My question, does Articulated flies catch more fish? I know Kelly Galloup has some killer patterns, but I caught a bunch of fish on his NON articulated.
What say you all?
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My question, does Articulated flies catch more fish? I know Kelly Galloup has some killer patterns, but I caught a bunch of fish on his NON articulated.
What say you all?
More, no.
Bigger, yes.
My most consistently productive big fish fly when fishing on my own is a #4-4 olive Circus Peanut
I agree with Mr. Wiese.
The articulated flies are geared towards bigger fish. Kind of like a "hero or zero" approach.
After the spawn on the White R. in Arkansas, hundreds of fly fishers invade the waters.
There are lots of fish to be caught. Several of my friends drift, only throwing big streamers, looking for big fish.
The numbers of fish the catch is not great, but they do get some nice fish to the boat.
Big bait for big fish.
Having said that, I will say that really big fish are caught on small flies, too.
One morning, below Bull Shoals Dam, I saw a guy catch 3 trout each over 10 lbs, using a #16 or #18 fly.
I know the biggest fish I have caught are on very small flies, but that is mostly stillwater.
However the 20+" Browns I catch in the river are on a #18 Copper John or Pheasant tails...with Glow Bugs mixed in.
A key point missing in the discussion so far, is that articulated flies solve several problems, the additional movement of the fly being only one feature. One can read Galloup's and others writings to get all the details, but a key feature to me is that you can tie a bigger fly and still use a short shank hooked. This is a very useful advantage when fighting bigger fish, in my opinion. Galloup-style patterns (should we call this the "Michagan School" of streamers?), are only one small group of articulated patterns that have become popular. The steelhead crowd has been making use of articulated patterns for a while now with great effect, and I even know of a group of fishers that swear by articulated midges (yes, I know that one makes me wonder too).
In some ways the OP's question is akin to the age old question, do new patterns catch more fish than old patterns? Odd how often this topic crops up...
The advantage of short shanked hooks when fighting fish should not be overlooked... it is huge.
Also, articulated flies allow you to produce a profile as large as you could possibly need in a castable package.
Carrie Stevens classic patterns work extremely well to imitate salmon smolts for rainbows and lake trout. Landing them on long shank hooks is often a challenge though and the condition of the hooks after a fish or two is almost laughable... But articulating them changes the game completely...
It is tough to match large leeches, lamprey, and chunks of flesh in unarticulated form and make them both castable and able to keep the fish on the hook.
But, too, there are many successful contrarians rolling size 12 nymphs under spawning salmon to catch the huge rainbows hanging behind them.
I agree with the above.
'Articulated' flies allow you to build larger flies with better hook-up to landing ratios.
Dont' see any better 'action' on such flies.
Buddy
Buddy
Local fly shop has a tank and there will often be a group standing around as a new pattern is taken for a swim... I disagree with you that you cannot get more action out of an articulated fly... There is a lot to how they work and articulated flies tied on jig hooks look different in the water than the same tied on a straight shank, for example...
I believe you can get more and different action with articulated flies.
Not sure that translates into more fish though! ;)
art
My experience with soft plastic lures on spinning and casting tackle tells me motion does help catch fish. The Mr. Twister plastic worm and the Sassy Shad grub both resulting in catching more fish than I would with straight bodied plastic worms and grubs.
In reference to this subject: You might want to check your Trout Regulations to be sure that an articulated fly is legal. Maybe this reg is only in Tennessee, but, it would not hurt to check your regs. For instance, on the Cherokee Wildlife Management Area here in Tenessee, the regs state: "Only single-hook artificial lures and flies are permited. Use or possession of multiple hook lures, or bait is prohibited. One single-hook lure separated from a legal lure by a length of line (e.g. a dropper fly) is also permitted."
There are 18 rivers/creeks in this area that are under these regs.
Maybe that is why they came out with articulating shanks. Here you can fish up to three lure/flies and each on can contain multi hooks, but you are only allowed to posses limit at a time, no freezer or caned or smoked fish. You have to eat your bag limit before keeping anymore.
Most folks cut the front hook bend off on articulated flies, regardless if it is legal where they are fishing. I cut them off in two stages... First the hook point and most of the bend so you do not have to fight it while tying, and the rest, back into the rear of the body, when finished tying.
Some patterns call for cutting at the bend of the front hook, others the rear hook. Any advantage to either? I usually cut the front in the belief this will result in less material fouling. Thoughts?
When you cut the front do you worry about it's sharp edge?
