Is an 81/2 rod easier on your hand casting than a 9 foot of the same mf.

My friend has developed arthritis and asked me that question but I have no idea what the answer is. Would someone have any idea and maybe what the variables are ? Shorter are usually faster but would that make a difference. Thanks for any thoughts.

Deepcreek,

Personally, I find that I have to work harder with the shorter rod. Also some 9 footers may actually be lighter which I would think would be a factor. Of course, the longer the rod the wider the arc which could put more pressure at the fulcrum (wrist)? Other than my opinion, which is not based on medical fact, I really don't know. Perhaps a chiropractor or someone in sports medicine could answer this definitively. Anything I do medically involves a lot of pain and duct tape. Sorry!

Best regards, Dave S. (fishdog54)

For casting, I don't think there's that much of a difference between an 8'6" and a 9 footer. When you get into the shorter, 7'6"-7' range, then there's a difference...but I don't know if it will help with arthritis. I would think that a lighter rod (overall weight and swing weight) would be the ticket... or duct tape. lol.

It might be worth while trying a different style of grip if the arthritis is in his hand or wrist. This is especially true if he is currently using a cigar type grip. I don't think that six inches shorter will make much difference in a graphite rod.

I would think that force on an artheritic hand equals pain. Does for me anyway. Therefore the lower the force, the less the pain. That would hint at the lightest rod possible (and reel too) and the softest rod possible. The obvious way to go is towards lighter weight ratings i.e use a 4 wt instead of a 6 and so forth. But going down in rod and line rating will bring along the obvious limitations so lets talk about a fixed rod weight - say six wt.

Six weights will come in a number of types. Manufacturers will refer to them as fast vs relaxed or maybe even tip flex vs full flex. Bottom line is some are stiffer than others. When making a cast of a given distance with a stiffer vs a softer rod, a caster will automatically adjust his rod arc to get the same casting distance with each. This is because he is trying to put the same energy into the line regardless of the rod. Energy delivered to the line is equal to the work put into it or essentially the force on the line times the length of the casting stroke. On the softer rod, the force would be less and the distance greater vs a shorter stroke and a higher force on the stiffer one. Ergo, less hand force on the softer rod over a greater distance.

Now all of the above is a lot of glittering generalities but I think directionally it is correct. But be careful. Manytimes the lower material modulus sometimes used in the graphite on the slower rods will yeild a higher overall rod weight offsetting the lower force used to accelerate the line. In order to really understand it all you need to learn about the actual design of flyrods. The Technology of Fly Rods: An In-Depth Look at the Design of the Modern Fly Rod, Its History and Its Role in Fly Fishing by Don Phillips is a good place to start or how about some articles I wrote a long time ago on http://www.hatofmichigan.org/e-book.html in the Mechanics of casting downloads. Or maybe Bill Hanneman's stuff on "Common Cents" (google same).

But for sure, use the lowest rod weight rating and the lightest rod actual weight and the lightest reel and the softest action that you can get away with for your type of fishing. The light rod and reel is very important because the most violent action comes in the stop rather than the actual cast. Probably stay away from bamboo and glass because they tend to be a little heavier than graphite rods. (I'll bet this last statement draws some fire.)

Just my $.02.

Godspeed and remember to treat those artheritic hands with liberal doses of alcohol from the inside.

Bob

From a guy who is coming up for an arthritic joint replacement, the answer would be NO . what matters is a balanced rod that feels, light in hand. Grip size also matters as joints become painful and swell . I use a 3m product called TRANSPORE tape it breathes, in my case i tape my index finger to the middle finger. Duct tape in a pinch. tell him good luck

One quick suggestion, would trying a new grip (hand grip, not cork grip) make any difference? For example, is he casting with his thumb on top of the cork grip? He might want to try the three point grip - http://fishfliesandwater.com/casting...ee-point-grip/

One other more radical suggestion, if it really comes down to him thinking about not fishing any more, he may want to try a Tenkara rod. They are very light in hand, and I find the casting stroke to be slightly different than that used in casting a rod and reel. It's a very gentle movement that may not cause as much stress. If he'd like to give that a try, have him contact me and I can work something out with him to take a test spin.

In any case, hope he finds a workable solution.

The ergonomic on lots if not most fly rod grips are backwards. A full wells grip is better for gripping the way the hand is made. The index and middle fingers are better for control; the ring and little fingers have great gripping power. (Squeeze your index finger with the the index and middle and then the ring and little fingers to see the difference.)

You might want to consider the casting technique, video your friend and compare it to a pro to be sure the hand is not being used too much.

No expertise here but simple physics makes me believe all things being equal, a longer rod means more weight further away from your wrist and subsequently more compensation required to achieve balance.

I have a few matched rods; an 8'6" 5wt and the same rod in a 9'0" 5wt. The same goes for an 7'6", 8'0" and 8'6" 5wt. In all cases the longer rods SEEM to me to be more tiring to use all day when I am casting the same distances and doing the same type of fishing.

YMMV

Longer is slower and therefore easier on the user one would have to think... Keeping the outfit to a med light, say 4-5 or even a 6 weight would be best to I'd think as ya actually have to work harder with lighter gear to cast heaiver flies..So unless your planning to go all out dry/wet fly only it's best to be a bit over than under in most cases.. My opinion in a nutshell..