First rod built from scratch.

Although I have tinkered with used rods and replaced tip tops and rewrapped and relaced guides, I never built one from a pile of components and a blank. This is what all the questions over the past few weeks have been about. This is my first rod from scratch. I purchased the blank, handle and reel seat on ebay. The guides I bought from Cabelas. The winding check is bead chain super glued, painted black and epoxied to the handle. This is a dark blue, 7 ft 3 piece 3wt. It costed about $35. to build.
Will someone tell me a better epoxy to use than loctite 5 minute? It doesn't work that great.
Sorry about the cruddy pics. I can't seem to get photobucket to work anymore.

Nice work Jim, i like the bead chain winding check ! I use Devcon 2 ton...sets in about 20 or 30 mins and gives me more working time than the 5 min.

Cheers,

MontanaMoose

I use the Devcon as well.

I wish I could see more in the pics. I am sure these don't do the rod justice.

Jim That blue just kicks some serious booty.....that sir is way nice!!!!
I just had a birthday and so here is my address if you dont care for the action of the overall feel.....lololol
Great job Sir

Congratulations on your first build. I find that there is something to learn with each new build. It gets to be fun and challenging to try new things. When you get an opportunity take a look at some of the pictures on the Rod Building Phorum.

What did you use the 5 minute epoxy for?

Greg

Greg, I used the 5 minute epoxy to set the reel seat, the handle and to dress the wrappings. Trust me I will not do that again. I mean it turned out ok but 5 minutes is not enough time to get the thread sealed proper. Jim

Oh, My! The 5 min is great for everything BUT the thread! You need a rod finish for that. There are many different ones out there. The rod finish takes 2-6 hours to set to where it isn't sagging which is why folks have turners or dryers. A turner puts the sag to work letting things level. As the rod turns, the finish is trying to find the low spot and in the process smooths out beautifully.

I use Flex-Coat. There are others.

Thank you Kevin. This is why I try to ask questions. I quess I didn't ask the correct one. I am starting another rod today but will order some Flex-coat for the finish. Thank you sir. Jim

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jimsnarocks

Thank you Kevin. This is why I try to ask questions. I quess I didn't ask the correct one. I am starting another rod today but will order some Flex-coat for the finish. Thank you sir. Jim

---

Do you have a turner? Once you apply the finish, you need to turn the rod so it doesn't 'puddle' or sag on you. I built one and then got a very inexpensive one that looks like it will hold up for a while here. This guy has quite a bit of stuff like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/9-rpm-rod-dryer-...item4aa41079fc

When you buy your rod finish, make sure you get measuring syringes, as well, as the parts need to be as close to equal as you can get. "About" doesn't get it.

Disposable brushes will be very handy as well.

Thanks again Kevin. I am ordering Flex-coat and assorted items from Cabelas. Cups, brushes and color coded syringes are on the list. I watched a you-tube video with a guy using epoxy applied with the blunt end of a drill bit on his wraps. I thought I could do that. I need to read more and ask more questions. I took this rod out last evening and lawn casted it at the park. It ain't too bad. I know I can do better with time and experience. Thanks for the ebay link. Jim

Jim,this is how I do it. Rod thread finish epoxy is much thinner than 5 minute epoxy. Do yourself a favor and order the disposable brushes, too, they are easy to use and you can clean them with denatured alcohol and re-use if you want. You may want to warm the Flex Coat bottles in a cup of a little warm water before mixing if it is cold where you are. With the syringes, mix 3 cc of hardener and 3 cc of resin to make it easier to get the proportions exact. Mix the h**l out of it, mix it some more, pour it out on a flat piece of aluminum foil, and blow the bubbles out of it with a drinking straw as they rise to the top. The foil also keeps the epoxy from building up heat and setting up too fast. Now you are ready to cover your thread wraps. Cover them generously, and then swipe off the excess sag from the underside with the brush. Use the straw to gently blow out any bubbles on the thread wraps, too. Turn the rod 180 degrees by hand every couple minutes for a while as you make sure you did not leave too much on and it will level nicely. Then put it on a drier if you have one, or keep turning it by hand every few minutes if not.

Thank you Greg. I've got the flex-coat, brushes, syringes and other things ordered from Jannsnetcraft for my next build. We live and learn huh? My next build is going to finish better I hope. I appreciate all the help I get from FAOL members. Jim