.... besides not being anything close to a cabinet maker....I'd like to keep the costs down.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Kaboom1 are you still using the one you presented in that previous long furling thread? I'd be interested in more details of how you made the pegs....or any thing you would have done differently...or other advice.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Metuchen NJ
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Hi Ducksterman.
    I'm at the same stage you are. I just built a 3 hooked geared turning head with a 3 speed fan motor on it. My board looks like Swiss cheeze with all the holes in it. I'm building another board & I'll be using those t tracks.
    I've seen them for any where from $9.94 to $29.00 for a 4 ft length
    The cheapest is from McMaster Carr. If you get a better price let me know.
    I was just going to screw them down to a board & use bolts into wooden dowels.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#1850a19/=3vkgtp

  3. #3

    Default

    Hey folks a short highjack of my own thread....ask Fishn50 for pictures of his motor system ....neat

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Metuchen NJ
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    168

    Default gearbox

    Thanks ducksterman
    Here's the picture of the motor & gearbox I just made. I used Shoulder bearings & sandwiched the gears between them on 1/4 " Alum plate. I couldn't wait to try it out & mounted it any old way so this is not the final mounting system I have in mind. What a difference it makes. It is soooo much easier & quicker to use the 3rd hook to furl.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Elida, Ohio
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    1,696

    Default

    My solution for allowing multiple positions of the pegs was to rout a 1/4" groove in the furling board. The T track was just too expensive for my taste. The groove cost me the price of a new router bit and I have it for other projects. Here is a pic of the board



    And a couple of shots of the pegs





    The pegs are made with PVC plumbing parts and a 1?4' carriage bolts and nuts. The nut is trapped in a PVC fitting inside of the peg and allows you to tighten tyhe peg at the desired position on the board.

    Duck

    I am really happy with the board and pegs. They were cheap and work very well. So far I wouldn't change a thing. If you give me a couple of days, I will try and give yoy some detailed pictures of the peg construction.

    Brad

  6. #6

    Wink

    Duck -

    Very timely thread, so to speak.

    I just gave away my old furling jig to a friend in Idaho Falls as a part of my move, and have been planning to build a new one, probably mechanized with a set speed motor and a timer to control the consistency of the process, when I get settled in Missoula.

    This thread, with the great posts by FISHN50 and Kaboom1, really put a nice twist on the process. Caused me to furl my brow on a couple of the details, but .....

    John
    The fish are always right.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Lebanon,TN 37087
    Posts
    277

    Default

    I have always liked Kaboom1's board idea. I thought it would be nice to make it in 3 ( 3ft or 4ft pieces ) and dowel them to make the board more portable. maybe use a thicker board and not have the t slots go all the way through. ??? Maybe it's time for a new board. Like to get a gearbox like FISHN50's



    Might make it easier to store and travel with.
    Last edited by rons81; 10-02-2009 at 04:18 PM.
    Member FFF , TU, MTFF
    Ron

  8. #8

    Default

    Kaboom...the groove does go all the way through doesn't it?

    ...I need more detail on how you fixed the nut in the peg...from what I see I'd use a cap inside and epoxy the nut...now having said that I'd probably put the head of the bolt inside the peg and use a wing nut under the board.

    Looking forward to your pictures...

    Folks...find the thread by Denny Conranch on his motorized system and technique...I just built a 3 gear system modeling after his....very inexpensive....good source for gears and motor..I'd show a picture but I feel so inadequate next to Denny and Fishn50

    John...a stop watch makes a handy timer...simple....another Denny thing

    In messing around trying to find proper tension in any system ....I came up with what I call the "Sliding Motor " system...I'll probably stick to pretty much Denny's way...incidently it's twist to just before breakage...the sliding motor can do that too....

    But that's a subject for another thread....I ramble too much...for now I'm very interested in the board setup to take advantage of the motorized system and Parnelli's formulas.

  9. #9

    Default

    Forgot to mention ...I believe I would add a built in tape measure as some others have...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Metuchen NJ
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rons81 View Post
    I have always liked Kaboom1's board idea. I thought it would be nice to make it in 3 ( 3ft or 4ft pieces ) and dowel them to make the board more portable. maybe use a thicker board and not have the t slots go all the way through. ??? Maybe it's time for a new board. Like to get a gearbox like FISHN50's



    Might make it easier to store and travel with.
    Hi rons81
    I like your idea of a 3 piece board. I'm probably going to combine yours & Kabooms boards. ( That,s quite a piece of woodwork kaboom.) I only plan on using the T tracks for the pegs. I use a screw in hook for the tip end. I figure that most of the time I'll be going for a standard length so I'll only have a few holes over time. anyway I 'm thinking of using 3ea, 3' lengths of track on each side with a split in the board at the junctions. I'm not going to hog out the board for the track but I think I might use a length of 3/8" plywood as a base & put a 1 X 3 in the center with the tracks up against it. This will give me a 9' board & I can even use a extension if I ever decide to make a ten footer.
    Before I saw the track on another site I was going to just cut a 1/4" slot in the board & rout a 1/2 channel in the down side. This was going to be put on the piece of 3/8" plywood to hold it rigid. I figured I could just capture a few 1/4"X20 nuts in the track made. I was going to drill out the dowels & install those table leg bolts ( the ones with a wood screw on one end & a 1/4" X 20 thread on the other side). I like the PVC a lot better. That's what's so great about these forums , You can get all kinds of different ideas because everyone looks at things from a different perspective.
    As for the gearbox I was throwing out some old units at work & saw the gears & bearings & grabbed them. They worked out perfect. When i build the new board I'll enclose the motor assembly & make it even quieter. The fan motor was from an old 3 speed fan & I guess it turns about 600-800 RPM
    which is fine for me.
    Any way This Sunday I'm heading up to Maine for a week of Landlocked Salmon fishing so it'll be on hold until I get back.

    Neil

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