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2 wt 6/6 rod
i'm gona build one just to see if i like it from a kit (H&H about $40.00)
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BB 662 blank Pacific Bay A5 chrome reel seat with rosewood insert, Reverse Half Wells inletted grip, hard chrome plated chrome guide set, hookkeeper and tip top, winding check. Dark Blue Thread.
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I'd like to know what type of reel seats / attachments were used before the screw base ones now available.
I can use a wood lathe and the handle /seat area as one piece is a snap to turn but how to attach the reel is an enigma. I can use the seat supplied in the kit but i'm a litte hard headed and like the unique touch in my stuff (like making flyboxes, etc). I'm considering getting single foot line guides also to replace the snakes in the kit.
any info from the guys who know how ?
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Just finished building two of them, and fished them last week. They are absolutely super little rods! I built them from the kits, to see what the kits were like, and was very pleased. Changed the reel seat on Cary's, and the thread color on both, because I could! Lots of fun! Will definately build more of H&H's rods!
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Trouts don't live in ugly places
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Oops...sorry, I forgot about your reel seat question. Turn your wood to the exact measurements of the supplied one (the insert), and just use it (the turned one) in the supplied ones place. That's just one of the joys of building your own rods! They're unique.
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Trouts don't live in ugly places
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what type of line are you using??
I mean to turn the entire handle section out of wood, probably walnut or cherry. I suspect that i'll be using sliding rings to hold the reel. I may have to make a cork reel seat to get the ring to hold.
any expert info???
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Right now I'm using a 2# Cabela's line...on a Battenkill reel. (Rod: $33 Line: $29 Reel: $98 HA! ) Cary likes the 3# Rio on his.
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Trouts don't live in ugly places
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
it has the inletted grip with a "tongue" to hold the upper reel foot, a sliding metal band to hold the bottom reel foot, and an end cap. after turning the reel seat on the lathe, carve out a small flat area on one side of the reel seat to "cradle" the reel feet.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
is the inletted grip with a tongue a routed out zone in the shape of the reel foot or is is just a flat area for the foot of the reel to rest on so that it doesn't rotatea around ??
How does this rod work with a two wt line>thanks
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zzdruid;
My 6' 6" 2 wgt. from H&H does not have a "flat" spot on the reel seat. The forward Shoe(?) that holds the reel Foot(?) is epoxied in place, just make sure it aligns with the spline.
The wood seat it's self was pretty loose and took a lot of masking tape to get a nice fit! If you turn your own you can tighten up the I. D. for a closer fit.
Just a thought. I have a Gold wrap at the winding check then a green and then an orange, sort of a signature!!
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I feel more like I do now than I did when I got here!
Cactus AKA "Lucky Dog (Pirate Name)"
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Thanks, I see what you mean.
I made two mock ups to see how my reel foot might work on a ring seat set up. I have an older Pfeluger (sp?) with an arched reel foot . It is also rounded, sort of a section of a tube which is arched. Making this foot seat well will ot be a simple as the type foot you have on your Orvis. I may have to make an insert to glue onto the reel seat tomatch the curves on my reel foot.
Thank you for your help. Great looking seat,very simple and elegant.
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The rod is together and all I lack is the varnish/epoxy on the wraps. The assemby went well but making a cork bushing for the reel seat was tedious. I used the fiberglass drywall tape for the upper bushing and the cork for the lower. The drywall tape worked well but next time I'd tie it down with a few thread wraps before adding the epoxy and slidding on the seat.
Of course they supplied a two part epoxy but a guy's poston another forum concerning spar varnish interested me. I made this one to be a fishing tool: plain black wraps, black guides, black U3 Pac Bay set ( std stuff i'll experiment next rod). In keeping with this the no fuss / low sheen, varnish sounds good. I'm a woodguy so I understand this finishing product.
Does it require any thinning to get good penetration of the wraps?
I also assume that the multiple thin coats do not require turning the rod as it dries.
Normall I lightly sand between varnish coats but this seems like a bad idea here, any advise?
Any need to try to work varnish or superglue under the single foot guides.
How about the cork, anyone add an oil finish to this area such as Tung or linseed?
I'll put up some pics when its all done...
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zz;
I use 1 part hardener, 1 part epoxy and 1 part thinner for the wrap epoxy (got that mix here).
I believe that the varnish will be thinner than the epoxy any way. Practce on a wrap on a piece of dowel.
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I feel more like I do now than I did when I got here!
Cactus AKA "Lucky Dog (Pirate Name)"
