How do you use your rotary vise?

How do those of you who own a rotary vise use the rotary feature? What types of things are more easily done with the rotary vise? What things could not be done without the rotary feature? Any real cool things? Do you half-hitch before using the rotary feature? Even though I just started fly tying recently, I ended up with two vises, a Danvise and a Griffin Superior 2A. I bought the Danvise first, but I couldn't pass up the Griffin for the price (it had been sitting on the shelf for a while). So far, I haven't been able to find anything about how to use the rotary feature on any rotary vise, Danvise or otherwise, so I ordered a DVD from Al Beatty (Rotary Tying Techniques). It seems that if I'm not going to use the rotary feature, I'd be better off with the simplicity of the Griffin. I'm thinking I might even sell the Danvise, but I'd like to know more about how I might benefit from using a rotary vise before doing something rash like putting it on Ebay.

Rochester, I have a Dan vise and now I wonder how I ever got along without it.

As far as why I use the rotary, it would be for all the activites I was previously doing without the rotary feature, they are just a whole lot easier now.

I use it for head cementing, palmering, tying in beards or throats, and just plain getting a better look at the fly. As well as reasons I can't right now remember, I am sure.

Some say it makes no differance and they are right when they say you can tie any fly without it. I do believe it makes tying a whole lot easier.

As far as the quality of my flies, I do find that my palmered flies have nicly spaced hackle wraps more so than before.

I would say keep the Dan vise. But thats just me http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/biggrin.gif . -Yaf

I just got a Renzetti Traveler, and like Yaffle I wonder how I got along without it.

For me it It makes some flys a heck of a lot easyer and faster.
Tinsle goes on much easyer, lead goes on like a snap and so on and so on.


Ryan.

Love my Renzetti .As for tinsel .. goes on smoother .. ribbing you can se if its spaced properly.. wrapping chenielle is 10 times faster for buggers ... love my Renzzeti and yes ... dont know how i did without for so long ..

lol JC .. forgot that too...

When I lay down an initial thread base, I don't use the rotary feature. For virtually any other task where material is *wound* I use the rotary feature almost exclusively. Just is easier and usually more even application once you get the hang of it.

Jim

I had problems in the past with Uni's floss coming apart parallel to the floss as I wound it on traditional style. This weekend past while putting together some floss bodied Hornbergs I tried using the rotary (on a Renzetti Traveller) and the floss wrapped on perfectly.

I kind of sighed and said to myself, I guess that's what the rotary is for.

(Use if for chenille, lead and thread already. Don't know why it never occurred to me that "rotarying" on the floss would cure the splitting problem. Does though http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/wink.gif )


...Glenn

Rochester,

I'll add to all the others.

Don't know how I did without it.

Easier, faster, neater.

Still finding things that it makes work better.

I half hitch when using straight eyed hooks. Don't need to for TDE or TUE hooks. It's become second nature.

By the way, if you get a chance check out A.K. Best's book about production tying techniques. He explains how and why to use a bench mounted bobbin cradle, rather than the one that mounts on the vise stem. Another little 'improvement' that makes rotary tying more efficient.

Good Luck!

Buddy

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Please do a search on "rotary vise" on FAOL under "Fly Tying" for a lot of information.

I avoided getting a rotary vise for quite awhile, feeling that rotary tying was way overblown. Now that I own a Dynaking Baracudda, I realize fully how right I was.
Eric

Very recently I got Al Beatty's DVD [comes in VHS too] on rotary tying and I highly recommend it ....there are some really neat methods he uses and it will answer the questions you asked...reasonable price and he's really fair with the shipping cost....

Also it helped me understand what he was talking about in the thread where we got him to tell us about his new vise.

After tying for centuries on a Zuron or Angler's Roost Vise, (remember that one old timers?); I bought a rotary.

I ditto all the above comments and add that it has made the overall tying experience more enjoyable to the point where I can literally tie all day if I had the time. I find that rotating the fly to different positions can make certain processes easier than the standard position. Palmering hackle and winding ribbing or any material is way easier and my flies look better. I still wind my dubbing the old fashioned way.

