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Noticed this crack in the epoxy of my 8'6 redington today. Something to worry about, or just a scratch (so to speak)?
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Eventually the guide will probably come loose, but that could be a long ways down the road. It's up to you whether you want to fix it now or wait until it actually comes free.
Why not send the picture to Redington this winter? If they want to do a repair you can send the rod in now and not lose any fishing time. The pictures came up with no problems this time.
Send it to Redington. Looks like a warranty issue and will only get worse before it gets better. Maybe you'll get it back before spring.
I checked the Redington site, and unfortunately the crosswater series only has a 1-year warranty that covers defects in materials and workmanship.
Might browse for a new rod, just incase this one breaks. And if I want a new crosswater, they're on sale for 40$.
It's a simple repair. Some one local should be able to do it for you for a lot less than that. Post on the rodbuilding forum and I would guess that someone near you can helpQuote:
Originally Posted by Panfisha
I have had cracks appear in the finish on spinning, casting, fly rods, including some that cost a lot more than the Crosswater rod. I have made temporary repairs by sealing the crack with guide wrap finish or epoxy. Some of these "temporary" fixes have lasted years. Eventually the guide will loosen. The finish can be carefully removed and the guide re-wrapped and finished. As rainbowchaser suggested maybe someone local can fix it for you if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.
Good excuse to pick out a beautiful agate stripping guide for that nice rod.
A good fix which we use commonly in the guitar building industry is a substance called Jet. Pretty much Zap-a-Gap, it's kinda like a super-duper glue, it got its beginning as liquid stitches.
All you have to do is put a little dab on a surface that won't absorb it and won't spill it, we use the bottom side of an inverted Dixie cup. Take care not to spill this stuff, because there is no gettin' it out of, say clothes or carpet. Then get an X-acto blade, touch the tip of the blade into the "glue" then poke/fill the crack. Should turn clear when the stuff gets into that crack. Then "kick" (spray) the stuff with the accelerant really lightly or it will turn white and bubble up as this is a chemical reaction. Repeat the processes until filled completely. Take care as fumes can be irritable and don't get in eyes, or then you become known as a Jet-eye. A nickname for a friend who experienced this.
You should have a really solid fix that will withstand many years, that will setup a lot faster then epoxies. There are many different uses for this material as a bonding agent, but it doesn't like to stick to everything. Just be cautious with stuff as it bonds skin to skin well, or skin to what ever. Don't be afraid of this material just respect as you would with other glues and epoxies.
A lot of words for a good quick fix for a variety of things, say reel seats, or beer cans to bench tops. Used it for that, but its bigger brother "Super Jet." It comes in three forms Super, Slow and Fast. Zap-a-Gap is Fast Jet so it kicks off alot quicker then Super and Slow jet, but will work a great deal better on a smaller "field wounds" just don't kick it as it gasses off at a couple hundred degrees, but it only stings for a few seconds.
Good luck!