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the pictures don't lie, one of you told me to save my first Gordon', and so i did, i didn't wait five years.....maybe 2 months... lol but i think im getting a little better at these... practice does make.... better lol, still needs improvement!
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any suggestions on how to make peacock quill less brittle?
just thought i'd share,
spoof
PS. don't know why but for some reason i love tying this guy, i would say its my favorite(to tie).... for now
I put quills and biots in a damp paper towel for a few minutes before I tie them in; if you haven't tried that it may help. Also, how the quill is stripped can effect it; bleach burning can make them a bit brittle if not done properly; using an eraser is more time-consuming but a bit safer.
Regards,
Scott
thanks, i will have to try that.... and i use an eraser, i try not to use cemicals for anything, call me odd, but i kinda prefer to use as much natural materials as i can, with the exception of scud backs, and a little d ribbing now and again, i avoid rubber and foam.
personal preference i guess....
thanks for the input,
spoof
By the way, I like the splayed tail on the right fly; it will sure help the fly float. Very nice work.
Regards,
Scott
You are certainly improving, proportions much better.
As Scott says wetting the quills before tying will make them softer. They are the same material as your finger nails. They get soft when soaked in water...
Also holding the quill in hackle pliers makes things easier. I like to use a pair with BOTH a spring and swivel for the job. They stop twist and jerking. They are hard to find though. You'll easily find one of these features, but not both. There is a cheat you can use though. Get a fine rubber band (size 12 is ideal) and tie it to your hackle pliers. When you wind the quill hold on to the rubber band. It will cushion the quill while you wind it.
Cheers,
A.
every time i try to use hackle pliers on peacock quills i break the quill at the body, i always end up wrapping the body with my fingers, i get tighter segments, and less twisting... i figure it would be easier to use em', at least then i would be able to see what im doing.... lol
i never looked at a quill as being finger nail material... makes sense...
thanks,
spoof
PS. this is why i like talking to u guys, not only do you guys share knowledge on issues im having (big or small!) you help to give a better understanding of how or why.... i wish there were more people in this world that share the same traits, so when i say thanks guys.... i mean it lol
Seems to be working for you. I got away from peacock quills a while ago and switched to biots:Quote:
Originally Posted by spoof85
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...n/IMG_9094.jpg
I guess the fly is no longer a Quill Gordon (Biot Gordon?), actually this is more a biot-bodied Adams but the effect is the same and the fish don't care. Best biots I've found that are close to peacock come from Canada goose primary feathers. If you don't like the pronounced ribbing effect, turn the biot over; you still get the segmentation.
Regards,
Scott
Scott,
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who uses a spot of dubbing in front of the hackle on flies like that.
Cheers,
C.
Good looking fly, spoof.
I'll second Scott's recommendation to soak quills and biots before trying to tie them in. I just keep a folded over wet paper towel on the desk when I am going to use biots and put a few more than I will need in the fold before I start tying. The extras are there because even when soaked, biots can be a bit fragile, at least at the tip end.
Another tip on biots, for caddis patterns. Caddis abdomens have a taper from wider at the rear to narrower at the front. It's easier, and more realistic, to tie in the butt of the biot and wrap forward than to tie in the biot by the tip. Less chance of breaking it, too.
John
I find that wetting quill with hair conditiioner really helps me a lot. But getting used to how much tension to apply is still the real test. Wetting quill or not