CAn I use Gorilla glue to glue the handle and real seat to the blank?
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CAn I use Gorilla glue to glue the handle and real seat to the blank?
It should hold the components on just fine. The problem is when you go to remove or reposition the grip and seat. Two part epoxy, that is made for rod building, will soften when heat is applied - you'll be able to remove the components if you want to reuse them.
So if you just want a strong permanent bond, the Gorilla glue should work. If you're concerned about the ability to move or remove the parts in the future, stick with the two part epoxy. Hope that helps.
Ron
I would not use G.Glue to do what you want. G.Glue will expand and in the case of the cork could possibly buldge it. I use G.glue to glue cork rings together to make a grip and the expansion is more than you'd think, but in the case of making the grip that can be wiped off using Denutured Alcohol. I'd recommend Devon 2 ton epoxy which is what I use.
One further note: Devcon can be submerged in hot water and will break free. G.Glue is imperviuos to water and will not. I refrence this to the above post stating "if you ever want to remove the assembly"...........Ed
I haven't used Gorilla Glue for the reason stated above. Myself, I prefer to use epoxy designed for rod building. My epoxy of choice is Rod Bond. It has a long working time, and is a paste so its easier to keep things clean and not worry about epoxy running everywhere you don't want it.
Pfishermanfred. First welcome to the FAOL board. My experience with Gorilla Glue has been bad due to expansion. It sort of "grows" during the curing process. Also has to sit a lot longer than most 2 part epoxys. My pennys worth.Jim
Gorilla Glue is an absolute mess ... it runs everywhere, expands like a runaway corporation, stains EVERYTHING in a most permanent fashion, etc. To make matters worse, you MUST wear a high-end respiration device to sand the stuff - the dust is highly TOXIC.
I strongly suggest using a product designed/modified and tested for rod building purposes. Rod Bond is a very good choice and works extremely well. It is the friendliest product on the market due to the paste like consistency.
Another option is Titebond II ... not III, but II. It holds well, cleans up with water and doesn't stain or have toxicity issues. I suggest it ONLY if someone just can't stand the thought of making the purchase of Rod Bond through a component supplier. Titebond II can be purchased at the local hardware store.
TJ -
I think with Gorilla Glue you are stuck. I think there even was a thread on here about someone who used G. Glue to mount his reel seat. Then discovered it was opposite the guides. He asked for help on how to remove it. The advice given was that other glues can be heated up and removed. G. Glue cannot. Therefore...his advice was GET OUT THE SAW and saw it off! In other words if you are that confident you will never make a mistake......