Signature on a graphite rod?

I am in the process of building another rod. In the past I have used a gold leaf pen that has a fairly wide tip. It covered nice ,but I'm not happy with the result. I bought another pen that has a finer tip(ballpoint I think) but it skips when practicing on a scrap blank ( it writes well on paper). Do you scuff up the blank lightly first? Do you clean the blank with something prior to signing? Do you coat the fianl signature with rod finish at the end? I'm probably a week away from this step,but would like input. Thank you

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"Illegitimus nil Carborundum"

I use a 'gel' pen (stationary store) and very slightlty scuffed the area with a scotch bright pad. This ink is not permanent on it's own so I over coated coated it with rod finish as well.

You could also use a white ink and a artist's nib pen.

Be careful depending on what finish and ink you are using. Test it on your scrap first. With my pen, I have to give it a light coat of Krylon Krystal Klear before I put on finish, or the ink dissolves and ruins everything in the area.
I almost never use the pen anymore, though. I get decals at Decal Connection printed to order. The look really nice and professional. Sorry to plug a non-sponsor, but they do a great job and their service is outstanding as well.



[This message has been edited by ol' blue (edited 04 April 2006).]

If you want to save a few bucks and you have a printer at home, a Hobby Lobby or Hobby shop nearby, try these, they work great...just make sure your printer cartridge is not about out of ink like it was on the last label on the page for me...I use these all the time and can make what I want....
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...8decals002.jpg
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...9decals003.jpg

dleo - Do you use an injet printer, or do you have a laser? A couple books I've read say you shouldn't use an inkjet, but I don't know why...

After spending a couple hundred dollars on rod blank, reel seat, cork handle, guides, and other stuff. Your going to risk all your loving detailing on the rod, to your hand that has never had the best penmanship?

I use [url=http://www.decalconnection.com:bf3d4]Decal Connection[/url:bf3d4] for all my rod markings, they even have ferrule mark decals. ~Parnelli

ameyers41 - there are decal papers that are made for both types of papers. I have an inkjet printer and if you use the correct decal paper it works fine. If you go this route, you will need to get a spray lacquor to over spray the decal after it is printed, no matter which printer or paper that you use. Otherwise, when the varnish goes on you have a mess.

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/...Farland020.jpg

parnelli is 100% correct... with MY penmanship it would look crazy. Decal connection sells the papers, pre-printed decals and all sorts of labeling items, located in Clarksville TN too!!

[This message has been edited by dleo6446 (edited 08 April 2006).]

[This message has been edited by dleo6446 (edited 08 April 2006).]

Please see my post in Sound off for a pat on the back. I found an 800 # for Batson and called the company.I talked to Cary Batson himself. I don't want a decal because it's too perfect. I'm flawed, my build is flawed, but it's mine.When applying the first coat of finish coat the area very lightly. This will put down a base that will provide enough traction for the gel pen. Over coat with one more coat after completly dry. I'm very happy with the result.

It's done. What do you think?

http://www.myfishingpictures.com/img/093592.jpg

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"Illegitimus nil Carborundum"

[This message has been edited by Coach Robb (edited 10 April 2006).]

[This message has been edited by Coach Robb (edited 10 April 2006).]

[This message has been edited by Coach Robb (edited 10 April 2006).]

Looks nice Coach...I think it is pretty cool that Batson told you what needed to be done to make the gel pen work..it is really neat when a manufacturer takes the time to go though a process with an end user. That gold looks good on there too!
ld