The only thing that took some getting used to was the straight nature of the vise as opposed to the slanting design of an "A" style vise. At times I feel like my hand is is the way, especially when tailing a tiny dry but since I have a Renzetti Master; I can reposition the jaw head to create more clearance when I need it.

Presentation, is the key to the rotary vise.

To be able to align the fly for proper sight lines, when affixing material onto the hook. To be able to rotate the hook, so you can proper see the other side, instead of tying blindly or having to peer over the top of the fly to see if you did the other side correctly.

Ribbing is easier, and more uniform with a rotary.

Wings are centered on top of the fly, and aligned with the axis of the hook shank.

Placement of Cheeks is easier with the fly on its side, so the cheeks are aligned with the wing.

Collars as well as laying Floss or Chenille, is simple with a rotary, no more twisting of the material, as it is applied.

Just the fact that you can see any part of the fly properly, when tying is the greatest aspect of the rotary vise.

~Parnelli

I just got a REnzetti Traveler for Christmas. I am still getting used to tying with it.

I was just tying a dozen pike flies that required the hook shank to have Larva lace wrapped up the entire length. I totally forgot that I could use the rotary feature until I had already done a couple. I finished the remaining ten in the same amount of time that it took me to do the first two.

The rotary is great, but it does take a little getting used to.

Here are the features I like:

1) after tying in a parachute post, angle the post toward you and down a bit. Makes it so easy to apply the supporting wraps around the base of the post.

2) head cement applied on all sides

3) When laying down the base of thread, I turn the hook point up. The wrapping action of my right hand is made easier with little liklihood of nicking the hook point.

4) photographing from different angles is easier.

5) applying legs on the far side of the fly (like in a rubber legged beetle) is easier because I can turn the fly upside down.

6) applying a beard is easier because I can turn the hook upside down.

7) when I tie off I pull the thread away from the fly (and away from me). I turn the fly 180* so I can now see the knot that was created on the far side of the fly and snip with scissor. I then rotate so the know is facing up and apply head cement. It all takes nano-seconds.

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Peter F
www.fishingwithflies.com
pfrailey@hotmail.com

Like many others above have said, I use my rotary vise (Renzetti Traveler) for everything except rotary-style tying. It is just nice to be able to turn the fly over to look at the other side, apply head cement, etc. I have never felt the need or desire to do rotary tying.

[This message has been edited by gadabout (edited 15 February 2005).]

Ditto the above.
We also use ours to apply dubbing to wire and mono thread. We also use ours to "bullit proof" peacock hurl and hackle for some applications. We also use ours for making dubbing "brushes".
We have had ours for about 10 years and we are STILL learning. Hmmm.....guess maybe that ain't saying much as to our mental capacities, huh? Roflol!
.....lee s.
PS - It's a Nor-vise.

PS - Keep the Dan-vise. :-)

Hi Loren,

When you get the DBD check out making peacock chenille and spinning deer hair using the rotating function of the vise. Take care & ...

Tight Lines - Al Beatty [url=http://www.btsflyfishing.com:f72b0]www.btsflyfishing.com[/url:f72b0]

simple- CLOUSERS!

Helps alot when using any form of dubbing brush and also when palmering marabou for popsicle type flies.

It takes a little getting used to, but once you do it helps in almost all aspects. Wrapping ,ribbing, palmering, application of head cement and epoxy.Twisting chenille for bass worms. I also like using it for foam beetles after tying off, turn the fly upside down and allow the head cement to really penetrate the threads. I also like to look at my flys from the fishes prespective which is from below not above.

One asset not yet mentioned is that when wrapping hackle there are two connected benefits. 1)Holding the hackle tip stable (in your right hand) while wrapping means the hackle doesn't slip out of your fingers as easily and 2) that it seldom breaks because it is not getting twisted with each wrap. I find that a half-hitch before each new step saves a lot of slippage.

[This message has been edited by Greg H (edited 15 February 2005).]

While we're on the subject...
I have a Renzetti and I like it. I have used the Rotary Feature very little, though. When I do, I usually end up with a big mess where the thread on the bobbin starts to unwind and mess up. Would one of you kind souls care to share the secret that I've never known about thread control while spinning on some other material?

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Elliott W.

I tie flies to give the fish something to laugh about.

Throw a half hitch before you lay the bobbin thread over the thread holder.