I have never used a furled leader, what are the benefits of a furled leader? I have been using the store bought leaders for over 20yrs and never thought there has to be a better way. So whats it all about?
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I have never used a furled leader, what are the benefits of a furled leader? I have been using the store bought leaders for over 20yrs and never thought there has to be a better way. So whats it all about?
A furled leader is long lasting using a loop to loop connection for the tippet. A furled leader will last a season or more.
They have little to no memory, no "Slinky" on the end of your fly line.
A furled leader can be cast just like a fly line allowing the use of longer tippets.
Excelent presentation.
There's much more and I'm sure otheres will be chiming in.
Well Said, John. I agree with you wholeheartedly.
I use a furled leader for my dry fly fishing that is made from Flourocarbon. Much like the others, it is very durable, turns over the fly every time regardless of how bad the rest of my cast was, and best of all no memory. Now unlike John's furled leader, mine is a bit stiffer than uni-thread.
I have used it for nymphing, but like John, not my preference. I use a leader roughly the length of my rod. My 7'6" 3wt, I use a 6' leader. On my 9' 6wt, I use a 9' leader. For a dry-dropper or dry-dry combo, it is hands down the best thing for me since sliced bread. I get so many less tangles with it for some reason. I usually attach 2-5' of tippet, depending on where and my plans for fishing on the day. Tippet matched to the size of the fly by the standard divide by 4 means (ie. size 16 fly goes onto 4x tippet).
Unlike John, I don't make my own. I have no idea how to make them! If I could find a source for a threaded furl leader, I'd probably buy from them just to try it out.
One furled leader lasted me all last season, and so far going strong this season with no wear.
Paul
Hi John, A great write-up but I'm anxious to know what the "annoying" things are. Thanks/
I have built my own Knotted Tapered Leaders, in the early years of my fly fishing. Later I move on to Commercial Made Tapered Leaders. Both of these Tapered Furled Leaders where lacking in one thing, uniformity of continuous taper from the butt end to the tip end of the leader.
Knotted Tapered Leaders had the knots that attract algae when casting.
The Commercial Nylon Tapered Leaders have a Butt section that is 60% of the total length, then they cram all the other segments into 20% of the leader, finishing off with the tip section being the final 20%.
I have written on furled taper leaders on this Bulletin Board, and have written articles on FAOL about, my "Big Furled Leader Formula". Furled Leaders can be any percentage of taper, 50%...53%...57%...60%.
The furled leader can be 7?-5?-3?, 6?-4?-2? or what ever loop sequence you wish. The thread can be of any diameter, weight or material.
You can use any color of thread, or combination of two colors, to match the color of the water your fishing.
You can dip your finished furled leader in a can of warmed varnish, wish will help seal the threads tightly together, and give the finished furled leader a backbone to help the cast.
You will need to build a furled leader board the look like a 9 foot long cribbage board, with just the hole positions you need for a the loop sequence and length you wish to build.
I am willing to mail anyone who is interested in furled leaders a PDF Version of my "Big Furled Leader Formula's. These are my calculations in three tapers (50%, 55%,60%), in three lengths (6 ft, 7? ft, 9 ft), These calculations are done in both Metric (centimeter) and English (inches) for the peg positions on the furled leader board.
I cover all costs of the "Big Furled Leader Formula CD" and the cost of postage anywhere in the world...
contact me at my email address: parnelli@comcast.net
~Parnelli :D
Annoying Things are mostly your failure to take up building your own Tapered Furled Leaders, earlier.
I created the "Big Furled Leader Formula" that eliminates the hinge effect in the non-uniform tapered furled leaders formulas of others. I offer my Free "Big Furled Leader Formula CD" (PDF) at no cost of the CD or mailing to anyone, any where in the world.
To get this free CD, contact me at my email address:parnelli@comcast.net
I also offer all FAOL Fly Patterns that have run on FAOL over the past 14 years, as a CD (PDF) again at no cost for the CD or mailing.
~Parnelli :D
I have fished the thread leader you mailed me for a couple of years now. I put it on my 3 wt. which I use mostly for fishing dry flies and a droppers rigs. The fact the leader hangs in the film do not hinder the fly in anyway to the best of my observation. I do not consider myself a furled leader fanatic but mysteriously all of my rods now seem to have some version of the same on them, some badly done I should note. But even the badly done versions work pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnScott
You can dip your finished furled leader in a can of warmed varnish, wish will help seal the threads tightly together, and give the finished furled leader a backbone to help the cast.
~Parnelli :D
[/QUOTE]
You can also add 'backbone' by furling to 20-25% reduction. Such reduction produces a much tighter twist which results in making the leader stiffer. The degree of increase of stiffness seems to also be a function of the diameter, or tensile strength, of the material being used. With heavier, or greater tensile strength, materials; beyond about 22% reduction tends to produce leaders that can be too stiff; having lost their suppleness. For example, I use polyester threads that are equivalent to UNI 3/0, 6/0, and 8/0. I limit my reduction to 20% for the 3/0, and to 22% for the 6/0 and 8/0, and retain a desirable suppleness for my fishing (LMB and 'bream').
