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So I have my new vise but it didn't come with directions. I think I can figure it out but I want to utilize it to it's full extent. Any help with some links or suggested reading would be great. Thanks
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[url=http://dryfly.argodesignstudio.com:805cf]http://dryfly.argodesignstudio.com[/url:805cf]
a good introduction to rotary techniques...
[url=http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/rotate/:3054c]http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/rotate/[/url:3054c]
mgj
One thing to add to those instructions. If you are using the bobbin holder, tie a half hitch or two on the fly before doing the rotation.
Oldfrat learn to hook it on the eye of the hook -- much faster then the half-hitch
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Bill
I wrote this for "Tying Tips" awhile back, I hope this helps to explain things....
What Does a Rotary Vise Really Do?
By Steven H. McGarthwaite
Rotary Vises are not some magic slicer, dicer, or with special attachment make julienne fries. It is a vise, which rotates a hook shank on the hook shanks axis. A Rotary Vise has a knob to lock the vise head so it will not rotate. So if you don't want the hook to rotate for a certain part of the tying it will remain stationary. When your start tying on a rotary vise, it is the same as a stationary vise.
From the lock wrap to secure the thread, the tying in of a wing (dry fly), dressing the hook shank with thread, or securing the tail hackle it is still the same as a stationary vise. What makes a difference between a rotary and stationary vise is when you start going back toward the eye of the hook with the thread. It allows for the laying of a dubbing loop, ribbing, tinsel body, floss, or collar hackle without having to fight a bobbin hanging beneath the hook.
Instead the thread is palmered forward, and half hitch behind the eye, and the bobbin is hung out of the way, on a bobbin hanger. The while holding the dubbing loop, ribbing, tinsel body, floss or collar hackle in one position you rotate the hook and spin the material onto the hook shank with a constant tension and more uniformed and controlled wraps.
If you are adding a beard or other material beneath the hook shank, instead of working underneath the hook, you just rotate the hook over and work on top, where it is easier to position and properly secure the beard or other material.
You don't have to remove the hook from the vise to turn the fly over.
I will not claim it will speed up your production, but it sure makes tying a lot easier. I also think it improves tying efforts by eliminating fighting with a bobbin hanging beneath the hook, which is in the way when you are trying to wrap some material onto the hook shank.
A Rotary Vise will not make those 20 extra pounds you are carrying around magically disappear, or make you teeth whiter, or cause your hair to become thicker and more manageable. It only allows you more accurate control of the material that you apply to the hook shank as you turn a bare hook into a piece of art.
My personal opinion, Rotary Vises are well worth the money. ~ Parnelli
[This message has been edited by Steven H. McGarthwaite (edited 25 January 2006).]
Thanks for the help... I guess I just need to jump in and give it a try. It all makes sense but I just need to get used to doing things a little different. I think it will be better in the long run though.
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[url=http://dryfly.argodesignstudio.com:0ebad]http://dryfly.argodesignstudio.com[/url:0ebad]
Al Beatty has a very good video on it...sponsor here....there's one on ebay...
William,
I to hook the thread in the eye,or in the gap of it....for some picky tiers this is a big No no.....as it can and sometimes does.
Fray the thread...
Oldfrat just might be amung that crowd...Either way will work fine...Just wanted to show reasons as to why he may have posted his remarks... http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/wink.gif