Has anybody used this for coating the wraps? I want to get a thin layer of "varnish" on the wraps on my fiberglass fly rod. How does the permagloss look and perform? Thanks
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Has anybody used this for coating the wraps? I want to get a thin layer of "varnish" on the wraps on my fiberglass fly rod. How does the permagloss look and perform? Thanks
Used a lot of this years ago and a little lately for fiberglass rods I have done. If you are looking for a finish that will not be thick and something you can add more then one coat use this stuff. It holds up as well as a lot of 2 part finish and has a nice shine to it. I have no problem using it and plan on using it on my next personnal rod. I have one customer that that is all they want for a finish. Make sure you use a clean soft brush when applying the finish. don't thin it and you will be fine. Just my 2 cents
Be sure to read up on how to store this stuff - can't let any air get to it. I got some and didn't use it for a while and when I opened the bottle for the first time it was dried up.
I got a sample of a new product called "lumiSeal" from www.fishstick.us .
there are way less fumes and it still does a great job, just like Perma gloss.
No connection to the supplier but I thought i'd throw out info on a new product.
You dont HAVE TO use a product as Perma Gloss to get a thin coating on wraps. You can use some of the "Lite" finishes and make SURE you do a good "wipe" on the first coat to REMOVE some/ most/ etc of the first coats finish. A THIN application of a second coat will alow a nice thin finish.
i've used a lot of u-40---id apply it with my finger with many thin coats---it worked well and was very durable and ive had it dry up in the bottle---an alternative is spar varnish enough coats to fill the gaps in the wraps and without the bubble effect that you get with flex-coat
I started off using Permagloss, and I've never seen the need to use a different product. 4 coats looks the best to me. You don't need to completely fill in the thread texture to get a durable finish.
The instructions on the label are not entirely correct. I recommend letting the first coat dry overnight. It takes longer to dry than later coats, because it soaks into the threads. Reapplying too soon will cause some nasty bubbles as the solvent escapes. Later coats only need to dry for an hour.
Also, I don't recommend using a high quality artist brush. They soak up too much finish. They are hard to clean even with the U40 brush cleaner. The disposable Flexcoat brushes work better for me.
I've used permagloss and it is easy to use, dries fast and doesn't build up. I think it was originally intended for bamboo. will work on glass or graphite but again -- doesn't build up.
I tried it on a graphite rod and did not like the fact that it did not build up. I wanted more definition to the wrap. So, I simply went over it with threadmaster epoxy and it looks fine.
As mentioned above, you need to keep air out of the bottle to keep it from setting up -- I just drop a lot of cheap beads into the bottle for displacement to keep it full and minimize the air
Take one of the small metal containers like varnish or stain comes in. Insert a small eye screw (picture / mirror hanger type) near the bottom of the can. Pour the permagloss into the can and seal. When needed, un-screw the the eye to dispense what you need and replace the eye. Any air in the can will attack the top of the solution first. As this skims over, it seals the remainder of the liquid from attack and vastly increases storage life.
Very easy to use finish. Extremely durable. Moisture causes the solvent release, so cure accelerates in humid climates. As stated in above posts, give the first coat time to lose all the solvent to avoid any bubbles in subsequent coats. Outgasing of the solvent generates very strong fumes. Ventilated area advisable. Not a high gloss finish, more of an eggshell type IMHO. My choice for certain build applications - another tool in the ole tool kit.
Thanks I think I'm going to use this stuff.