If you want to stiffen a thread leader, just add one strand(1 down and back) of 2# test mono to the leader before furling. Works like a charm.
Brad
Brad;
That is such a simple solution to a very common problem. Does that really stiffen it up? How did you gather the data to prove this was the answer?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Hise
Jack,
Because I tried Viagra, and it not work ;) .
Really, I just thought through the problem. Mono is stiffer than thread. I thought I would try just one pass of mono, and it worked great! I have tried the varnish route(several brands) and it its messy to apply and takes a while to dry. In general, it was a PITA. Adding the mono adds about 2 minutes to the furling time, and it works....why try to re-invent nthe wheel??
Brad
I'm with Brad (aka kaboom) on this one. I add a single strand of mono through my leaders to help give them a little more umph. works well with the larger flies as well. Also as to what age sage says is true as well. The mono mixed with my ultra fine thread helps make the leader a bit stronger at the tip end as well. Kinda like adding a strand of braided line for extra strong leaders. For ultra fine dries though nothing beats a straight thread leader in presentation. Can't find a knotted or traditional leader that does it as nice as a furled thread leader!
Cheers,
Brandon
To elaborate on my earlier post (#13), as I fish almost exclusively today for large mouth bass and 'bream' in weed/'stickup' infested waters and use deer hair and balsa/cork bodied popping bugs up to 1/0, I definitely prefer a slightly stiff leader. I also prefer 6ft leaders for my fishing. After much 'playing around', I finally settled on Guetermann "Sew All" thread. It is a polyester, and is equivalent to UNI 3/0 in both it's diameter and tensile strength; plus, it is availabel at al JoAnn's Fabrics and Craft stores. I can get a very decent leader with this material and a 10% reduction furling as Skip Shorb, my mentor, does. However, when I started playing around using the very basic techniques for rope laying, i.e., using a top, letting the tippet end twist using a ball bearing barrel swivel, and furling and twisting (redundant terms) in one operation, I found that I get precisely what I want with a 20% reduction. This leader handles the big 'bugs quite well, and is a great 'wind-cutter'. It also handles #8 bugs with equal aplomb.
Just for "grins', when I started 'playing' with this method, I did a 2-strand 'rope' using 20# braided dacron backing, and furled to a 30% reduction. I have a beautiful 2-strand rope that can stand on it's own! There is one caveat to using this technique: getting the strrands furled all the way to the hooks is next to impossible to do unless you add "extenders" to the hooks and attach the butt end loops to these at the outset.
There is one caveat to using this technique: getting the strrands furled all the way to the hooks is next to impossible to do unless you add "extenders" to the hooks and attach the butt end loops to these at the outset.
Not really...do it all the time. Just need to know what you are doing.
Brad
I don't see the problem of getting to the end using the RLT, as I have seen your set up.
Brandon
Kaboom...
CONGRATULATIONS! I think I DO know what I am doing! I did NOT say it was impossible! My comment was made for the benefit of those who have no familiarity with rope making and tops; or their use.
FYI, I do know what I am doing, and I definitely know the solution to the problem. For your edification, there are two other respected members here, both of whom you know and one of whom you have had personal correspondence with on certain aspects of this matter, and who also had the problem of getting a tight furl all the way to the butt end. I take full responsibility for coming up with the extender idea, which does work quite well, thank you. No muss; no fuss! The other two have adopted that approach.
I am fully cognizant of how to solve the situation in the simplest possible way; but, that too has it's own problems that many will not figure out how to circumvent. It all has to do with top size. As it was much simpler, and faster, to add the extenders, I opted to go this route. It was one of the other two who came up with the type top that I use, and it was very fast and simple to put together. Thus, what I spoke to is the collective results of the three of us tackling the same problems at the same time, and our 'common' solution.
Cheers!
Frank
Brandon...
As you have only seen photos of my board, I fail to see how you can make the statement you did without actually seeing it in operation with the components that I use. I feel quite confident that if you were to give it a try on my board, you would definitely change your position.
Absent the extenders, and with the top that I use, I still have a good three inches of butt end to furl when the top comes to a dead stop against my furling hooks! Yes, it can be furled, but it is sloppy as all get out! I know at least one, and possible two, fellow furlers who would unequivocally confirm that statement.
Cheers,
Frank
FrankQuote:
Originally Posted by aged_sage
You will have to speak slower, and use smaller words for me to understand you.
As for finishing the furl after taking the leafer off of the hooks, simply twist the leader with your thumb and index finger until the leader is finished. Simple....
No one has appointed you God of the furlers and you seem to add nothing to any discussion but trying to prove how superior you are to everyone else. I will now take my leave and wish all of you good luck in your furling.
Buy the way, I probably furled more leaders this past weekend than you have done in your lifetime, I really do know what I am doing!!
Good Day Sir
Relative to your unwarranted sarcastic remarks, I just consider the source.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaboom1
Oh yes, your solution WILL NOT work with the products from my board. Therefore, I hate to burst your bubble; but, you do not have all of the answers either.
Frank
Ok, we do not need to have a good thread trashed.
Need I say more?
Thank you Denny.