Hello,
I am wondering what the best rod building kit for under 200 dollars. I want a five wt rod . I was looking at the GL3 rods by G. Loomis. Is it worth ti to build your own rod.
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Hello,
I am wondering what the best rod building kit for under 200 dollars. I want a five wt rod . I was looking at the GL3 rods by G. Loomis. Is it worth ti to build your own rod.
Hook and Hackle has the best prices for a kit 5 weight. Check out their site and if you have any questions call. they are wonderful to talk to. Is it worth it to build your own rod. I think so yes but that is just me. It depends on what you want out of a rod. Cost wise your time is worth something. That being said think about this. You are fly fishing your favorite spiecies with a rod you built yourself, leader you did yourself, and a fly you tied. You catch a fish. How much money would you spend for that. Me that is priceless. We all have our own opinions on building and I hope others express theirs here. My advise GO FOR IT!!!
WAY too much is dependent upon LOTS of data you didn't provide ... type of waterbody, species of fish, type of fly, experience level, etc.
Your question CAN be answered properly with more information.
TJ -
Hello,
Mostly smaller rivers maybe some lake fishing. I will be fishing trout and bluegill. As for flies i fish everything.:D
you did pick a good blank to start with,now putting it together is something else,go for it :D
IMO, spend just a tad bit more money and buy a St Croix SCIII 4-piece. It IS a better blank than the GL3, especially in lower line classes AND you will VERY much appreciate the four-piece design over the two-piece option.
BTW, if you really have to stay under $200 and you don't mind an offshore blank ... look at TFO's Professional Series.
Take your time on the wrapping. Make sure it is as close to perfect as you think you can get before you apply the epoxy. Easy to back up before the epoxy. Practicing on a dowel could help. Also, taper the guide feet well. Before long you could be building rods with better workmanship than you can buy.
Good lighting is a must if you're going to do good (or even decent) work.
Greybeard
A couple of rods I did, I was having trouble getting the thread to "jump" up onto the guide foot, then finally figured out that you need to taper the foot horizontally as well as vertically, that is you want the foot to come to a point, but you also want the area over the point to be quite thin.
The GL3 rod is a great rod to start with, it was my first build. I wrapped and unwrapped the guides a few times until I had something I was satisfied with. You will end up with a functional fishing rod that fishes well. The GL3 is a good value in my opinion.
Bill
I'm just going to answer your question first , then add some food for thought. The question was : "is it worth it to build your own rod".
Depends on your definition of worth. If it's the satisfaction of building the rod your way, rather than just buying a store bought rod....then I'd say absolutley
If your looking to save money and do it fast I'd say .......buy the store bought rod.
Realisticly ......people who build custom rods are not usually trying to save a lot of money. They build for satisfaction, and for the most part try to build a better rod than you can buy off the shelf. Another note of interest is that people get hung up on so called name brand blanks and a lot of times overlook private label ones. It always amazes me that they always seem to limit their search without looking at all the options........Ed
CD,
I have wrapped up a couple of GL3s. They are great rods for the price. I had a tip break off one while wrapping one. It was a defect and Loomis sent me a new blank free of charge after sending back the defective one. TampaJim has a good suggestion about a 4 piece blank though. Always nice for travel concerns.
Beaver
Like Beaver, I've tied up a couple of GL3s too. I like rods that are on the fast side, and for the price, the GL3 is a good fit. I actually prefer 2 piece over 4 piece rods. The 4 piece rods come apart while casting too often for me. It never happens with my 2 piece rods.
Every post here has some validity. I think you can save some money building comparatively priced factory rods. But, as previously suggested, the real payoff is in the satisfaction of knowing you built your own stick. Also, after fishing enough rods, I know what I like and what I'd like to add to my rods to better suit my needs. On some of my rods I have placed 15 and 20-inch marks to quickly measure fish. I can place a hook keeper on my rod, the type I like or none at all. I can choose the guides I like or experiment with different ones. Don't forget the handle. I make my from scratch by gluing cork rings together and shaping them to fit my hand. I think if you get good enough you can sell some builds for some extra cash. I guess the true beauty in building your own is the flexibility it gives you. Hope that helps a bit. One more thing. Through this web site and rod building I have made a good friend who has been teaching me how to build rods. There's another benefit!
