Split-thread softhackle SBS

Another way to use those big feathers for soft hackles.


tied here on a basic Pheasant Tail

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psb67c2c0e.jpg


this feather would be perfect for a #8 but I'm interested in something more like a #18

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psdbd86176.jpg



insert the barbs in clip (extend about shank length); Petijean's is a nice tool, and makes it easy to show the process in photos, but any clip will do the job

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ff60eee.jpg



trim the butt ends close, but leave enough to grab with the thread

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55aa77ee.jpg



split thread (UTC 70 used here)

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psad36f6bf.jpg


insert clip

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps516beb11.jpg



slide thread down till it captures the barbs and release clip

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9a5f62f9.jpg



spin bobbin to lock in feather barbs

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps77b3bc9b.jpg



wet fingers, stroke fibers back while wrapping "hackle"

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps471a998a.jpg



half hitch, SHHAN

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6cab9729.jpg


Craig Mathews http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbZlVPsKv9M has put together excellent instructions using oversize feathers, but for the life of me, I can't spin one like Mathews. Using the split-thread really doesn't take much longer and I've found it produces consistent results for me; YMMV.

Regards,
Scott

Sorry Scott, and this is solely a matter of personal aesthetics, but I don't care for the look of the butt ends of cut hackle as a collar. If someone wants or needs to use 'oversize' fibers for a collar then simply cut them from the stem, measure to the length you wish to use, grasp them at the tie in point, wind the thread and then maneuver the fibers around the shank as the thread is tightened. Even if a 'split thread' method is used, the butts of the feather should be cut as close to the thread as possible.
But just to let you know, I appreciate all of your SBSs. Always well done and described.

Allan,

Thank you for your honest opinion and criticism; I realize this technique isn't for everyone and your method certainly produces excellent results, in the right hands (not mine, apparently). Also, cutting the butts closer would certainly make for a neater appearance; I don't mind the stubs and I don't know if the fish care, but a person should be happy with the fly they're tying/using.

Regards,
Scott

Thanks for this.... I found it very helpful! I need to get some of the Pettijean clips.

scottp,

thanks for another way to skin the cat. i would think the barbule butt ends , as short as they are might add a little bulk and buggieness to the head of the nymph.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ScottP

Allan,

Thank you for your honest opinion and criticism; I realize this technique isn't for everyone and your method certainly produces excellent results, in the right hands (not mine, apparently). Also, cutting the butts closer would certainly make for a neater appearance; I don't mind the stubs and I don't know if the fish care, but a person should be happy with the fly they're tying/using.

Regards,
Scott

---

Scott,

Appreciate and thank you for your SBSs and your reaction to my comment. It was solely from a personal viewpoint. I completely agree that the fish are the final arbiters and that "a person should be happy with the fly they're tying/using." Anyway, looking forward to your next set of sequential tying instructions.

Allan

For me, I usually learn something from every post I read but there was something extra this time. It was so nice to hear polite, considerate and open opinion and response. It makes me feel good to enjoy an activity with a group of true sportsmen. Just say'n.

Scott,

Check out this method:

http://flyanglersonline.com/flytying...030308fotw.php

Allen uses one other method for small hooks, it is called the "compensated collar hackle"...it is in his book...


PT/TB

PT,

I have Allen's excellent book, and have tried this method (similar to Walter's), but can't seem to get consistent distribution; like I said, more of an issue with my inability. Thanks for the link.


Regards,
Scott

Scott,
I truly appreciate the time you put into sharing your SBS patterns. You always have very useful information. It was very refreshing to hear polite, considerate and open opinion along with response without getting worked up. FAOL has a long tradition of people sharing and learning ideas and that continues tonight. Good stuff. Thanks again for all the patterns you have shared of late.

greenwing,

Let me be the first to welcome you to FAOL from Tennesee! You have joined the best group of sharing people you will ever come across! Welcome....

What Warren said..........except from Oregon

Despite tying an awful lot of partridge hackled flies I've never gone through more than 1 skin a year, or had to resort to any of the techniques mentioned here. The last one I bought cost 20 UKP ($35 ish) in November. That makes them much cheaper than dry fly hackles. Yet I see a lot of talk on how to do this for game bird hackles, but not for dry fly hackles. It makes me wonder if wet fly fisherman are tighter than those who fish the dry?
Cheers,
A.

I've used Charlies method with good results although I do have a Hun skin with the head intact and many of little hackles are nearly too small....

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/fly...m?parentID=155

Jeremy.

i use the same method as desribed on charlies fly box, but i find the hackle splays around the hook shank much easier if i trim the butt end from the hackle before tightening the first two loose wraps.

This one with an aftershaft (pheasant)


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7258720.jpg




http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps893ef458.jpg




insert feather in split thread


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psceae6675.jpg




try to capture it close to quill


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2abd7f69.jpg




trim quill side away


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2ecb96a.jpg




spin bobbin to trap fibers


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8f4b39dd.jpg




wet fingers, stroke fibers back


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psca0cb965.jpg




http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...psba3c3902.jpg




although fibers are a bit matted here, they get real buggy in the water


http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...pse46b94a4.jpg


Nice thing about the aftershaft feathers is they work just as well on even smaller hooks. This one's a #16, but I can go down to a #22 scud hook easily; just a matter of adjusting how far they protrude.


Regards,
Scott