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Hi All,
I have been scouring the internet looking for an anchor system for my creek co odc sport pontoon boat. The one that I found is out of order indefinitely, so I was wondering if anyone who has a homemade anchor system might be willing to post a few pictures of it for me so I can get a good idea of what it might entail for me to build my own.
I'm really wanting to float a few rivers this year and would dearly love to have some sort of anchor system to use when I need it.
Thanks,
TT.
The anchor system that came on my daughters pontoon boat seemed to bind some and the drag chains was hard to pull up, so I modified it myself. After the modification it worked perfectly and pulled up smoothly.
I went to the hardware store and bought small pulleys that would fit the diameter rope we were using. I bought a couple pulleys that were fixed and a couple that would swivel, and the appropriate sized stainless bolts and lock nuts.
Photo's attached below for visual aide:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Pulleys003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Pulleys002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Pulleys001.jpg
Hope this helps you some.
I have also been looking for an anchor. What I have decided on was about five lbs of logging chain.
Darrin,
Thank you sooooo much, just seeing that has given me a plethora of ideas already. I really appreciate you taking the time to post those.
TT.
You are welcome!
I had to mod my system on a 3 man pontoon:
http://sites.google.com/site/fishingthestemargueriteproject/Home/new-for-2009/outlaw-review
or
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/articles/reviews/product/2009/product_reviews20091221.php
Scroll down to the modifications section and you'll see mine.
Good luck!
Thanks Chris! A few more good ideas. I really like how you attached the pulley to the eye bolt, probably wouldn't have thought of that, lol.
TT.
I do not have any specifc anchor system designs for you, but would like to suggest a few important thoughts:
An anchor is a great safety device and also a great hazard. Make sure that the anchor cannot be inadvertently released when going through a rapids or down a slide. A good system is one that pulls the anchor completely out of the water when up so it cannot catch on anything in the water. Also, never tie the anchor line end to the boat. It is better that the anchor and line are lost versus pulling your craft under the water.
Best anchor design depends on the river bottom. Small, compact Pyramid Anchors work very well on river bottoms of smaller rocks and gravel. Big rocks on the river bottom can eat Pyramids that can not be unstuck. Spike Anchors work best where the river bottom has bigger or irregular rocks. Links to my home made Spike are-- http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/IMGP0293.jpg and http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/IMGP0294.jpg
I use both a Pyramid or a Spike---depending on the stream.
Max,
Thanks for the links. Having had some experience in rivers, I am aware that the end should never be secured to the boat. I've rigged something up, but haven't had the chance to use my toon yet to see how well it'll work. I'm hoping to be able to take it out this next weekend to see how it'll do in a reserviour before I put in on a river. The fishing on the Missouri is supposed to be getting pretty good, so I imagine I'll be headed down that way in the next few weeks to put it to a real test.
TT.
Speaking of the MO---I usually use a Spike Anchor when putting in just below Holter Dam. Some big, deep rocks in the first half mile to gobble up a Pyramid.
When putting in at Wolf Creek Bridge or below I go with the Pyramid.
I really prefer the Pyramid when the river bottom permits because it is compact, easier to handle, and actually holds a little better.
Good to know, thanks!
TT
I only use my pontoon boat on lakes, I figure the rivers are for drift boats and rigid framed rafts. I have two mushroom style lead anchors, each attached to 30 feet of parachute cord. I have tied loops in the cord every 5 feet. On my pontoon boat, I have clipped two small spring loaded carabineers. I release one of my anchors at a 45 degree angle to the rear and when it hits bottom I slide the boat over in the other direction, then release the other anchor. I place the boat in the center of the two anchors and clip the nearest loop onto the carabineers. Works like a champ and really holds even in the very stron eastern WA winds.
Larry ---sagefisher---
Thanks for this Idea Larry.
I'm going to try it out this summer. I too only toon in lakes and your idea is perfect. Two anchors is definately the way to go. Keeps you always facing the same direction. It can be a bit of a pain when the fish wraps itself around the line once in a while but I guess I just have to live with that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagefisher
If you fish rivers with current, you should give a drag chain a try.
I've been floating rivers for years now and have tried about every type anchor I can think of. I now only use drag chains for rivers. I've lost river anchors, mushroom anchors and spike-type anchors that became hopelessly wedged and stuck in rock crevices. Having to reach as far down as possible and cut your anchor rope and have to finish your float trip, being unable to stop and fish good runs, is a major let-down. I routinely fish some high-gradient rivers with current in between rapids, and the river bottoms are more like boulder gardens, and I've yet to get a drag chain setup stuck that I could not get loose and continue my trip. Plus, depending on the depth, I can let just enough anchor rope out that the chains are barely touching bottom and it slows my drift to the point I can control my speed going downriver. Of course never drop the chains in rapids or too-fast water! I personally know a guy who had a spike-type anchor puncture one of his tubes. He had a little too much rope out the back of his boat and he dropped over a ledge and the anchor started swinging until it made contact with his tube and popped it! Not good news when you're on a full-day float trip and you're only 1/2 way through. Personally, I would avoid an anchor with sharp spikes or bolts protruding from it. Not a good combination with inflatable boats. Just my $0.02.
Larry, there are several manufacturers that make high-quality, whitewater rated and worthy pontoon boats. They are not just for still waters anymore. The WW rated boats are generally not cheap, but if you like float-fishing rivers, there are boats out there that are very river-worthy...as worthy of the river as any framed raft or drift boat.
I'd be inclined to heed Darrin's advise. I have fished with the man and he knows pontoons like few others.
Darrin! Maybe the FB will get right in a week or 2. We got to go! Looking forward to it.
Heck, we might even let Clay join us in his new Coosa! Bet he turtles in less than an hour. I know, I am one mean individual.
Let's go, Derek! I'm ready when you are.
I hope Clay keeps that boat upright. I had trouble with it, I hope he does better than I did!
Gnu Bee Flyer,
The mushroom anchors I use I bought in Hope, BC. I was on a fishing trip and realized I had left my anchors at home so I stopped at a sporting goods store in Hope to buy my fishing license. When I looked for anchors they had some made by the Gibbs company. I knew right then that they were intended for me since that is my last name. :)
Have fun out on the water. I am heading for Montana this morning to do two days of fishing from a guided drift boat on the Clark Fork River.
Larry ---sagefisher---
For the ones that have frameless Scaddens, Scotty has the answer. I actually sometimes use two. One also goes in front. I use the same setup on my X5.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/IMG_6376.jpg
Chains work very well as anchors, and are easy to add or take weight off as needed.
However, aren't you guys a bit concerned about the adverse effects on the river bottom, insects, etc. of dragging chains on the bottom to slow your drift?
No. Not really, John. I've been using chains for a couple years so I can say with experience...they really do no more harm than a wade fisherman's boot tracks, or a limb rolling down river after being blown in by wind. I do not leave my chains bare like Mojo's photo above. My chains are either inside rubber (bicycle inner tube) or coated with 3-4 layers of duct tape. I also use much larger link, 3/8", about 18 inches long, and only use 4 sections. They will slow my drift or if I let enough anchor rope out, stop me completely.