Got some hot info on photography for the pixel minded fly flingers out there. Post them up here.
REE
Printable View
Got some hot info on photography for the pixel minded fly flingers out there. Post them up here.
REE
Here's the substance of a PM I have sent to a number of BB members to get them started on posting pix. Seems like it works for most people.
Anyway, I'm assuming you have or are agreeable to opening an account on www.photobucket.com ??
After you log in to photobucket, you will get a screen to upload photos from your computer ( or other sources, if that is what you want to use ). After you upload your pic, you will be given the option to name it and save it to your album. After you have saved it, go to the album where it is located.
Two ways to prepare to post the image. If you put the cursor over the pic, a menu will drop down showing four lines ( options ). The last ( fourth ) option will be the IMG code. Simply click on that line and it will show "copied." If, instead, you click on the pic that will enlarge it. On the screen with the enlarged pic, to the right of the pic there will be the same menu with the four lines. Simply click on the fourth line, the IMG code and it will show "copied."
Now go to your "new thread" or "reply" where you want to include the pic. Put the cursor where you want the pic to appear. RIGHT click and then paste. At that point, you will see the script of the IMG code in your post.
I always preview a post before submitting it to make sure that I have the right pic and that it is where I want it in the thread.
John
P.S. Ron - Thanks for putting up the sticky as the possibility of a Forum is considered. My only concern is that it will become too long and diverse, and therefore cumbersome, at some point.
Thanks for that John, big help to me
No tips just a picture..........................
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...tionsign-5.jpg
Didn't feel like fishing the last day of steelhead season so I took the camera out.
A few shots of some early morning hunters.......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...gshoot-122.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...gshoot-184.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...gshoot-267.jpg
WOW, WOW, and WOW!
And they do remind me of a tip that occurred to me last week after we went for a ride and saw golden eagles, bald eagles, red tail hawks, turkeys, quail, and any number of other birds and fowl.
Don't forget the camera !!
Glad you didn't forget yours, and that you took the time to post the pics here.
Thanks.
John
Wow, Kerry, those are top notch. I got some waterfowl that i snapped the other day, I'll have to throw them up here. how long a lens are you using?
Cold,
I was using a Sigma 150 - 500mm lens at 500mm on a Nikon D90 for all shots. Eagle was 1/500 sec. at f/6.3, ISO 200. Heron - 1/250 sec. at f/6.3, ISO 400. Hawks - 1/1000 sec at f/6.3, ISO 400.
All shots were done handheld. The optic stabilization mechanism of the Sigma lens is very good. In computer developement work done with Lightroom 3.3.
Kerry,
I'm thinking that those last two look like Northern Harriers. Any thoughts on that?
REE
Thanks, Kerry. I've heard great things about that lens, and as a Sigma owner, I agree their OS is pretty good. Looks like that one is sharp right out to 500mm. :)
Test: This just a test to see if I can remember how...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1-R1-18-3A.jpg
Yep works, thanks for the thread and the re tip John...;)
I had forgotten how, been so long since I posted a pic.
Nice one, Grubb. I used to visit a stream like that when I was a kid.
REE
Last fall I damaged one of my very favorite lenses. It was a Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro Telephoto Zoom for Pentax/Samsung like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-70-300mm.../dp/B000B8T6E2
This was my go to lens for long range shooting or really neat macro photography. Fortunately I had purchased the extended warranty through SquareTrade Warrant. Somewhere along the way the lens received some type of shock sufficient to break loose and aperture blade. I believe I bumped into a tree, rather hard, while hiking as the lens had bark on the barrel.
Well the folks at SquareTrade were great! They had me return ship the lens at their expense via UPS. Within 5 days they deposited the entire amount I paid for the lens into my paypal account. They really worked hard and fast to make my experience a good one all of this a year after the initial purchase. Can't say enough good about SquareTrade and I now buy all of my extended warranties through them.