That is a tough one as Kelly says that the fish will attack the head area on prey fish, but many here think the opposite. I personally don't see cutting the back hook on the bigger flies as why even put any hook there. Why not just material to make the fly longer. Chances are the fish will bite the back area and will be able to let go. So, I use a short hook in the front and a longer hook for the back when I do articulating. I splurged and bought some shanks and I will tie some up with them.
I have use Stingers for years as well.
Whenever I have made articulated flies, I have filed the cutoff shank so that there will be no sharp edges. The only flies I have made this way were Alaska salmon flies. I used 30 pound dacron backing, doubled it and used a modified snell knot to connect the two hook shanks. I never had one break.Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksterman
Ted
Only if you have any sense... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksterman
Around here the vast majority believes the rear hook is where it is at...Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Goddess
I have completely gone away from shanks for flies... They add a surprising amount of weight and greatly reduce castability... While I often add barbell eyes for weight it is in a very specific place for specific reasons... Shanks do not swim as lively as ordinary hooks cut off. And they are a LOT more expensive.
Some guides use cotter pins of considerable heft for shanks and they certainly work, but they are way too heavy IMO&E.
The new light wire shanks from the Sculpin Helmet folks have gotten a solid thumbs-down from most here (they are on discount shelves) because they are too light.
The biggest issue with articulated flies is making sure the hook does not tangle. Going to long shank hooks reduces fish-holding ability greatly... Going with longer tags leads to tangled flies... Going with furled extensions like the "Haymaker" pattern, or counterwrapped bunny strips like the "30-Incher" mostly solves tangles.
Many tie a small tube on the tails of long articulated flies and run the articulation thread through it to reduce tangling and that helps a lot.
art
Shanks have been around for a VERY long time...Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Goddess
As long as articulated flies maybe?;) Not blonde anymore, what can I say.
Very good point!Quote:
Originally Posted by WarrenP
Some trout areas in Missouri are that way. An area designated for fly fishing restricts the fly to one single point.
That is one single point hook per fly.
The MO regulations allow you to use up to 33 hooks on a line, so in theory you could throw as cast of 33 flies. ;)
I made a tool to roll my own shanks out of stainless steel welding wire. The wire comes in several thicknesses so you can make any size or length you need. The tool is made out of a 3/8th inch bolt and two 3/32nd inch roll pins.
Attachment 11755
Attachment 11756
iaflyfisher
If you do not want to go to the trouble of making the tools that's called a Waddington Shank and is available from 1/2" (12.5mm) to 4"(100mm) in length. Originally they were for Atlantic salmon and tied with a treble hook at the back. You can use any hook you like.
Cheers,
A.
No but you could troll or tied them between two stumps. Is that law to regulate non-professional trotlines?Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreer
I would hate to try that. Death bit blood loss might be the result. Either that, or I would be the first person to hook 20 trees on the same cast.Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreer
Ed
Podcast on Articulated Streamers
http://www.askaboutflyfishing.com/sp...strategies.cfm
Articulated Mid;)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f1...IMG_2170-1.jpg
Hap:Quote:
Originally Posted by hap
Can you expand on this comment? I was just about to use those shanks for flies I was hoping to use in AK. Are the Fish Skull shanks too light for everything or just for salmon? Thanks.
I bought some, have not used them yet, but I was counting on them being light as I prefer my lines to put the fly in the zone. They can't be lighter then a hook which they are replacing.
The trout guys on the Kenai River and elsewhere are the ones I have talked to about them. The wire is so small in diameter that they pretzel when stressed by big fish. Trout are too much for them, forget salmon. The steel in them is not as stiff as a properly tempered hook.Quote:
Originally Posted by whatfly
Many consider the Waddingtons too heavy for proper casting... Though there are those drift boat guys that use ridiculously heavy cotter pins (because they do not cast them in the boat.)
They are significantly less rigid than a properly hardened hook and are made of finer wire than most sacrificial hooks used for articulating. So, yes they are lighter than the hook they are replacing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly Goddess
Looking at the fine bending jig posted earlier you see that he is bending the wire and it is staying put after bending... Imagine a hook bending that easily... and not breaking. Those light wire shanks will be fine for smaller fish and will not likely fail during a fight with a big fish. But you will likely be retiring the fly after every decent fish.
Uncle Jesse,Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Jesse
From my understanding, that law came into being because of trotlines.
But it applies to number of hooks on a single line....rod or otherwise.
I got that info straight from a head honcho at the Mo. Dept. of Conservation.