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Thread: Tying threads

  1. #1
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    Question Tying threads

    I just got some thread from a local dealer, it says its 3/0. Seems to me its just like some other 6/0 I have(Danville) . This 3/0 stuff has no brand marked on it, so I really don't
    know who makes it. Thing is, I was under the impression all along that 3/0 is heavier thread than 6/0. Do I have that backwards?? This 3/0 breaks way easy. I was just tyin up some size 18 midges, and the stuff just kept breakin over and over. at first I thought it was a burr on my bobbin or something, but that ain't it. Maybe it's just lame thread?

    Next question.....Kevlar thread? what's it got to offer for strengths and weaknesses?
    I just got some killer yellow, green,red, & brown deer hair to do a bunch of poppers, and I'm lookin' for good strong thread.

    Then..how about silk? seems like I used it way back years ago a time or two, but I don't remember much about it. I've been using Danville nylon for years now.

    Thanks Fellas......................................ModocD an

  2. #2
    Deezel Guest

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    A group of us are teaching tying and during the first session found that the threads were breaking with very little tension. Like you, we checked the bobbins and they were not the problem. We realized that the 36 spools of thread we bought (1 box each of 3 colors) were junk. We threw them in the garbage.
    Yes, 3/0 is supposed to be double the denier of 6/0. Since you got the thread from a "local dealer" take it back and explain the problem. Oh, I suggest you stay away from the 'kevlar'. Totally unnecessary for probably anything. Might be good for salt water flies but I really can't say. 6/0 is strong enough for almost all applications.

    Deezel

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by modocdan View Post
    I just got some thread from a local dealer, it says its 3/0. Seems to me its just like some other 6/0 I have(Danville) . This 3/0 stuff has no brand marked on it, so I really don't
    know who makes it. Thing is, I was under the impression all along that 3/0 is heavier thread than 6/0. Do I have that backwards?? This 3/0 breaks way easy. I was just tyin up some size 18 midges, and the stuff just kept breakin over and over. at first I thought it was a burr on my bobbin or something, but that ain't it. Maybe it's just lame thread?

    Next question.....Kevlar thread? what's it got to offer for strengths and weaknesses?
    I just got some killer yellow, green,red, & brown deer hair to do a bunch of poppers, and I'm lookin' for good strong thread.

    Then..how about silk? seems like I used it way back years ago a time or two, but I don't remember much about it. I've been using Danville nylon for years now.

    Thanks Fellas......................................ModocD an
    First 3/0 should be larger than 6/0.

    Sometimes I use some mono thread and it seems to be pretty good, but I really have not used it enough to know what I am talking about.

    I really like 140 denier waxed UTC (I don't even know what UTC stands for though), but mostly use Danville 6/0 on flies and 210 denier on jigs since large thread on jigs is fine.

    Looked it up and UTC is Ultra Thread.

    Kevlar is strong for sure, but since I have never tried it someone else should be more helpful on that.

    Hope this helps,

    Skip
    Last edited by Skip48; 02-05-2008 at 07:55 PM.

  4. #4
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    modocdan
    Here in the archives of FAOL is a dandy summary of thread basics. (?)
    Chris Helm said in a workshop I attended a few years ago said do not pay any attention to the designations 8/0 and 6/0 and 3/0 when comparing threads across brands; there is no standard. He rather would have preferred dernier as a more realistic indicator of comparable strength. Sounds like you have some rather weak 3/0 material. Try UNI.

    Kevlar = strong = $$ = stiff =floats. That's about all I know. Great stuff fordeer hair.

    I use Pearsall's for my softhackles 'cause it looks nice and gosamer for rod wrapping for the same reason.

    Mark

  5. #5

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    Another thread that Chris Helms had me try for tying hair is GSP. It is quite strong but no large array of colors as in other threads.
    Steve

  6. #6

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    The ought system -- 3/0, 6/0, 8/0 etc. -- is a marketing thing and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer (kinda like hook sizes.) 6/0 from one manufacturer will be thinner than the same manufacturer's 3/0 but might be the same as an 8/0 from another manufacturer.

    Denier is a textile industry standard. It's the weight, in grams, of 9000 meters of thread. (Just looked it up. Ain't the internet great?) So, one manufacturer's 90d thread should be exactly the same size as another's. Most tying thread manufacturers are listing denier on their products now. I would imagine that the denier is determined before any coatings, like wax, are added to the thread.

  7. #7
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    Welcome nb_ken!

    I purchased a spool of kevlar thread a while back and find it ridiculous. Its way to much for anything I think.

    But keep in mind Im a light thread tyer and love to tie with 17/0.
    Chris
    "There's a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore like an idiot."-Steven Wright
    http://fishiesonthefly.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
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    modocdan I use kelvar thread for spinning deer hair only. Stuff is stronger then any thread out there. Small suggestion: don't pull it tight with your fingers it will cut them. Would I use it for anything else............Well yea if my truck got stuck I could use it as a tow rope LOL.

  9. #9
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    I use Kevlar all the time...but I tie flys to go after Pike with it. I have also used it a few times on Crappie jigs for my friends and found it to work pretty well. The main issue is the cost and the thickness. If you want something delicate, I would stay away from the Kevlar.

    But I am still very much a novice when it comes to flys.

  10. #10
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    Default Kevlar

    Kevlar is STRONG, like wwaaaayy strong. You will bend your vise before it breaks.

    My canoe is kevlar and it bounce off of rocks.

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