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A friend of mine has a Cortland Sylk line that doesn't fit on the reel he'd like to use... I suggested trimming the end off to make it fit, but then thought maybe there's some weird reason that I don't know of that could wreck the line.
Any comments?
What did Cortland say?
I've had several, and they're no different in construction from any other pvc line with braided nylon core. The line won't unravel or anything like that if it's cut (neither will real silk, for that matter). I assume you're talking about cutting some of the running line on a WF line? You can also cut a DT line in half, or cut from the middle and epoxy splice the two heads to get a DT of shorter length. I've done that many times to get 60 to 70 foot DT's that fit on my reels much better, and they've always performed and lasted as well as whole DT's. Bottom line is, anything you can do to a 444 (peach), you can do to the 444 Sylk (although it's not quite as tough a line).
-CC
Why not remove some backing? It allows you to maintain the integrity of the line, have more line out before you have a knot run through your guides etc.
jed
Thanks CC. I didn't think there'd be a problem just wanted to ask the population if they've encountered any.
My friend isn't much of a DIYer... but do you (or anyone) have a link to the epoxy splicing you referenced?
Edit: Jed, the line doesn't fit on the reel without any backing whatsoever. My friend has the wrong sized reel, but it's an antique reel, and is committed to using it with this rod (I think he said it's a 5 weight rod... but the reel diameter is too small for the line).
[This message has been edited by Hextall (edited 23 May 2006).]
Did I miss it; is it DT of WF?
If he cannot get a full line on his reel then he might consider cutting off any line that is beyond his casting distance and add as much backing as he can. This will give him more total length of line and won't interfere with his casting. He will not have alot of line in the end, but all you can get may be helpful. Nothing as disappointing as loosing the big one because you get spooled.
jed
Man... I'm the king of partial information.
It's a DT line (Cortland Sylk). The rod is a bamboo 5 wt (he got in an auction with the Anglers Club in NYC... I think), and he has an antique reel (1930's era Hardy) that he wants to put on it. The problem is that the line doesn't fit on the reel, even without any backing.
I suggested cutting it in half (or at least cutting off on of the tapered ends)... but just wanted to ask around if anyone's ever had problems post-trimming this line (I know nothing about the line).
Thanks for all the suggestions/responses... I linked him to this page.
I don't have a link, but will describe the process. This works for line repairs, too.
-Insert a needle with a fairly blunt tip (fly tying bodkin often works) into the core of one side of the line where you want to splice, about 1/2 inch, farther if this is a heavy line for heavy fish. A nice, clean, square cut will facilitate this. You might find it easier to use a smaller needle first, let it stay in a while to stretch the line, then go to the larger needle and let it stay in a while.
-Strip the coating from the other piece of line for at least 2 inches, more if the splice will be longer. I use acetone for stripping (dip the end into the acetone and let it soak for 20-30 seconds (longer with really tough coatings, like the one SA uses on Mastery lines), then use your finger and thumb nail to pull off the coating cleanly. Let this piece dry thoroughly--doesn't take long.
-Fray the end of the stripped core for 1/2 inch or so. Divide the frayed end into two equal (more or less) sections and cut off one section.
-Here's the fun part--pull the stripped core into the hollowed line end. There are various ways to do this. I don't always use the same method, depending on how well or poorly the process is going, and you might come up with a new and better way. You need to run the needle through the core and pvc of the line at the 1/2 inch point (like doing a needle knot leader connection). You may be able to pull the needle all the way through with the frayed core end inserted into the eye of the needle. I usually have trouble with this, so my favorite alternative is, after running the bigger needle or bodkin through the side of the line, I insert a slighly smaller needle through the line, starting at the puncture and out through the end, with a 12 inch length of 2X or 3X tippet inserted halfway through the needle eye, so that I am left with a doubled length of tippet, loop first, sticking out of the end of the line (and a needle inconveniently hanging from the loop). At this point, I take some cutting pliers and sacrifice the needle (covering the operation so no pieces go flying). Then I carefully pull the looped tippet back through the line (having inserted the frayed core into the loop).
-Mix up some 5 minute epoxy, coat the core with epoxy, making sure it is saturated for the last 1/2 inch next to the pvc, and pull the core into the hollowed line all the way until the outer pvc skins meet.
