What's the best rollcasting outfit?
My knees are shot! I'm stuck at the bank, or close to it. There are trees, rocks, high banks, behind me.
What length rod, what action on the rod, line, leader and tippet would you use?
Can I rollcast with a dry and a dropper?
Do you have any other ideas?
HELP!
Thanks,
What kind of distance are you looking at roll casting? My humble experiences, short distance, short rod, long distance, longer rod...
"Because by the Grace of God I can, be on a beautiful mountain stream with a friend , have the water boil from a 12" Native Brookie taking a self tyed dry,and feel it on the end of my cane... It don't get no better than that..."
I roll cast with a dry and a dropper and rarely get tangled. As with all casting the longer the rod the farther you'll cast.
There are different opinions what's the best line and rod to use. Some say WF line, others say DT.
Personally, I like a WF line on a medium action rod, as this will mean the rod will load more. I also prefer a longer leader. But often I'm fishing fast rods, and then find I have to roll cast; so I think technique is very important. As a raise my rod tip, I always watch the bottom of my D-Loop and make sure it doesn't sag because I have waited too long to make my forward roll cast. The D-loop should be in an oval shape. If I want too long it will be almost an L-shape. (My anchor should be the leader and about two feet of fly line on the water.)
To make sure I don't add slack to the line during the cast, I hold the line against the rod butt with my index finger. When I make my abrupt stop I let go of the line.
Randy
WF and fast rods can work but you won?t cast far or have the same kind of control. No way man!Originally Posted by McManus
Remember, as the energy from your cast dissipates, it's still more likely to transfer the needed energy to the tip of a DT because the line goes from wide to thin just as the casting energy goes from max and dissipates to minimum. Similar to how a bullwhip generates so much speed as the whip gradually thins-out.
Therefore, med or med/fast rod with matched DT line both weighted to conditions works like a charm.
WF lines, especially some species-specific WF lines, cause problems when getting past the shooting head. Many of the lines designed for fast rods carry most of the weight too close to the line tip for roll casting. This is because have running line out and that?ll kill the energy transfer?..especially with a fast rod as they?re often tougher to load from D-loop and water tension alone. Especially when tying to get your loading tention from a thin running line that picks up off the water too quick to load the rod.
But skill counts for everything, all I need is a shoe string, tree branch and I'll cath em all baby.......Oh ya, I said it!
Interesting remarks about DT lines. I don't have any - I use a lot of shooting heads - but I'm thinking of buying one for my small stream rod. One of the things I was curious about was how well it will roll cast.
When it comes to spey casting - a form of roll casting - the fly line is much heavier than a conventional line, which led to believe that a WF was the way to go.
Any more opinions on this?
Also, if I want to haul and roll cast, I make sure my line hand is at the same level as my rod hand. That will help prevent slack in the line.
RAndy
how about this
McManus put "steeple cast" in your internet search engine. Maybe the steeple cast will work for you. I find it useful.
Many of the places I fish in the Sierras have those same obstacles fishing shoreline. It was suggested to me to give two-handed casting a try. I went with what many term a trout spey outfit. My purchase included a beginners spey casting DVD by John and Amy Hazel. It shows you many of the basic casts. Many of the two-handed casting techniques can be used with a standard fly rod. I have not tried this, but there are a ton of info on YouTube showing you how.
Trout don't speak Latin.
What about the triangle taper lines? I think they do a super job of roll casting up on our little woodsy mountain streams.
Trouts don't live in ugly places.
A friend is not who knows you the longest, but the one who came and never left your side.
Don't look back, we ain't goin' that way.
double taper line is a necessity in my opinion for rollcasting.
You should be able to roll cast with any outfit. Medium, fast or slow action
but the rod and line weight should be suited for the conditions.
Assuming you are speaking of streams:
Myself , I use two rods in your situation one is a 3wg 7'9" the other 4wg 8'3"
though a 9-footer would be nice too!,even longer I suppose...
I agree that a double taper line is best suited for the roll cast. The belly aids big time
in water / line friction to load the rod, a definite benefit you can feel...
Its all about the feel...
Leader depending on how stealthy you may want or need to go is a minimum of 7.5 with 18" of tippet or a bit longer.
I am thinking the shorter the rod the stiffer you want the action, just a gut feeling here..
A brace of droppers should not be any problem casting, but,
one additional thought to those mentioned about roll casting, it is important to be sure the
line has completely stopped moving on the water after your D forms
before starting the forward stroke. This allows a more effective loading of the rod.
All from my view of course..
Take care.
Steve
Last edited by Steve Molcsan; 06-09-2009 at 11:59 PM.
Relaxed and now a Full Time Trout Bum, Est. 2024
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
