would two layers of thread affect the rod made a mess of the first layer was hoping to hide it, the problem came from using too much krazy glue which I could not clean off properly.
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would two layers of thread affect the rod made a mess of the first layer was hoping to hide it, the problem came from using too much krazy glue which I could not clean off properly.
I have done some guide wraps doing two layers....
1st layer is one color (for demonstration, say yellow), that is the longest, and continuous.
2nd layer, is a different color (for demonstrations, say purple) than the first, that is the two banded guide wraps to hold the snake/stripping guides.
And lets say the rod blank is Hunter's Green, actually this ends up being a pleasing color contrast on the finished fly rod.
The end result is a seqence of colors (yellow, purple, yellow, purple, yellow).
I also do the ferrules using the same sequence and sizing as the nearest guide wrap, only difference is I do a spiral for the gap between the 2nd layer bands. so the sequence is (yellow, purlpe, yellow/w purple spiral, purple, yellow). I also do a similar band sequence between the last stripping guide and the Handle Grip on the Butt Section.
The action will be slowed down some (not that noticeable in my opinion), because of the weight of the extra thread, but the underwrap will protect the rod blank from pressure on a guide foot, that under load cut into the rod blank.
I only do this on MY heavy weight fly rods that I use for Largemouth Bass, Salmon/Steelhead, and Pike/Muskie!
Parnelli
[This message has been edited by Steven H. McGarthwaite (edited 15 May 2005).]
If you goofed, cut it off and do it again. Covering up a boo-boo doesn't make it go away, just hides it. Parn is talking about underwraps on guide feet, not exactly the same circumstances.
Just wondering. Why crazy glue? IMHO its the wrong stuff to use near a blank unless there's some new type or something. Best to strip it off and start over again I think.
Ol' Bill
Yep, strip it off and start over. From your description it sounds like you used the krazy glue to try covering the thread wraps with. If that is the case, I beleave you are done for. Personally, I have not heard of krazy glue being used anywhere in rod building.
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used th glue to hold the guide in place before wrapping, also used masking tape the glue caused problems removing the tape.
I think they make some special solvents for 'krazy glue'. Check a hobby shop that caters to the model airplane crowd. I recall some spray on stuff that would un-glue skin and eye lids fairly quickly. (don't ask how I know this..)
I agree with others that you should remove the mess and start fresh. As long as you don't damage the blank by nicking the fibers I think you will be ok.
As a model airplane builder I use alot of CA or crazy glue. We use a product called debonder its just acetone with a thickener. You can soften CA with a heat gun and remove the tread if someone holds the gun while you pull off the treads... FB.
Here is a suggestion: Throw away the crazy glue and masking tape for future guide wrapping projects. Use this method instead.
At any major craft store, you can buy a product called "Streatchy String". It comes in different diameters. (I prefer using the thin stuff). Cut a piece 10" long. Tie an overhand knot on the blank, move the guide into position and slide the string over it.
Taking the loose end wrap it over the guide foot several times and cinch it down with another overhand knot or two. In the case of a double foot guide , do both feet. ...Now your guide is fastened. Start your wrap and when you get to the string , use a razor and touch the string . It will comes right off, then finish your wrap. One thing nice about using this stuff is that the guide can be repositioned at anytime and leaves no trace when removed. Good Luck and happy building!
[This message has been edited by Smernsky (edited 17 May 2005).]
tried to remove the stuff but nicked the blank this have me worried that I may have damaged it, looked for the sting but could not get it here (Guyana SA) plan to try stripping some elastic next time. and DEFINTELY STAY AWAW FROM THE GLUE
Ok on no luck at the craft shops in your area. That's all "stretchy string" is (very thin elastic) If worse comes to worse, you can cut large thin rubber bands.
Use JC's suggestion on nicking the blank, its a good one.
[This message has been edited by Smernsky (edited 17 May 2005).]
hmmm yellow ...purple... yellow... purple... yello... purple .... like them colors as i sit here in my Minnesota vikings sweatshirt.
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Mike
If you nicked just the top coat (glossy finish) you will be ok. If the nick goes deep enough to have cut any of the graphite fibers it will cause a stress concentration and the rod will break under load. No maybe, it will break it's just a mater of when.
I have successfully repaired this kind of damage by adding a small section of an old broken rod as a splice to reinforce the area. Look at the FOAL site and do a search of 'rod repairs'. There is an excellent 'how to' article with step by step instructions to repair several types of damage. Treat this one as if it were a clean break type of repair, just skip the inner splice.
While additional thread wraps will add hoop strength, they won't do a thing for bending stresses. Since the bending stresses are parallel to the rod and the thread wraps are perpendicular, they just run in the wrong direction to fix this kind of thing.
It might be possible to purchase a replacement for just the damaged section. Check with the manufactors 'repair' department. I have found some of them to be very helpful and understanding. It might even be considered a warranty replacement.
In reference to JC's advice, don't cast a unfinished rod without adding a reinforceing wrap to the female ferrule. This wrap is essential to getting full strength out of the joint. Casting a blank w/o reinforcing wraps can split the ferrule. If you are really convinced it is damaged, you might forgo the destructive testing. It will be easier to add a splint now and the rod might not break clean but could delaminate and splinter.
In the future you might look into some 'rod bond' tip-top adhesive. This is a stick of hot melt adhesive that is used for tip tops and metal ferrules. You can heat up a guide foot with a lighter and rub it on the adhesive, then stick it in place before it sets. I have always had good luck just using 1/2" wide masking tape in several layers.
Good luck, this one might just get need to be filed under 'learning curve'