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Five Minute Epoxy
Hello Everyone,
First off I would like to thank you for looking at my post and hopfully helping me out if you could. Today I went to the local hardware store and purchased some 5 minute epoxy. I have read somewhere on the internet that I can use this on my flies so I thought why not and finally bought some today. Now my problem is I received 2 bottles of the stuff, one of these is a epoxy hardener and one is a epoxy resin, the directions say to mix the 2 up and than apply it. So my question is should I combine these or should I just use one or the other, and if you think you can help me solve this mystery any help would help me right now.
Thank You
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xisintheend,
You have to mix both together or it will not harden. Be sure to get equal amounts of both the epoxy resin and the hardener and mix well.
Steve
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"If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went"-Will Rogers
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Ohh thank you for clearing that up Steve, you seem to know what I meant, so I will go ahead and try it right away. I also just went on the Cabelas website and looked up their epoxy, they sell the stuff in 2 bottles as well but it only costs 5 times more to buy it from them. I don't know if its any better but I'm hopping my stuff does the job.
Marko
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Quik tip:
Rotate the fly that you have aplied epoxy to or else the epoxy will run.
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You can when you get better using the stuff can heat it up with a blow dryer on high heat and in will thin to almost water but will dry very quick.
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The bad news is that the 5 minute version sets fairly quickly, so be ready to apply the epoxy almost as soon as you mix the resin and hardener. The good news is it sets fairly quickly so don't have to manually turn the fly for half an hour waiting for the epoxy to set (if you don't have an epoxy drying wheel).
Good luck and have fun,
tt
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Thank you all,
I just tied my first copper john and used that epoxy on it. I had to tie it on a #10 streamer hook because I did not have any bead heads for my smaller hooks! The epoxy pretty much looks dry and it looks pretty professional looking, just the epoxy part looks professional not the rest of the fly. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/smile.gif
Marko
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xisintheend;
Bet you it will still catch fish!!
interesting handle!! how did you come by it?
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I feel more like I do now than I did when I got here!
Cactus AKA "Lucky Dog (Pirate Name)"
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Don't forget that you should limit your mixing to just stirring. Don't whip the mixture up like you're making scrambled eggs or you will get air bubbles mixed in. Also, you can lower the viscosity of the mixture by adding a very small amount of lacquer thimmer if you wish.
[This message has been edited by Ray Kunz (edited 17 September 2005).]
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teasels,
When you use high heat have you ever had trouble with the epoxy curing?
Since the way to break the cured epoxy bond is to use heat I've been afraid to use "HIGH" heat to do what you say. I guess I could just do a trail run test. Of course you haven't had trouble or you wouldn't have suggested it.
Might mention for anyone not used to epoxy ...that room temp. effects curing rate.
[This message has been edited by ducksterman (edited 17 September 2005).]
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Well I just put a little drop of each and mixed it for a few seconds until I saw them combine and form a little bit different color. I than just dipped the toothpick into the solution and applied it to the fly. This morning when I woke up I went to see the finished result again and I found a few mistakes on the fly. As it so turns out to be that I was so excited about getting to the epoxy part that I forgot to put the biots for the tail and I completely brushed the wings out of the picture!
Marko
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In your opening statement I thought you were going to mix the two bottles--as others have said you mix the amount you may need with a tooth pick with no bubbles. Dont worry about heating it. Without a dryer just rotate it in your vice or fingers. Next in all my years of tying if I read right you are covering your Copper John. Never heard of covering a fly. Epoxy is usually used on heads, poppers,tube minnow bodies etc where a hard finish is needed. Glad you bought the bottles and not the push tube.
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Bill
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xisintheend,
Here are another tips.
First, when you mix your epoxy, do it on Post-it notes. After epoxy job, you can easily throw that piece of paper.
Second, if epoxy on your Copper John runs or does not look swollen enough, you can follow Mike Mercer's tip, who is well-known for his Poxyback series (epoxy-backed nymph patterns): Mike puts the first thin coat of epoxy on the wingcase of his nymph and then adds another drop of epoxy on the first coat after the first layer dries. By doing so, the second coat will not run or lie flat because of the first coat.
Third, wooden toothpick may discolor epoxy, making it turn yellowish, so you may want to use a bodkin or plastic toothpick.
[This message has been edited by adso4 (edited 17 September 2005).]
