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Rod Finishing ?????
It's been a while, but I am still building my first rod....a 7-0 3wt built on an F.E. Thomas taper....
here is my question
I tipped and applied my first coat of MOW spar...I've been turning by hand...how long do you suggest...I hand turn it.
How many coats should I apply before dealing with tag ends?
BTW the gold tipping was the ticket...with the MOW the gold went translucent and contrasts the blank nicely.
casey
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Varnish
Sounds like it is gonna be a nice rod!
For the threads, I usually apply the first coats of MOW cut 50/50. I put it on with a dubbing needle, and gently massage it in. The first few coats are so thin that there is no buildup on the threads only IN the threads. I probably don't need to turn at this point but I have a turner -- so I do.
The next coats are only 10% turpentine and there is some "wet " build up. These need to be turned. I leave it on the motor for an hour or so, probably overkill, but it is on the motor so why not.
Here is a thought. Throw a few wraps on a dowel. Varnish them with the rod and turn them by hand also. After a while you want to see if it is dry enough, test touch the wrap on the dowel. Fingerprints won't matter.
AgMD
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rod finishing
There's no real need to turn the rod after you varnish the wraps, just put it on evenly in thin coats and let it sit in the stand over nite. I don't own a rod turner and I've made 65 bamboo rods and refinished several dozen others and they came out fine without turning.
john
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varnish
jchanner, You are almost certainly right on about this. But you see i have this rod turner that I built --- Probably a classic case of the guy with a hammer, thinking that all problems are nails.
AgMD
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I agree with John, turn the rod when you are varnishing the wraps. Just hang it when varnishing the rod.
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Thanks...like you I've heard mixed reports....well I hand turned the rod while finishing the wraps. I then continued to turn 1/4 to 1/3 turn every 5 mins for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. I then let it dry overnight guides down, just in case.
when is a good time to deal with the tag ends and fuzzies. Again, I using MOW spar...I would think just before I apply my final coat? suggestions.
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Pull your tags just under the first 2 turns , then cut them and pull them completely under, don't pull them thru or you just make unnecessary work. If you already have them sticking out, then shave them with a fresh razor blade after the second coat, then apply more coats as needed to completely bury the thread. Let the last coat cure for at least 2 days, longer is better, then sand them flat with 1200 grit wet/dry wrapped around a small sanding block being VERY CAREFULL!!!! not to sand thru to the thread. I can't stress this enough, if you hit the thread you will make an odd spot that won't finish right. Then dip the rod as many times as it takes to get the finish you want, let each coat dry for at least 3 days before you sand it, don't pay any attention to what the can says about sanding the next day, the varnish will just ball up under the sand paper and make a mess out of all your hard work.
john
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thanks...I won't be dipping, rod is semi-impregnated...applied a third coat will nip tomorrow...should I sand or wait until the next to last coat?
Also, is there any harm in waiting days in between coats...I may not be able to apply anymore finish until after christmas???
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Hey John,
How do you "pull it under" after you've trimmed the tagged end?
C13- The longer you wait for the varnish to cure the better before any sanding as it does "ball up" if it is still not cured.
Quinn
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What I have found that works is a little different than what John has stated, will have to try that one sometime.
What I do for tag ends is what was recommended to me several years ago and it works like a charm. When i first start the wrap, I will make 5 to 8 wraps at the start, then pull the starting tag up beside the foot of the guide and trim it very closely using a blade used in a matt cutter from the picture framing business. At the end of the wrap I slide my tag loop in when I have about 8 to 10 wraps left to make. At the end of the wrap I pull my tag loop through and then grab the tag end (about 4 to 5 inches) pull it really tight but not tight enough to break it and once again trim very very closely with that matt blade. Then I burnish with a polished stone and 99 times out of 100 I won't have an exposed tag end to worry with in finishing. Works like a charm and eliminates those ugly little sharp points in the finish.
cholcomb13, there is not harm in waiting a few days to apply coats. One caution, some finishes will have to be roughed up a tad for the follow up or touch up coats to be applied...read the label of your varnish or finish coat.
Hey John, something you may want to give a shot, works pretty well for me, is to wet sand instead of dry sanding! It really does a much nicer job and the varnish I am using accepts it really well after 24 hours in the drying cabinet..I usually use a 2500 grit and would gladly use 3000 or higher if it wasn't so expensive and hard to source