Back to the lens. These lenses are available for Pentax between about $125-$200 dollars. I think I paid $145 for my new lens. Don't let the lower price or the fact that this lens is not an APO lens fool you because this baby is on a par and in some ways even better than my more expensive Pentax lenses. The Sigma shows very little, if any, purple fringing, provides sharp clear photos, fast quiet auto focus and a 200-300mm macro focus that actually works quiet well. The only draw back to this lens is that it does require a good deal of light and the length of the barrel with attached hood can interfere with the camera on-board flash when at the 30mm length. Easily cured by an inexpensive hot shoe or external flash.
Okay enough blah-blah. Here are a few shots with this lens. Click on the thumb nails for larger views:
Attachment 7445
Attachment 7448
Attachment 7446
Attachment 7449
I used ACDSEE Photo Manager 10 and except for the last shot there was very little PP work done. Transferring photos to a website drives me nuts because so much of the quality is lost. Oh well.:D
Nighthawk,
Got any 100% crops from images from that lens? Any macro work? I've got the Nikkor 70-300 VR and while I fully admit that its me, not the lens, I've been very hit-or-miss with it. When it's sharp, its beautiful, but there's been no rhyme or reason that I can find that determines how I'm getting a great shot compared to a sort-of-okay shot.
Here are a few images for you. Click the photos for larger views. Very little PP on these:
Attachment 7451 Attachment 7454 Attachment 7455
Attachment 7452 Attachment 7453
couple of crops but no what I would call real macro work yet with this one. I am hoping to do that this spring once we get my back taken care of. these were shot on a windy day last spring with the first lens. the bridge and flower from a tripod cable remote control. the hen malard from a mono pod without shake reduction. matter of fact using a pod of any kind automatically disengages the shake reduction on the K-10D.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/i...isc/pencil.png
Not sure it it'll let me do this, but here's a good shot from my Nikkor:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_6...2/DSC_1917.JPG
Cold,
Very nice shot. Nikon and Pentax just cannot be beat for their rich colors and contrast. Love the bokeh with that lens. silky smooth but not overpowering.
I was looking at my lens late yesterday and saw something funky about the circular polarizer I have on that Sigma 70-300 macro. Yep sure enough it is hazed. That would explain some of the soft issues I am having. It is a Hoya filter so they should replace it free of charge. One other thing you touched on in another post is the internal shake reduction that Pentax uses. While it does do a good job, makes the lenses much cheaper, it can also cause the photo to be a bit soft in lower light conditions. The folks on the Pentax forums board say to either use a flash or drop an f stop to slightly over expose the shot. The shake reduction is good for about two stops. the shot of the bridge sign is from a tripod with a remote shutter release, no shake reduction. The duck was from a mono pod without shake reduction. the shots of the new structure being built in the lake are hand held with shake reduction.
I shoot everything in RAW although the K-10D allows you to shoot in both RAW and JPEG simultaneously. I am also using Adobe RGB instead of sRBG setting in my camera's manual menu. The problem I found there is while Adobe lets the camera use a wider range of color not all PP programs accept Adobe RGB so it has to convert over to sRGB.
Which RGB setting do you use? I should say that my preferred shooting mode is Manual. Probably because I learned to shoot on a Pentax K-1000 that I still have.
Nice picture Cold.
Can't go wrong with shots of dogs.
Another day on the river. Can't fish but I can't stay away.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...onriver-65.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...onriver-90.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nriver-115.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nriver-118.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nriver-107.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...onriver-56.jpg
neat camera trick
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fj6fM...1&feature=fvwp
... the digital camera / computer software thing.
Early this morning I shot some pix of elk out back of the house. The camera is a Canon Rebel Xsi EOS 450. The pix were taken hand held in very low light conditions at full telephoto ( 250mm ).
The image when first transferred to "My Pictures" on the PC, using an Adobe program, looked like this :
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...o/IMG_0381.jpg
After applying "Auto Fix", it looked like this :
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...381_edited.jpg
The "fixed" image is not all that great, but considering the conditions, it turned out better than I expected.
John
Here product I set my brother up with. http://www.eye.fi/how-it-works/basics It is a great way to download your pictures to your computer without having to remove your memory card or use a wired connection. It's and SD card with built in WIFI. My brother loves it.
John, I'm glad you were satisfied with your results this time, and that IS a very nice shot, but if you'd like to improve upon it, next time, I have a few small suggestions that may help.
