How much is enough backing?

Curious as to how much backing y'all put on your reels.
Do you put on enough to build the reel up so that the fly line meets the outer diameter of the reel spool or do you select a specific distance (ie 50 yds) and call it good?

Dear Wednesday Caster,

I try to follow the recommendation of the reel manufacturer, and fill the reel close to absolute capacity. It makes for less coiled line, but that is about all. It seems that the only time I see my backing is when I replace a fly line. :lol:

Best Wishes,
Avalon :D

I put enough on to fill the reel. It helps keep the memory of smaller coils out of the flyline. I put the flyline on the reel first and then the backing, that way I know just how much to use. Then I take it all back off and reverse the process. It may take a little longer to do it this way but I hate putting on what I think is the right amount of backing then putting my flyline on only to find out I either have to much backing or not enough.

Rocky

There is a chart for a lot of reel makers that lists what type of reel you have and how much backing you should put on. I've seen some as few as 50 yards and some as much as 250 yards. I have one of those charts somewhere...which means I forgot exactly where it is right now, but I can find it given enough time.

If you want, drop me a note and I'll try and dig it up.

This is what I found while searching on the web:
INSTALLING FLY LINE ON A REEL
Install the backing first.
Most fly fishers fill the spool of the reel with as much backing as possible to allow them to retrieve faster and to reduce line memory. Thereby the line is less likely to tangle.
Read the reel capacity chart to determine the amount of backing needed for the reel.
Find and loosen the end of the backing. Remove a few feet of line from the spool. Run the tag end through the front of the reel, around the spool, and out again. Tie a simple overhand slipknot in the tag end, then a single overhand knot, tighten and trim it. This tag end will be tied to the reel with an arbor knot.
The backing should be installed by pulling it off a revolving spool. If the spool is laid flat on the ground and the backing coiled off (as when filling an open-faced spinning reel), it will twist and become tangled.
Place a bunt pencil through the center of the spool of backing, so that the spool will rotate around the pencil
Place pencil between your knees. With the end of the backing tied to the reel, reel the backing onto the reel from the backing spool preferably through your fingers to apply tension while loading the line and to load the backing evenly onto the reel. Stop when enough backing is on the reel.

Spooling fly line
Open the coil pack holding the fly line by twisting and carefully remove the fly line from the coil pack. Remove twist-ties from the line and replace it on coil pack. DO NOT place the line on the floor, because it will cause the line to twist or become entangled. Put the coil pack back together, leaving approximately a foot of line outside the coil pack. Tie the tagged end of the fly line to the backing using an Albright knot.
Insert a blunt pencil through the hole in the center of the coil pack, so that the pack will freely rotate around the pencil.
Place pencil between your knees and spool line slowly onto your reel. Guide line trough your fingers to apply tension and to load the line evenly onto the reel. The fly line should be fully loaded except 4 or 5 feet.
Attach the butt (thick end) of your leader to the end of your fly line using a nail knot.

What ELKHUNTER said. I think I've used 20 or 30# dacron or whatever stuff was available. Just enough so that the line ends up about 1/8 inch below the frame. Do not use monofilament.

Allan

I had my backing put on at the fly shop that I frequent. They followed the manufacturere's recommendations and put on enough of it that between the backing and the fly line, it pretty much filled up the reel.

The problem was that when I was taking in line, sometimes the fly line would "stack up" in one spot, making it thicker than usual, and then the fly line would rub and drag on the reel. So, I took a bit of the backing off. Now, I've got some extra space, but I don't have the rubbing issue.

So, you might want to consider using a little less backing than recommended.

:D I put the flyline on first and then wrap the backing on until the reel is full. Then I remove everything and reverse the process. The result is a perfectly filled reel without all the guesswork as to how much backing to load.
Gary

I'm still doing the put it on backwards, cut backing,unwind, and put it all back on the right way method. I've shifted from a "how much backing can fit", thouhg, mode to a "how much will keep me from binding".

I mostly fish in situations that never get me into my backing. I apprceiate the larger remembered coils I get with plenty of backing, but also prefer not to have to worry about line stacking and binding when reeling in.

Whatever floats your boat!

Observations...

As alluded to above out fishing we can often wind the line on more loosely than when originally wound on...so make sure there is plenty of clearance to begin with.

In fact, now I purposely wind my lines on with very little tension because it seems to me it is less likely to set.

This may only make things worse,
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/cst/cst041204.html

and this can come in handy....


http://www.flyanglersonline.com/feature ... rc336.html

ducksterman, that is cool as heck, thanks. 8)
Backing on my reels, pretty much what everyone else said. I use Battenkill LA's (English), a couple of Battenkill Mids (English) CFO's (English- Spring/Pawl) and one BBS V with as much backing as I could put on it for STEELHEAD. I have seen my backing on several occassions, but with the LA that is to be expected with a 50yrd capacity, but always able to chase. Steelhead, I am not taking a chance, however if it gets into 100yrds of my backing I am sure I can kiss that line goodbye :lol:

The standard flyline backing is 20 pound Dacron. This usually comes in white, orange and chartruese. Pick a color that differs from your fly line. Remember that REAL men never even SAY chartruese let alone know how to spell it.

Now the true secret is to put the fly line on first then the backing as you never know how much to really use. Keep it about 1/8"-3/16" under jamming your reel up. Then remove it and reverse it. But this is too easy.

Now back to what the non-experts do. Use as much backing as called for on your reel box. DUMB!!! Reel makers LIE! Don't you know that yet? Good grief, ROOKIES! Let's use Okuma as an example. Some of their reels call for 100 yards of backing and they REALLY hold only 50 of it. Liars! But they are tricky, too! Another Okuma reel calls for 120 yards of backing and it holds almost 110 yards. Tricky buggers...not even the same percentage. Now Loomis is trickier yet. Their recomendations are right on. I HATE it when they do that as it never happens.

The recomended amount also varies with the weight line you use. You get a lot more backing when you use a 3 wt rather than an 8 wt. Like you really need 125 yards of backing on a 3 weight. Tricky buggers again.

You get more line if you carefully apply the line. The more unnecessary crossovers, the less line you have room for. Now my boss demands we use the nail knot for backing to line and line to leader. Probably so he can sell more line as the salmon takes off with it.

The line manufacturers get even more devious. The line is placed on spools with wings which tangle at every turn. Worse yet, the spools are split so that they open up as soon as you touch them tangling the line for at least 30 minutes. That is the industry standard. Now the Cortland 333 is a baby puke green color which you cannot even stand to look at making it more like an hour to untangle.

I use a line turner with foot pedal (designed by line manufacturers to jump speeds to cause more problems). I place the fly line on the opposite arbor, line them up and lock the end arbors BEFORE I take the twisties off the fly line. This keeps the line from jumping off into tangles. Fly line companies really hate me for this. They also hate me for buying new fly lines only about every 40 years. An old dry line makes a perfectly fine sinking tip line after this many years.

I think it is Cortland again that had a monfiliment-like clear fly line. These are very slick so use a really strong backing to fly line. These buggers get trickier every year! I never get free fly lines...wonder why?

By the way, unless you have an unusually wide arbor reel, don't put on any more backing than about 1/2" to the low side of your reel spool.

Well, thanks for all help, monster line winder design, and especially the mfr. "conspiracy theory" synopsis :wink: .
The method of winding the fly line first and then backing makes all the sense in the world. Sure takes the guessing out of when to stop on puting on the backing. I've got 3 reels to load so all this will help greatly.
Thanks gents.