Anybody made their own studs for lug-sole boots?
I see studs go for 20$+, and was hoping there was a hardware store recipes, maybe with screws and some such stuff.
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Anybody made their own studs for lug-sole boots?
I see studs go for 20$+, and was hoping there was a hardware store recipes, maybe with screws and some such stuff.
I use gutter screws and insert/retract them with 1/4" nut driver in a cordless drill. Been working great for over 10 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Panfisha
Go to a dirt bike shop and get the screws for ice racing. They have a deeper head than sheet metal scews and then do what Joe said.
Pan:
My experience with screw-in studs is you get what you pay for and cheap doesn't always equate to savings. I also value my safety as the most important criterion for the selection of studs and when I do that, maximum grip & bite become the things I look for.
The grip of screw studs can come from many things and be dependent somewhat on conditions but bite is directly related to the sharpness of the edge of the screw head. Unfortunately how long they maintain maximum bite depends on where you fish, the screw head design and the hardness of the wear surface. What I have discovered over the years is when the screw heads wear to the point of being flat, they are like hobnails and are downright slippery and hazardous on hard smooth rocks. IMHO at that point you are better off WITHOUT them.
Here's what I have discovered through trial and error:
- Regular hardware store hex head sheet metal screws have less bite because they have an almost non-existent edge that is less sharp. As a result the bite wears out quickly because they are not significantly hardened steel. While they are the cheapest option, if you fish in rocky locations expect to replace them often.
- Stainless steel hex head sheet metal screws are harder with a similar bite to plain steel but you will most likely spend MORE for them than the purpose made regular wading shoe studs, and they won't last longer.
- Aluminum hex head sheet metal screws give excellent grip on clean rocks but don't help at all on mossy rocks, slime covered rocks or logs unless they are brand new. In clean rocky conditions, even when worn completely smooth they grip great due to the softness of aluminum which meshes and grips with the rock surface but ultimately that is their biggest weakness; they don't last that long due to the softness of the metal.
- Chota regular screw-in studs or Simms regular screw-in studs are case hardened steel with a sharp edge that bites way better than regular hex head screws...until that edge wears off. Because they are hardened steel they will last longer than hardware store sheet metal screws but not long enough for me. I typically would have to replace them several times a season to maintain maximum bite.
All of this experimentation soon brought me to the conclusion that I was better off to bite the bullet and investigate carbide tipped screw-in studs. The first ones I tried are Grip Studs. They aren't a sheet metal screw but rather a carbide single tipped auger screw that is available in many sizes that offer lots of protrusion lengths. The different length and size options allowed me to select a stud for my specific wading shoe application that resulted in a stud that doesn't stick out TOO far which can also effect grip as well as comfort. When selecting the ideal sole/stud combo you should seek a set-up where the sole material, be it rubber or felt also makes contact with what you are walking on. So far I have used them in my Chotas STL's for two years, they work fantastic and I haven't had to replace one yet!
- Motorcycle ice racing studs like Original Gold Ice Racing Screws or Kold Kutter Ice Racing Screws are hardened steel hex head sheet metal screws with VERY sharp edges. I've tried them both and the grip when they are new is incredible, especially the Kold Kutters which I like better than the Orginal Gold but alas, that super sharp edge doesn't last long. They are cheaper than REGULAR wading shoe studs if you buy them by the 100 although they could easily cost you 3 times more if you are not careful. Be forewarned: they are so sharp that they will EASILY cut a fly-line in half if you inadvertently step on it. Don't ask me how I know. :oops:
The other carbide stud I really like is the Orvis Posi-Grip Stud. The bite is fantastic and they work great on most shoes. Chota and Simms also now offer carbide tipped screw-in studs although I haven't tried either.
Obviously you are looking for less expensive options but if I factor in how many times I would have replaced NON-carbide studs in the time I have used carbide...
...the carbide is the best value option by a landslide!
Obviously YMMV.
Good luck in your search!
Great information.
I don't make or use other screws for studs, but my studs are carbide and they don't wear out. The soles wear out.