Fly Tying desk design

[Northwoods]

I am planning to design and build, from light oak, a nice fly tying desk, bench, for my home office.

I want it to blend in with the other furniture trim etc that is why light oak is the choice.

I have a space 6 feet long two feet wide and 8 feet high. I would like to be able to put all my feathers, all natural material, in drawers (we have a cat) and if he got hold of my cree hackles ??????

I want to be flexible enough that I could use either a clamp or a base, have an open shelf that I conveniently go to to put my common tools, a good small vise lamp .

Any ideas as to how I should design and build this project???

I have lots of stuff, been tying about 35+ years.

thanks gang for any ideas.

Northwoods

(where supper tonight is fresh caught crappies and sunfish, through the ice of course since this is the north.)

[PRM]

Can't locate any plans, but try these for ideas:

http://www.coldstreamfurniture.com/
http://www.oasisbenches.com/oasis_benches.htm
http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView....er=desk%20plan
http://www.lukemccoy.com/pics-videos...96780151760577
http://www.flytyingfurniture.com/
http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter...ench/index.php
http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/i...fly-tying-desk

and right here on FAOL there's lots! Start with reading http://www.flyanglersonline.com/feat...cast/rc194.php

And do a search here on FAOL on "desks"

Good Luck!!!

[James Smith]

I have a roll top desk that I really like. The roll top hides any mess you might leave and will keep your cat out of your supplies. One feature that I built into my desk is a raised desk height that really helps minimize the back and neck pain I was experiencing when I tied for any length of time. I did some research and found that the old-time jewelers used desks that were 34 1/2 inches off the floor for this very reason. The "normal" height of a desk is around 31 1/2 inches which is perfect for writing but not necessarily for tying flies. I also added a pull-out work surface which really comes in handy for other types of work like rod building etc.




http://www.theoriginalscrapbox.com/c...mart&Itemid=75

I've included a photo of my desk as well as a link to photo of an armoire type of desk that REALLY looks neat in that it would store a ton of materials and could blend into just about any decor. Just a couple of thoughts. Good luck and please show us what you come up with.

Jim Smith

[Hans]

As for the cats, make sure you can lock the drawers with a digital lock of wich you can change the code every 24 hours.... these critters are very clever and patient....
Cheers,
Hans

[flymaker2]

I adapted an American Workbench for my fly tying needs. I recently colaborated with the owner John and we came up with this design. The height is shorter than standard so that the work surface is as-low-as-possible; and yet allows me to sit under it with my feet flat on the floor. Trying to be somewhat ergonomic here. You can order these any height. Or build one like it if you enjoy DIY projects with woodworking. Mine is going to be mainly just a tying desk and the shelf underneath will hold extra vises. I have a few different vises and want to be able to grab another easily when switching fly sizes/styles.

That small box sitting on the shelf gets mounted to the side of the desk top and has dividers. I ordered two of those boxes and they will hold coatings/liquids and larger tools.

I have other furniture for storage and organization of tying materials and don't know if I'll keep both drilled blocks that John came up with on top of the bench (they are just sitting there and can be moved around); or move one block to a storage surface next to this desk. I mostly wanted a solid yet comfy, warm feeling tying station and this wooden desk gives me a good feeling just looking at the image. Have not taken delivery yet and that is my name on this prototype "American Flytyer" model. You can see more pics of it on his site. I'd like to see him become a sponsor here and I've given him the link. His main biz is workbenches for shops and garages. See the "Flytyers bench" if interested.

[CoachBob]

One thing to consider is what you will see when you look over your desk. Some fly tyers like a cocoon of a tying space while others, like myself, enjoy a nice view over the desk.
A desk with a tall back will provide additional storage and the intimacy of a private area. Many tyers believe that they can produce better flies when they can focus on the fly -- with no distractions from the other side of the room. And if you're desk is against a solid wall, there wouldn't be a view anyway.
A desk with no back allows it to be put infront of a window or facing the television or facing a sitting area. This also allows for flies to be tied by natural light during the day.
No recommendations here. Simply a matter of choice.

My desk came flatpacked from Walmart for $79.

[Buddy Sanders]

Northwoods,

You know how to build stuff already.

Some 'basics' to keep in mind:

There is no such thing as 'too much' when it comes to either storage or tying space. You have six foot wide, two feet deep, and eight feet high. Use it all.

For a tying area, shelves whould get farther apart as you go 'up'. This is backwards from most uses. Allows you to put larger boxes/bulk stored stuff up high, and lets you organize the smaller stuff you need at hand easier. The upper storage can and should stick out from the wall farther than the lower shelves. You need wider/deeper shelving up there for the larger stuff....kitchen wall type cabinets tight to the ceiling are ideal...and the doors keep things looking neat.

At six foot in width, you have space for more than one primary 'work area'. Set up your vise on the left end (given you are a right handed tyer). This will allow you a space to your right where you can do other things without the vise in the way...sort materials, set up an epoxy drying wheel, measure and cut stuff..etc. If you put the primary work space in the center, you'll waste a lot of valuable space...

If you like having a TV or video capability while you tie, build it in at just above head height while you are seated. This lets you glance UPWARDS to see the screen (which, as you get older and need lenses to see to tie with, makes looking over the frames so you can see the screen easier). Either side of your seated position is up to you..don't put it straight in front of you....See a lot of guys tying with a computer next to them...if you intend to do that, leave a spce for it that's convenient for you...

Electricity...lots of stuff needs power now a days. Having plenty at your tying station is nice...if you can run a separate circuit to it with a strip of multiple oputlets it will work well..just remember that electrical needs vary by device...some will get plugged in and stay that way...outlets for them can be towards the back and behind storage areas...some stuff will need power only occasionally so at least a couple of plugs should be easily accessible while you are seated at your tying station.

Anything that's on the primary tying surface should be movable. That 6' long by two feet wide space is precious...don't lock in stuff to only one option on the desk surface....Needs change, you will find that certain tools and stuff that you use today might not be as needed in a few years...don't drill lots of holes, screw things to the table top, or build in lots of rails, racks, and such. You may want all of these things, just make them so that they can be moved around.

The tying/desk surface should be easily washable and a neutral color. Formica, something like that, in a light shade that's not stark white.

Lighting. I've never heard anyone at a fly tying bench complain that they had too much light. Lots of ways to do this, but if your tying area is going to be in permanent location, dedicated lighting is a good option. A six foot length of 'track' style lighting mounted above the bench gives you unlimited options...you can place the light 'cans' where you want them, move them as required, and you can aim them individually...for a six foot desk, four 'cans' with a couple of daylight bulbs and two 150 watt halogen floods will give you full color and plenty of light. If it's too bright, just unscrew a bulb or two....it's still there if you need it.

If you want to cover the clutter normally asociated with a tying desk, you can buy the stuff they use for roll top desks at most woodworkers shops...if you can use a router, it's easy to install....but you need to 'build' for it so there is room for the stuff to move.

Long shallow drawers below the desk surface are great for hackles and other lengthy materials. Make sure you leave room for your feet when building in the drawers...and, make the drawers larger/deeper as you go down...in a six foot space, you can get three 'strips' of drawers..a narrow one on either end and a bit wider one in the middle..more narrow drawers are more useful than a few wide ones..gives you more organizational options.....Build in a drawer directly under where your vise head will be that you can pull all the way out easily...use this to catch debris...when it gets full, pull it out and dump it....easier and neater than one of those bag thingys.

Have fun with your project!

Buddy