rebuilding rod

Problem, just completed my second rod and it looks great, but it just don't feel right. Rod #1 feels and cast great but realy looks bad compared to Rod #2. Rod #1 was built on a $65 blank and Rod #2 on a discount blank, I had a realy difficult time on Rod #2 finding the spine, the tip section had two humps about 30 deg apart.
My question, how difficult is it to stip down rod #1, I will need to remove the cork grip also since I would like to upgrade it.Or since it works well should I leave it as is instead rish damaging it?

In my opinion, it is not worth the price of a new $65 blank to go through all that trouble and risk damage. Especially if your happy with the way it fishes.

What I mean is just buy another blank and start over with the upgraded cork and seat.

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Joe




[This message has been edited by flyfisherjoe (edited 08 June 2005).]

After shipping and customs duties and taxes the $65 blank cost $185, would that make a difference in your opinion.

It is time comsuming, but not real hard to get the guides off. I would not try to get the handle and reelseat off. You run a good chance of damaging them and the rod. If you want to try removing the handle, etc, go find an oldie at a garage sale or a broken one and have a go to see what is involved. Allyn

Well nseereeram, that does make it a harder decision. Didn't see where you are from.

I once removed a seat by submerging into water that had been brought to a boil, then turned off, and soaking it for about 10 min. It softened the glue and I was able to slide it off. There was still a gummy mess left but I was able to clean it up enough to put on the new one.

I think, if possible, try Arkriver's suggestion about practicing on an old one first.

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Joe


[This message has been edited by flyfisherjoe (edited 09 June 2005).]

[This message has been edited by flyfisherjoe (edited 09 June 2005).]

I just removed a reel seat by heating it really well with a hair dryer. Dont know if age of adhesive is a factor. Didn't try the grip. I like the idea of trying on an old or cheap rod first.

got the guides removed, now the gummy mess what chemical should I use I understand Acetone may damage the blank and Alcohol is not working?
P.S. working on an old practice rod now.will try the boiling method approach, if it does not work will try a small electric saw since the masking tape spacers should protect the blank will still have the problem or removing the epoxy but if its on very good and hard may elect to leave and use it as the spacer. what do you think?

[This message has been edited by nseereeram (edited 10 June 2005).]

To get the epox left after you have the guides removed, try heating then with a hair dryer, and just use you fingernail to work it off. Do not use a knife or something hard and sharp because one slip and you have a damaged blank. Work slow with heat and fingernails Allyn