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Thread: Laminating and cutting foam - troubleshooting

  1. #1

    Default Laminating and cutting foam - troubleshooting

    I know this might look like some other posts on the topic, but I've searched back a ways and can't find the exact answer to my predicament.
    I have a few sheets of craft foam that I have laminated to use for popper bodies because i like to make things difficult for myself.
    I have the 3m Super 77 and have glued the sheets together, and let sit for about 3 hours.
    I made a test hole and found it wasn't quite dry and a couple layers came apart.
    No problem - I can wait, but I am wondering:
    1. how long as it is not specified on the can
    2. how in the world someone withh a cordless drill is going to punch the darn things.
    I have the hollow punches from Harbor Freight (just opened here in Lincoln), but there is no way the half inch one will fit in the chuck.
    I appreciate any insight into this process.
    -Erik

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Wondervu, CO
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    3M super 77 is a contact adhesive. For a permanent bond you should spray both surfaces, allow them to dry until no longer tacky, then press firmly together for an instant bond.

    If you laminated the layers while the adhesive was wet it will not stick. It might stick after several days of drying if the adhesive in the interior can evaporate enough solvents. The glue deep inside the laminates is sealed in so air-tight by the foam it may never dry.

    I punch my foam plugs using sharpened brass tubes from the hobby shop. The tubes are thin wall brass and come in diameters from 1/8" to 1/2". I cut a 3" section and sharpen the edge with metal file or sandpaper. You can easily push these through the foam using a twisting motion.

    Are you are going to turn these down into popper bodies using the dremel tool and sand paper technique? If so,you might consider just cutting square blanks with a sharp knife, then cutting off the corners for an octagon. This should be close enough to a cylinder shape to allow for sanding.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    I have read somewhere that the person put the punches on a golf ball and used the ball as a handle to punch the foam. Sorry I don't know who to credit for that. If you want to get fancy you could probably find nice wood balls that you can use for handles at a craft store.

    I don't know what your punches are made of, but you can probably bring them to a plmbing supply store and find a reducing coupling to make the larger sizes fit in your chuck.

    As to the glue question, just try every couple of hours until it is dry and then you have your answer for the future.

  4. #4

    Default

    Here's one thread...

    http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/view ... highlight=

    I think I can find another...

  5. #5

    Default

    Here's another...

    http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/view ... c&start=15

    If you have a friend with a metal lathe you can get him to cut the butt down to fit your drill.

  6. #6

    Default

    Try this link:

    [url=http://warmwaterflyfisher.com/tyingtechniques/Foamsandalpopperplugs.htm:aedfd]Making Foam Plugs for the Foam Sandal Popper[/url:aedfd]
    Robert B. McCorquodale

    "Flip a fly"

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kengore
    3M super 77 is a contact adhesive. For a permanent bond you should spray both surfaces, allow them to dry until no longer tacky, then press firmly together for an instant bond.

    If you laminated the layers while the adhesive was wet it will not stick. It might stick after several days of drying if the adhesive in the interior can evaporate enough solvents. The glue deep inside the laminates is sealed in so air-tight by the foam it may never dry.

    I punch my foam plugs using sharpened brass tubes from the hobby shop. The tubes are thin wall brass and come in diameters from 1/8" to 1/2". I cut a 3" section and sharpen the edge with metal file or sandpaper. You can easily push these through the foam using a twisting motion.

    Are you are going to turn these down into popper bodies using the dremel tool and sand paper technique? If so,you might consider just cutting square blanks with a sharp knife, then cutting off the corners for an octagon. This should be close enough to a cylinder shape to allow for sanding.
    Fantastic, see now if the can were a little more clear and I a little quicker, this might have saved me seom time. 12 hours later it does seem to be set up a lot better, no sliding or anything. I am in no hurry so I'll just give it another day or two and see how it goes. In the future though I'll take your advice on spraying both sides.
    I don't currently have a dremel tool, and somehow I like the round plug shape. Perhaps at a later date I will get more creative.

    Flyrodde, I also like the idea of making a handle - I may have to try that on the larger sizes.

    Thanks all,
    Erik

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Upstate, New York
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    If you applied the glue wrong and it won't cure. Try slicing your laminate to strips the width of the plugs you will be punching. It may allow the solvents to evaporate sufficiently so you can save your work. If its a lost cause to begin with, might as well try.

  9. #9

    Default

    Broadwing, I'm using 2 mm craft foam from Hobby Lobby and a waterproof rubber cement from WalMart, but I, too, just bought the hollow punches from Harbor Freight this week. After trying without success to press and twist the punch through the foam, I took it out to my garage workbench, set the laminated foam on a piece of scrap wood, lined up the punch vertically, and whacked it with a hammer. It worked! Next time, I'm going to play with punching them out at a slight angle to give a beveled face to the poppers.

    BTW, I've learned my glued sheets need to dry overnight before cutting them. Good luck, guy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Mooresboro, NC, USA
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    Broadwing,

    To comment on the punches .... I took my biggest four punches from Harbor Freight to a machinist and he turned them down to fit my drill. Seems I either payed him $10 or gave him flies, I can't remember. but, once I got them home, they worked better than I anticipated.

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