Just an FYI.
If you do indeed decide to use a spray on bedliner such as LINE-X make darn sure that you use an acid etching primer before you have it sprayed.
If you do not use it, the liner (urethane based paint) will not properly adhere to the aluminum surface.
Good luck.
Rich
Aluminum canoe
For years I had an aluminum Grumman. It had been wrapped around a rock and then pounded back into shape. There was a small tear in the hull but JB Weld took care of that. For years my young kids knocked the snot out it and I never had a leak.
Paint -- Aluminum does not take paint well. You really need to scrub it down with a 3M green scrubber and maybe a little vinegar. Then Prime with a primer made for aluminum. A lot of fussin but if you don't it is sure to start peeling in a few years.
AgMD
Gluvit
Jec,
These guys carry Gluvit. I swear by it. If you go to their contact site, you may be able to order online. The place is called Skipper Bill's. They're in Spokane Washington.
http://www.skipperbillsinc.com/home.html
This stuff from West Marine might be good to. Lots more affordable than Gluvit.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 74/11160/4
Good luck and,
God Bless,
Now that the subject is being talked about, I have a little 1956 aluminum boat that I would like to paint What kind of primer is best on Aluminum? I have some auto paint to spray on but I think I need to prime it first.
By the way, it is ribbited and the only oplace it leaks ia a little arounf the plugs. They are the original, maybe I should get some new ones.
For most cases of a leaky rivet, you can tighten the rivet back up. Have a buddy hold a trailer hitch ball against the rivet inside the boat and give it a couple of solid hits with a hammer on the outside of the boat. This should swell the rivet into the hole and prevent further leakage. Note- Don't over-do it with the hammer. You could compound the problem if the rivet should split. Only a couple of hits should be needed.
As far as sealing a leak, the JB Weld could work as long as you get it well into the leak. It might also be prone to fail eventually as it's only a surface repair. There should be good/better sealants available at local marine suppliers.
As for paint, the preferred primer for aluminum would be zinc chromate. I'm not sure where you could get it, but in the USAF we used it in a spray can or 2 part mix. If you can't find it I would suggest asking your local marine dealer what they could recommend. Remember, use the best primer for the type of paint you'll be using.
Hope this will help.
Jesus still hangs out with fishermen.
You guys made me feel better with your old boats, because mine is supposed to be a 1957 Ouachita. Thats what the revenue office says it is, but I'm not sure how they came up with that. The serial number on the boat is a serial number issued by my state that they give out to either homemade boats, boats in which the serial number has been lost or for boats that didn't have a serial number. I haven't been able to find any pics to compare it too. What I like about it is that it is shaped like the old timey wooden jon boats that they used on float trips before aluminum boats became popular.. The guy I bought it from has already sanded it down and primered it(said it had about 20 coats of paint on it), but in hard to get places it looks like it was originally a bluish green, more blue than the common olive drab they put on them today. I'd like to try to paint it as close to that as possible, but with a flat type of paint. I don't want it to look too good where I have to start worrying about scratches. If not that color, I'm going to just use the flat olive drab, then I can always touch it up with spray paint. I'm not sure what kind of primer the previous owner used, but it looks like its sticking pretty well. I'll rough it up with the sos pad, then add a little more primer. I'm going to first wash it with a good degreaser, and then with vineger. Thanks.!!!!!
First clean the aluminum surface to remove all dirt, old paint and oxide from the surface. Apply a coat of acid etch primer following the mixing and application instructions to the letter. Within 24 hours of applying the etch primer, apply the topcoat finish. This will be an automotive grade or marine grade polyurethane coating. Use a good quality product to protect all the prep time and elbow grease you invested prior to the topcoat application. You can go to the West Marine website and just about any No Mix poyurethane paint will hold up for you. I have pained quite a few small and large boats in my day and if you don't want to spray (these are thick paints) I would reccomend rolling and back brush on the paint. This can give a very nice smooth finish, just take your time and do your prep work. Plan on doing the painting all in one step. Do not use two coats, one will do. Make sure you do it at tempatures as indicated on the paint can. Use a good quality brush, light nap roller. Plan on throwing all away when you are completed. Good luck
If you don't mind me asking, would you explain the above a little? Do you mean apply the paint with a roller and than lightly brush it as you go?Originally Posted by Jonezee
Has anyone ever applied that paint that is usually gray with white and black specks in it. How do you apply that? Would be for the inside of the boat.
Shortleader. The technique is called Roller & Back Brush. It is mostly used on fiberglass or wooden boats (or whatever) to apply Epoxy or Polyurathane paint. I have done aluminum and acheive the same results. You roll the paint on and then in long even strokes brush (wide brush) the paint in one direction only. Usually towards you. Once you perfect this style it is hard to tell it wasn't sprayed on. You get a beautiful glossy smooth finish. The paint you are talking about (with the specks in it) to my understanding is sprayed on. I think the formula was invented to cover rough uneven surfaces and still give a decent coat and finish. I have not used it.
Thanks for the info, Jonezee. I'm going to give it a try.
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