Bruce
I have a problem with people saying "it's a great xxxx for the money". I can understand if it was a rod that was "cosmetically challenged", but how can you like a rod that was made from a 35.00 blank but doesn't cast as well as a rod that was made from a 100.00 blank and casts very nicely? Am I missing something?
You can buy a $125 famous brand rod blank and put $50 worth of components on it. You might pay $300 or $400 for that same blank finished by a name manufacturer. I think my logic is accurate. Example: A 9 ft., 5 wt. St. Croix Avid Fly Rod is made with SCIII graphite and sells for about $260 at a store or in a catalog. You can buythat same rod blank for $80 or $90. A sponsor of this site will sell you a component kit (winding check, guides, stripping guides and handles) that are plenty fine for $40. So, not counting your time to make it as money, you would now have a $260 rod made by yourself for about $130. There are professional builders here that would be glad to help you and they can correct me if my thinking is wrong because I don't want to mislead.
I am not a proponent of paraffin wax. However, I do use and recommend U40's Ferrule Lube. It is inexpensive and does a great job.
As far as multi-piece rods staying together - 99.5% of the time, I find the issue to be the method used to assemble the sections. Each section should be joined at a 90 degrees, gently pushed to the stopping point, turned 90 degrees to proper alignment and THEN snugged up. Reverse the process for disassembly. Every 2-3 hours during the day, check the sections to ensure they are snug.
BTW, there is a HUGE difference between snug and tight ... learn it and the issues related to disassembly will also lessen.
TJ -
Have to agree with Tampa on this one. All I own are muti-piece rods. I only ever had one come apart early in my FFishing career. Since then his recommendations are on the money. I've never had a rod come apart since. Good advice there.
Buying blanks: you must know how the blank or blanks that you purchase will cast, what their action is and how they will hold up over the long haul. This only comes with experience and feedback. Most new builders or one time builders do not have the time , money or the patience to research blanks like this. My suggestion is cast the factory rod first! If you like the action and the blank is available buy it, you will save some money building it yourself.
I know for a fact that certain private label blanks will match the color, action , and durabilty of a $600. plus factory rod and although the blank didnt cost $35. it didnt approach $300. either. I have laid the factory rod next to the custom I have built and had people pick the rods up (asking them not to look at the name) and cast them each. Most of these folks were experienced casters.... None could tell the difference.
You may say this is hokie, but some people hate to admit they paid 3 times more for a rod that sported a big name................ah the power of marketing!
I have to agree with everybody cdpaul...I don't know if it's the best, but the kit I'm getting from H&H (sponsor here) was around $72 for a 7wt. two piece American made blank, thread, guides including two stripppers, tip top, winding check and wrap finish. I could have spent another $20 or so for a grip and a bit more still for a fighting butt, then another $20 to $40 for a reel seet but I make my own grips and had a Struble reel seat especially for this build. You might take a look at the H&H site if you haven't already and if you like green, have a look at the 'American Tackle' brand blanks, call them up and Ron or Russ will set you up.
About blank costs and castability, well...I got this blank for only three reasons, it's green, it's US made (maybe all blanks are US made that are green, I don't know) and finally because it had been recommended to me by another builder that used to frequent this site. How will it cast...I don't know and don't really care all that much...I wanted a certain kind of green and I wanted to be certain that it was American made.
The reel for this outfit will be my Fly Logic 456 in the mottled green...yep, I like green...and I already have the backing, a 7wt line and leader on it and it fits just right because I chose a short 82 ft. line. The reel seat is also green, a newer model from Struble called HG something or other...it was a gift. So you see, there are more than just kits as a way to get under $200 for a nice looking fly rod. If it casts well out of the gate, fine, if not I'll play with lines and leaders until it does.
Take the plunge cdpaul...it's easier than you think to build your own rod and as mentioned, you surely don't have to spend a ton on the blank alone.
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
CDPaul, the Rainshadow RX7 is our staple blank and we like it more than the GL3. It's less expensive, too. Give us a buzz at H&H and we'll set you up! Thanks for the kudos from others. And, by the way, there are many good blanks out there and most of them are worth checking out, building and fishing.
