Basic Question on twisting
Actually I'll make that two:
Do you agree or disagree that the tighter the twist the more efficient the leader...why?
How to you decide to quit twisting?....Personally I use the method Denny Conranch explained to me.....twist one sacrificial leader to breakage [without pigtailing]...timed by stop watch....then twist the others 5 to 10 seconds less.
Interesting thread, Duck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ducksterman
Actually I'll make that two:
Do you agree or disagree that the tighter the twist the more efficient the leader...why?
How to you decide to quit twisting?....Personally I use the method Denny Conranch explained to me.....twist one sacrificial leader to breakage [without pigtailing]...timed by stop watch....then twist the others 5 to 10 seconds less.
On your first question - not necessarily - because if you apply enough tension and twist hard enough, you can break the leader and then it is not at all effecient. :cry: Would you believe that I was experimenting with Kevlar tying thread one time and did exactly that - broke it, without damage to my furling jig. Subsequently, I did read that while Kevlar is extremely strong, it doesn't take to twisting all that well. Otherwise, I do believe a "tighter" twist is preferable to a "looser" twist. My thought is that the more twists there are, the more mass you are building into the leader at any and every given point, which should make it perform ( transfer energy ) better and be stronger.
On your second question - I've mentioned before that I prefer to use formulas, either that I got from my original instructor or that I have developed myself for different lengths and configurations, and a couple for different materials, although I tend to stick to the Danville 210. I presently furl ( both twist and furl ) under power, using a variable speed and reversible Ryobi battery powered drill. I have a mark on the whatchamadinger and twist / furl at a speed low enough that I can count the revs.
Really enjoyed Frank's description of what happens as he twists / furls his leaders under power. It is almost exactly how I would describe what happens using my jig. My tip end set up is quite a bit different than Frank's, and I always incorporate a tip ring in my leaders.
Instead of taking wraps around a tip end post, I take the wraps around a hook on a post that rides on a carriage. Two benefits. First, after I've finished laying out the leader material ( and I use quite a bit of tension on the thread as I do so ) and removing the posts, I can move the carriage away from the butt end far enough to take up any slack that is caused by the wraps around the posts.
Second, the hook facilitates incorporating the tip ring. Just slide the tip ring down one leg, remove the leader from the hook, slide the tip ring over the hook, take up any slack developed in that process, and you are good to go. One other advantage to incorporating the tip ring - there is no resistance caused by having the tip end "fixed" during the twisting and furling process. The strands are free to move in, around, through ( whatever word suits you best ) the tip ring, which I think improves or enhances uniformity between the legs during twisting.
John