-Roll the joint to spread the epoxy around inside, cut off the protruding core cleanly, and wait for the glue to dry. Voila!
You might want to practice on some old line first--I never did, but then I headed off to Navy OCS in balmy Newport, RI, in December 1981, without asking the recruiter too many questions about what I was getting into, so that tells you my risk acceptance level (or intelligence level, more likely).
Regarding your friend's reel. Even if you make the line shorter so it will fit, it will be rolled too tightly around the small arbor and will result in nasty coils in that end of the line. If he insists on using too small a reel, may I suggest that he store his line in loose loops off the reel (the way you're supposed to store silk line) and only reel it up when going fishing. This will help a bit and reduce the amount of stretching needed before casting.
[This message has been edited by cross creek (edited 23 May 2006).]
If it's a DT then cut it in half and when he finally wears out the first half he'll have the second half to use just as he would if it were whole and he could flip it, in essence 2 fly lines and a pile of backing.
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Oct Woods
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Hey, they are cheap! Buy a WF Sylk, probably fit. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/wink.gif
Has anyone heard of the saying "A job worth doing is worth doing right ?
Put a little backing on it, get a short factory WF line and be happy !!
Bump de bump - My opinion, forget about hacking up the Silk line. To make sure you are on right path, go to Global Dorber an FAOL sponser, order a DT or WF line, it will set you back a whopping $14.40. They have a 30 yard version and this should tell you how the reel should hone up to an approiate configeration. Don't invent the wheel, the wheel is for sale on FAOL.
[This message has been edited by Jonezee (edited 23 May 2006).]
If a 5wt SYLK doesn't fit than the reel must be small.
Take JC's advice, if the 5wt DT almost makes it, a WF5 SYLK probably will fit. Tell him to try a regular WF5 just for a comparison to see how close he can get knowing that the SYLK is considerably thinner. The price of the SYLK is pretty reasonable IMHO.
Thanks for all the comments... I forwarded the thread to my friend.
One thing I suggested was to mark the line at the midpoint with a marker, and lawn cast to see if he could live with that short a line... if not, then cast out till he got a comfortable distance, and mark the line there.
Then take off the line, and put back on the spool with the tip to see if the new distance fit (and if it did... maybe add some backing... I think he should have some backing).
again, thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
Sylk lines are a bit smaller in diameter than other Cortland lines, except maybe for the Clear Creek, which is also small diameter. Your pal probably bought the DT thinking that it is more fitting on a vintage rod, which is true. However, trading it for a WF Sylk is the best move in my opinion. He will then get some backing under the line and if need be, he can cut some of the running line from the BACK, not the front.
Also, the Sylk line has a built in long, level front tip ahead of the taper. Don't cut this as it is critical to the casting properties of the Sylk line.
Good Fishing,
Les Johnson
I really do not understand the problem the person is having.
My 7 weight Cortland Sylk, is the same diameter as my 3 weight Scientific Angler PVC. The Cortland Sylk, should fit on the appropriate reel, with plenty of room for backing line. ~Parnelli
Have you actually miked your 7wt Sylk? I've miked 2-4 weight Sylks and compared them with SA GPX, Ultra 4, and XPS in the same sizes. I didn't see a huge difference, except that the Sylk and XPS had much smaller tips (which also sink better). I certainly didn't see anything approaching your 7wt/3wt comparison, which is beyond even the difference with real silk. Sylks get their slightly smaller diameter due to a smaller core (15lb vs 20lb in some sizes). That's not going to make a huge difference in diameter, especially as the line weights increase, but it will make the lines more supple, perhaps making them feel thinner.
I did not mic my lines, just and eyeball comparison. The reason Sylk Line by Cortland is thinner, is because it is suppose to replace the original Silk Line, that was on the Split Cane Rods, which had very small diameter stripping guides.
Which is why most old split cane fly rods were retired. Not because they were no longer effective, but because the Silk Line was either no longer readily available or too much bother, compared to the newer (back in the 50's)PVC Line.
My 7 weight Split Cane, the SA PVC, barely fit through the red agate stripping guide. Now with the Cortland Sylk Line, the fly rod is singing again. 50 years in a closet, collecting dust on its case, waken from the long slumber to go fishing again.
I cut mine at the backing end to have more backing which is more critical to me than a 90ft fly line. Not a problem. I've done it with other lines also including real silk.
Randy