Components for high mod fast action 5 wt

Hi, I'm new here but I've learned a bunch, built my first Forecast rod (3 wt)from HOOK & Hackle and just ordered a 5 wt FT blank from Dan Craft.

I was pleased with the components that came with the forecast rod and planned on ordering a similar component kit from H&H with the exception of relplacing the guides with titanium single foots. (unless there is a better way to go that is cost effecient)

All I want is a very servicable plane-jane outfit that works good-

Any suggestions on component upgrades that would be absolutely neccesary to keep it light and effecient? I'm not against upgrading the components if they will make a difference. I dont want to put junk on this nice blank, but I don't need much in the way of asthetics - just interested in performance- I went with the high mod because its a reputed far-caster and I like to cast far. Any recomendations and opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

you may want to consider the recoil guides from REC. They are standard on the Winston BIIx and I have used them on several graphites just because they maintain their shape regardless of what you put them through. they are significantly lighter too which is always a plus. As far as other upgrades check out REC for their reel seats, and cork as well. big fan of theirs and use a lot of their stuff.

LD

I built a rod using Dan Craft Five Rivers Blank -- and just love it. I used components he recommended but oversized the guides.

Good luck-- hope you like the rod as much as I like mine.

Thanks fellas, thats just the kind of info I need -

Another way to phraze the question would be...

Is there anything you would absolutely steer away from - is there any absolute junk out there that I will really regret having used, say, five years from now?

whats the bottom line? - seems to me there are so many choices the newcommers like me are overwhelmed - And we make a big deal out of stuff that really doesnt' matter - if its all a matter of "personal preferance" - I'd just as soon go cheap and practical so I can build more rods- thats my personal preference, unless of course, I find something that truley enhances performance and durability.

feel free to pm me if need be

thanks!

This was also very helpful advice from a longtime rod builder...

Cork quality is directly proportional to cost and the best cork is not available as pre-turned grips, it is only available as individual cork rings that you have to turn into a grip either on the blank (my preference) or on a threaded rod or mandrel. However, poor quality cork is not going to effect the preformance of the finished rod, just remember to fill in the rather large pits of the lower quality corks with a cork dust and glue mixture.

In guides, avoid unplated snake guides because they will never hold up. In fact, unplated snake guides will begin to groove within a year or two. As to which coatings, platings, brands, single foot, or double foot are better, that is entirely up to you. If you want to use single foot ceramic or SIC guides instead of snakes or the REC REcoil guides, go right ahead, they just cost more. For strippers, either ceramic or SIC, frame color your choice. For tip tops, again it is entirely your choice, traditional fly loop top, ceramic or SIC, or REC REcoil all work well.

If you are looking to get the most bang for your buck, use cheap pre-formed cork grips, chrome plated snakes, hardaloy stripper, loop tip top, and Fuji or Pac Bay graphite reel seat. This will give you a serviceable, although not the prettiest, good casting rod that will preform very close to one made with SIC strippers and the snake guides with the harder platings on them at a lot lower cost.

Remember two of the easiest places to save money when building a rod yourself are the reel seat (the Fuji and Pac Bay graphite ones are typically around $5.00 or so (instead of the $25.00-$50.00 for the top-of-the-line nickel silver with wood insert ones) and through using hardaloy instead of SIC strippers.

Me, I prefer to use top quaility cork, SIC strippers, snakes and reel seats; but if cosmetics don't matter to you, they are not necessary.

I went with alconite single foot guides and got a fairly big tip top so I can reel knots and bobbers and loops through if neccessary.

Did not go with a real fancy real seat or handle - I went with middle of the road stuff - and next time will probobly go even a little lower end on the reel seat, but might turn my own handles eventually -

Would also be fun to try out the various recoil and snake etc guides for experimentaion- when not doing that, I'll just go cheap as long as it functions well, because even the inexpensive stuff seems to have very decent quality and from what I've learned, in my over analyzation of this stuff, as long as it isn't plastic and whatever guides you use have at least a hard chrome coating - and you have maybe one ceramic stripper. None of it really matters all that much. Its mostly personal prefferance. Hope this helps some overwhelmed beginner in the future.

Another spot we find to be VERY subject to line wear is the tip top. We always use one of those insert tops (which we have yet to change one out due to wear), instead of the wire top.
....lee s.

Take a look at REC reel seats.We have used them on the few rods we have built and was really satisfied with them.We have used Hopkins and Holloway guides.Also REC is a sponsor here.