Ron (give us a call)
Hackleman,
I went to your web site and the Rainshadow RX7 is a lot more expensive than the GL3. Are you talking about the RX7 or RX6?
Thanks
Beaver
I agree with MontanaMoose and Ron, H&H have a great selection and my favorite is the Rainshadow RX7 in the green blank. A fast rod, and, when completed a very professional and great looking rod (looks great with chartreuse Uni wire rolled in with the thread as an accent). Throws a line like a cannon, yet is very sensitive. I built six rods last year and they were all on this blank in different weights in either four or three piece (hard to find any three-piece rods anymore since they stopped manufacturing them). Also, Ron (hackleman57), is very responsive and helpful with any questions so take his advise and call him and you'll get nothing but great advice.
Anyway, my two-cents worth. You don't need a name-brand in order to have a great rod that will stack up to any one of the name-brands. Also look at DanCraft Enterprises for some great rod blanks.
Kelly.
I think Rainshadow Blanks are excellent. I've built on 4 so far and they're all excellent. Ron at H & H is very accommodating.
I agree with Smernsky. Don't have to spend a lot. You'll be amazed at how good a rod you can build for $125 or so. Always, of course, feel free to give us a buzz.
Ron
I think you were looking at the RX7+, not the "regular RX7."
Look here for RX7 : http://shop4.mailordercentral.com/ho...s.asp?dept=112
Look here for Loomis: http://shop4.mailordercentral.com/ho...s.asp?dept=549
Or you may have been looking at http://shop4.mailordercentral.com/ho...s.asp?dept=767, which are the PacBay Rainforest series -- which is higher modulus, faster and more money.
Hope that helps. There are many good blanks out there, but I know the Rainshadow will not disappoint. Good luck.
Ron
Ron,
Sorry, I didn't see the plus sign next to the RX7. You were right. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Beaver
Whatever you make will become your favorite rod! Have fun!
Ron
A year or so ago I purchased a Tradition 3wt fly rod kit from Hook and Hackle. The kit came with everything to build the rod including a reamer for the cork handle. I really love that rod! Is it "top end?" No but I'm happy with it.
They have these kits in 5wt (according to their site) for around $73 for a 4-piece or around $100 for a 7pc pack rod.
My suggestion would be to buy this kit and build the rod. Whether you end up liking the rod or not, you won't be out a ton of money and then you can decide if you like building rods or not. You'll end up with a rod < $100 and then you can decide if you want to pursue rodbuilding further.
I agree with Steve ;-)
Actually, I used the Tradition 5 weight on the Madison River last August. My wife likes it better than the $250 blank she has on her rod.
Ron
I've never built a fly rod but I did sit in on a discussion with Ron from H &H about Project Healing Waters that then moved into rod building last week and I think that building a rod will be my next project after I finish learning how to tan a few rabbit skins and raccoons for tying. I know they don't need to be tanned... I just wanted to learn how to do it. :)
Here's my question. Is it better for a beginner to start with a two piece rod or is a 4 piece more difficult to build or does the number of pieces make any difference at all?
I have a few rod building books reserved from the local library that should help answer questions like this, but they won't be in for a couple days.
Thanks
Roy
My personnal opion is start with a 2 piece. requires less wrapping is all. keep in mind that at every ferrule you have to wrap thead to support it. a 4 piece rod can be a little tricky with the guide placement as well. Until you have done at least one rod I would start with a 2 piece. Others may not agree but that is my 2 cents on the subject
how do you tan the hides I hink that would be interesting.
I should work for ya huh? http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/i...cons/icon7.gif I'm even a Steeler Fan!!! http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/i...ons/icon12.gifhttp://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/i...cons/icon7.gifhttp://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/i...cons/icon7.gif
I really like my Tradition 3wt. I built a rod late last summer on the RX7+ 5pc blank you have on special and almost wished I'd ordered the 5wt Tradition instead.
CDPaul:
I answered your question via PM so not to highjack this thread.
Roy.
When you are done shaping the top of the guide feet make sure that you give the bottom a pass or two. Remove all burrs until the bottom is smooth. You don't want to engrave the blank with every cast, as over time it's possible to break the blank and you don't want to break the bank buying another blank. Sorry about the poetry ;)