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For any new user of the 5 min. epoxy bear in mind that it has very strong tendency to "wet" and will wick itself into nearby materialsif you apply too much. And many brands will turn yellowish in time.
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William Fitzgerald: in the Copper John the epoxy is put on top of the holographic tinsel wingcase to increase the reflectivity and imitate the bursting wings. There is also a series of 'PoxyBack' nymphs and emergers where the same technique is used. Search & See.
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you can also add a dab of model paint (Testors) to the mix and make (Mother of Epoxy)
or "MOE" flies with some Opaque color to em...
Great stuff...Soooo many uses in tying...
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"I've often wondered why it is that so many anglers spend so much money on,and pay so much attention to.the details on the wrong end of the fly line.If they took as much care in selecting or tying their flies as they did in the selection of the reel and rod,They might be able to gain the real extra edge that makes it possible to fool a fish that has,in fact,seen it all before" A.K.Best
"Wish ya great fishing"
Bill
[This message has been edited by billknepp (edited 18 September 2005).]
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Greg I just use Sally's clear nail polish. Poxy takes too long to dry when tying lots of flies.
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Very important to get a 50/50 mixture of the two bottles. as ASDO4 wrote. Use WHITE Post it notes or a paper pad to mix your components together. You just throw away a few sheets and it's all cleaned up. I usually lay out a 2 or 3 inch line side by side of each part that way you get a perfect 50/50 mixture. Then thoroughly mix the two parts together for 1 minute let set one minute to let the air bubbles settle out. then that gives you 2-3 minutes to work with it. Same formula used for rod building.
I have a guide friend who uses Loon UV Knot Sense for his Copper John's. He finds it easier to work with than 2-part epoxy. Also quicker.
Hope this helps,
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John G.
Albuquerque, NM
[This message has been edited by Fishnfool (edited 18 September 2005).]
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Thank You All for all of the help and tips you have provided me with. I read through all of this and I have received alot more responses than I expected to receive. I thought everybody would laugh at my questions, but you folks at FAOL seem to be open armed and very helpful people. I just want to comment on 1 thing and that is putting epoxy on post it notes. Well I actually thought about this before I started using the stuff, so I decided to use some of my broken blank cd's to mix the epoxy on. I think it works pretty good because after I am done with one round I let the epoxy dry off on the disk and than just scrape it off which enables me to use it again and again, hopefully it doesn't affect anything.
Thank You,
Marko
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Duckster
Never really had to much problem but then been doin it for yrs used to build RC aircraft used it a lot along with CA i guess experiance makes the dif. I used a heat shrink gun and used to debond epoxy from balsa after a rekit job some might know that as FATAL GROUND CONTACT (crash).
X You can thin silicon (clear ) and get the same effect. makes for a soft body takes longer to dry on the wheel about 24 hrs
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Marko,
Sounds like you have things worked out...more info for others reading this post:
I emphasize clean white pads or post it's. If your get colored pads or especially white note pads with blue lines on it. The ink will bleed out and get mixed in with your clear epoxy. You will end up with a funky looking color instead of clear. I also leave my "stirring stick" on the pad. I can then check the pad and stick to see if everything is setting up properly. Much better than leaving a finger print on almost cured epoxy...You can't tell me I'm the only one to do this?
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John G.
Albuquerque, NM
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I find pallets made from a milk jug..slice out a few of the flat portions...and after use and cureing..you can bend the pallet and the old epoxy peels right off...and you can reuse it many times..and there is nothing to bleed into the mix...much cheaper than wasteing the great trees this country thinks are solely for toilet paper ....and postit notes...sorry..I'm going to H*ll for that one I souppose...lol
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"I've often wondered why it is that so many anglers spend so much money on,and pay so much attention to.the details on the wrong end of the fly line.If they took as much care in selecting or tying their flies as they did in the selection of the reel and rod,They might be able to gain the real extra edge that makes it possible to fool a fish that has,in fact,seen it all before" A.K.Best
"Wish ya great fishing"
Bill
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i do something similar to bill--use the plastic lids from coffee cans--then you can peel it right off.
if you do not mix it properly and the epoxy is still a bit sticky after it 'dries' coat it with clear nail polish.
i've read that using wood to stir epoxy will cause it to yellow. not sure if that is true but i always use metal.
if you ever buy the type that comes in one container with the plunger, split the handle of the plunger to give you more control of each side.