1) Don't hand-hold. Whether you decide to use a tripod, or simply find a flat surface, immobilizing your camera will enable you to shoot at the slow shutter speeds essential for low-light.
2) High ISO. While you don't want to crank it too high, the noise (multi-colored 'dust' most noticeable in dark areas) in your auto-fixed image is highly visible, about what I'd expect from your Rebel sensor cranked up into the 3200+ neighborhood (if it gets that high). I try not to shoot with my D80 higher than ISO 800. This goes hand in hand with #1 because when you immobilize the camera, you can use a slower shutter, which, by extension, also allows you to lower the ISO and improve overall image quality.
Shooting that image at 250mm, immobilized, with ISO set at 800 or 1600...with a sensible aperture somewhere around 5.6, I'm thinking that you'd have no problems shooting even as slow as 1/60 or 1/30. It might still give you a very dark image, but depending on what software you're using, shoot in RAW and bump the EV in post-processing.
... but I didn't want to lose the opportunity for some pix by going in to get the tripod. Those elk move in and out of cover quite quickly so it was more a matter of getting something than getting nothing.
Speaking of cold, the Rebel did okay this afternoon at 8F with windchill down to -7F. I guess the trick is getting out of the car and getting it done quickly.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...396_edited.jpg
John
P.S. I haven't done much photography the past few years, other than to provide visuals for my fishing reports. Thinking I will be doing more this year. Got a lot to brush up on, including how to best use the Canon in different situations and for different effects.
My 2 best tricks:
1) Use a tripod;
2) Always have a camera on you! I keep a waterproof in the vest, a "better" digital in the kit bag and the DSLR in a pellican case on the beach oo strapped to the boat.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_L...0/DSC_4962.JPG
Some photo opportuities don't hang around too long!
... of elk in the back yard when it is snowing, don't forget the "flash off" setting, if you have one.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...399_edited.jpg
Then again, the snow does make for a neat effect.
John
Playing around with a cheap lighting setup for shooting flies and such. Two 10 inch metal reflectors cost about 8 bucks each and 2 5000k, 100 watt fluorescent bulbs about 6 bucks each.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/cutfly-5.jpg
Some shots taken at a local fly only lake, no motors allowed. I like the different types of craft used to fish from. There were many more types of crafts but I think you get the idea with these.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sslake-184.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sslake-170.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sslake-147.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...sslake-138.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...asslake-85.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...asslake-60.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...asslake-36.jpg
All shots were taken with a Nikon D90, Sigma 150-500mm, Flashpoint tripod w/Vanguard ball head, and a remote shutter release.
I don't have a problem with outdoor pictures, but I have a hard time getting the right colors to show up when I am taking pictures of flies. I don't know what I am doing wrong, but the true colors just never seem to come out.
I have a Polaroid i733 7.0 Megapixel Digital Camera. I set it up on a tripod about 8 feet from my vice (If I go closer, the picture is never as sharp), have the Macro on, and the camera set to 'Auto' settings. I use a 2-second delay on the shutter (to avoid vibrations from me pushing the button). The lighting is the room overhead light, and sometimes, my tying lamp, aimed at the ceiling (if I aim it at the fly, it makes a very bright glare on top of it). If I use a flash, it makes a weird shadow behind the fly on the wall, and causes too much glare, especially on materials like Krystal Flash, etc...
After taking the picture, I load it into Microsoft Digital Image, crop it and allow the program to automatically adjust color, exposure and contrast, Then I post it on Photobucket. It's all I know how to do.
You might try putting the camera into manuel mode, use the same apeture and shutter setting the camera picked when in macro mode and play with the white balance settings. I am not familiar with that camera but I know that different white balance settings will create different color casts.
I'll give it a shot and see what happens.
Although I've done the photobucket thing, I'm surprised that someone hasn't come up with a way
to "Attach" photos ala email. Sure would cut out the "Monkey motion".
SweetS
Although I've used the photobucket method, I'm surprised that someone hasn't
come up with a way to "Attach" ala email.
SweetS
... for sure. Never would be able to plan for this one.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...043_edited.jpg
John