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Hi,
As I try to expand my repertoire, I am going to try Thunder Creek Streamers. I don't have a drying wheel - yet, but I am curious, is it easier to use one of the UV set epoxies/glues to fix the head? I'm wondering about ease of operation, cost, space etc. I'm thinking the UV setting materials would be easier since you brush it on then hit with the light and viola! Done!
I appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike,
This does not answer your question directly, but another way to make an epoxy drying wheel is with an old rotisserie motor and a foam disc from the craft store. It is a more cost effective way of making one of those.
Regards,
Alberto
Mike,
I only have a little experience with UV products (Knotsense on a few Copper John wingcases), but I used epoxy/wheel a lot for saltwater flies. Got some decent results with epoxy and it's fairly cheap after the initial outlay (isn't that true for just about everything tying-related?), but I think I'd go with the UV. Even if you don't have a fancy curing light, one of those little pen-sized ones will get the stuff to hold in place, and then you can use the big curing light that goes across the sky every day.
Regards,
Scott
A couple of layers of SHHAN and hang them on a coat hanger. Worked for me.
Tig has it! Lots cheaper than the UV stuff that really need direct sunlight to set up properly.
Try several layers of a Gloss Coat Head finish.
Ditto on that. I use coat hangers, too. Works great.
Great ideas. I do have coat hangers and I live in a rotisserie deprived area. I have looked, not new of course, and have not found one! I'll try the hanger method.
Thanks,
Mike
Melk, you might find this interesting...I like his technique...and you might find the Loctite Go2 Glue he uses interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by melk
Follow the links to where he discusses his take on glues and epoxy.
Hi Ducksterman,
I appreciate your thoughts, but I can't find a link to check.
Thanks,
Mike
Realized I forgot to put the first link in...my bad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDQX2HjRYUA
Returning to the ORIGINAL question of the OP, yes the UV resins are easier to work with than epoxy, but I cannot get as symmetrical a head with UV products as I can with epoxy. That begin said, you just have to make sure that you have one that will flow well enough. What I've been doing is taking the finished fly out of the vise, and while holding it with a pair of hemostats, squeezing a small bead of UV resin on, and then working it into the shape I want with my bodkin, before hitting it with the UV flashlight. The purpose of the hemostats in my experience, is that if you do not keep the fly moving, the material will sag in one direction, so I rotate to keep it in shape. Process is pretty simple with very little practice. I still prefer epoxy, but the UV products work well enough. You might want to consider though that at the price, you could easily pay for a drying wheel with the difference between epoxy and the UV resins, if you tie a lot of flies. YMMV.
puffy paint - aka: frabric paint, no wheel, no drip just hang and let dry. can get in a chewy soft or a hard form. clear or any color you want
I use epoxy and a dryer for Thunders. As Whatfly mentioned it can be tough to get that classic shape with UV. You may need several layers...
Thank you all, lots to consider. I got a "new" came that should allow me to take closeups of what I tie. BUT, do I want to subject you all to that!!!
Mike
Melk,
First, if you have a rotary vise, you can use 5 minute epoxy on your Thunder Creeks without a drying wheel. Mix a small amount, apply, and turn the vise. You can 'adjust' the epoxy with a bodkin as you turn the vise, giving it the proper shape. If you mix the glue for a couple of minutes, it will 'set' so it won't sag after just a couple of minutes of turning by hand. Not efficient for a lot of flies, but it works.
Same deal with the UV glues. Apply, keep the vise turning and adjust with a bodkin. Once you get the shape you like, keep it turning and apply the light. Nice clean, symmetrical heads.
If you don't have a rotary vise, then a drying wheel is your best bet with either type of finish.
Buddy
I would suggest you look to one of our Sponsors , HOOK AND HACKLE, for their UV stuff. I've been using it for quite a while.
The beauty is that their brand costs about 25% of the competitors. You never need real sunlight.
As with ALL UV MATERIALS if you object to the slight stickiness after the stuff has been cured for a few seconds you can simply wipe the surface down with a Q-tip dipped in lacquer thinner. (use finger nail polish remover)