Loop

[Jack Hise]

Fly Tyer;
The Castwell Knot (Weavers Bend) works very well with Mono & Thread furled leaders. It's the only leader to line attachment I use.
It goes through the guides nicely also.

[DickM]

Fly Tyer .............
I used to use the whipped loop as per Lefty Kreh but was advised that it would fail with larger saltwater fish.
I now form my own loops if the factory does not provide a welded loop in the line.
Just fold the end over and tie in two eight turn nail knots close together.
It is best to use Gel Spun instead of mono for the nail knots as it really bites into the fly line better.
Then I give the knots an application of Pliobond to make the loops fly through the guides.
Hope this helps,
DickM.

[dudley]

Dick
I've had the whipped loop fail
Stripped the PVC right off the core.
Now I do two whips, very similar to what you do with your double nail knot loop. So far, so good.

Or strip the coating and tie a perfection loop in the flyline core??

....In fact, Fly Tier, that night I ended up tying a perfection loop in the stripped line core so that I could keep fishing. In the dark... no flashlight
It worked fine and I left it that way for the rest of the season.
I wouldn't recommend this though, water will wick into your line tip

[bonefishwhisperer]

I have found it much easier to just tie a leader on the spot...takes under 5 minutes from start to finish...in reality I never change leaders...I do change the tippet section sometimes up to 2 times a day but I am casting a 12ft butt section straight into my tippet on my 10wt and I change tippet after every fish on my 8wt...for me loop to loop connections are useless because of my long leaders that I use...how do you land a fish from a canoe with a 18 to 24ft leader that has a loop in the flyline?...also I when I cast the knots must fly effortlessly as possible thru the guides so loop to loop is out of the question...plus I can tie a nail knot in under a minute with ease

[Bamboozle]

Fly Tyer:

Since I like the welded loops & furled leaders and do change leaders frequently enough to make it worthwhile to do the loop to loop thing; here is what I do when there ISN'T a welded loop:

WARNING, NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART!!

Get yourself some clear 1/8" polyolefin shrink tubing. The THICKER the walls of the tubing the better.

Cut a piece about 1" long and double your fly line forming a loop and slip the shrink tubing over the the loop leaving about 1/4" of the loop exposed.

CAREFULLY shrink the tubing with the heat source of your choice. The heat from the shrink tubing "shrinking" will melt the fly line coating and fuse the coatings of the doubled line together forming a loop.

It WORKS! I've replaced and created loops on quite a few lines this way and so far; they're holding.

I'd love to claim credit for this idea but I heard about it through the grapevine and the credit goes to a Dutch chap named Sepp Fuchs.

Here is a link that describes the process.

[Normand]

heres some fotos for the process described above

http://www.fliegenfischer-forum.de/seppfuch.html

[Capt. Ahab]

I do the same as Dick M/dudley's suggestions. Every other method I have tried either makes the line turn over unnaturally with a hinging effect, or fails. This way you can make sure the knots/loop is tight as can be made with human hands. And if Pliobond isn't your thing, then maybe try out...

http://loonoutdoors.com/products/uvknotsense.html
and
http://loonoutdoors.com/products/uvminilamp.html

[DickM]

Fly Tyer ........
Here are the instructions for the welded loop in English along with some great photos explaining the process.
Good luck,
DickM.

http://www.salmonfishingforum.com/fo...ead.php?t=1536

[Normand]

heres the movie version

http://www.scandicangler.com/?t=1||&mod=article&aID=36711

youll need to open in internet explorer