I've seen several videos where flat lead is used to weight nymphs, especially czech nymphs. Where can I get it? The "match book" like lead weights appear to be too large. I haven't seen them in catalogs? Any sources? Thanks
Printable View
I've seen several videos where flat lead is used to weight nymphs, especially czech nymphs. Where can I get it? The "match book" like lead weights appear to be too large. I haven't seen them in catalogs? Any sources? Thanks
Here you go...
http://www.bluequillangler.com/Produ...sive-Lead-Tape
Good wine used to have a lead seal around the cork. For many years this was the most common source. Of course it it really easy to make your own. Put some lead wire on your table and roll it with any round tool handle. A few passes and there you go.
Cheers,
A.
My alcohol consuming friends save the lead foil from their champagne bottles and such. It works fine but lacks the adhesive backing that the stuff that NJTroutBum posted.
REE
Thanks folks, thought I missed out on something to spend my tying funds on (:>)>
If you have one nearby check out Sportsman's Warehouse.
Cliff
Fly Tying Specialties has flat lead strips and also lead free strips if you are so inclined.
http://www.flytyingspecialties.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products _id=239
No need to get it from a fly shop. The cheapest source is to go to a sports shop and buy the lead tape that is used to adjust the head weight of golf clubs and tennis raquets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kytroutbum
http://www.golfsmith.com/product/300...-lead-tape-1-2
http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAA#ps-sellers
If you need only a few inches of flat lead strip try using your vise. Using no more than normal hook clamping force you can flatten the standard round wire. I just measured some. .025 wire was flattened to .008 inches. Simply "walk along " the wire step by step. This is thin enough for me. Good luck.
The lead tape from the golf store solution is fine, if you want to spend the time cutting your own (it is a bit of a pain, especially for smaller sizes). The home made remedies work as well, but your will not get square edges like the premade product. As Jayatwork pointed out, Steve Korbay at Fly Tying Specialties is traditionally the first place I look for Czech nymph products in the US.
That being said, never really thought the time nor price was worth the return, but YMMV.
Buy it in bulk: http://www.tapecase.com/p.712.201/3m...foil-tape.aspx
Isn't the golf shop wrap stuff much thicker?
No, it's thin, Ray. ~.005"Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Kunz
I've only used a couple of the "square" leads that are available. Neither of them had square corners anyway. It works out at less than 5% more weight for the extra cost. Also if the adhesive is very thick, as it is on some of the available sheets, you may as well be winding copper wire. overall it will be heavier. I agree with whatfly, not worth the time trouble and expense.Quote:
Originally Posted by whatfly
What we need to do is think about what we are trying to achieve. What is wanted isn't necessarily a heavier fly, but one that sinks faster. The balance between light and heavy materials make more difference than a tiny amount more lead. These days I use "bugs" (as this style of fly has become called here in the UK) made from various coloured copper wires woven together and coated with UV resin. They sink much faster than ones with dubbed bodies. They are easy to tie, as you can let go of the wire while weaving without it unraveling. Use less materials, and can have some great colour effects.
Cheers,
C.
You already have the material you need, you just need to reshape it....
1. Find a hard surface
2. Lay a strip of weighted wire (I use non-lead).
3. Using the handle of my Exacto Knife (blade removed), run the handle along the wire, flatten the wire.
4. Repeat Step 3, until you have the thickness and width that you need....
~Parnelli
I like using flatten weighted wire, because the thread wraps do not get caught in between the wraps of wire....
Alan,
Can you post an example of how the woven copper flies are tied?
This is not the best of photos. I'll try again tomorrow during the brief hours of daylight but it should give you the idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1_edited-1.jpg
Fl. Fire Orange UTC thread. Two strands of wire, each made from two strands of wire twisted together, Top is brown and silver, the bottom gold. (I twist them up with a dubbing whirl). They are tied on the sides of a grub hook. I tie the strand that will be the top on my side of the hook and the bottom one on the far side. It doesn't matter which way round you do this but always do it the same. It is usual to put the lighter coloured strand as the underside. Run the thread back up to the eye and whip off. Turn the vice towards you and shuttle weave the two wires to the head. I usually use black or brown thread so start this behind the eye, THEN tie down the two strands and worry them off. Don't try to be cleaver and start the thread while tying off. You'll just fail at both that way. Do one thing at a time. Then form your head and whip finish. Cover the whole fly in UV resin, (or epoxy, or head cement).
Use whatever colours of thread and wire you like. The above isn't a particularly successful pattern just what I had to hand to photograph, so I described its tying. Colour makes no difference to the tying mechanics (I know fly tiers who think it does!!!). A good variation is to use holographic tinsel as an under body. If you like you can add tails, legs, even a bead head. On smaller flies I use a single strand each for top and bottom. Weaving like this adds about 25% wire more than winding the body.
I'll try to explain the shuttle weave. With your vice turned so the hook eye is facing you.
1, Take the under strand under the hook and in front of the over strand.
2, Take the over strand under the under strand, and over the hook.
Repeat on the other side of the hook.
You do this working from side to side until you reach the eye. Working with wire you can let go, with floss you must maintain the tension. A good reason to learn with wire, then progress to floss.
Hopefully that is a little clearer than mud. One of these days I'll get someone to video this. It is very hard to explain in words and photos.
The most expensive way to make these is, unfortunately, UTC wire. I've bought silver wire, I mean solid sterling silver, for less than the price of UTC. The wire used above is coloured beading wire in 0.4mm. 100 yds costs half the price of one spool of UTC.
Enjoy!
Cheers,
C.
Thanks.
I get the idea. Thanks especially for the tips on how to get cheaper wire.
Just found this video on the shuttle weave. It is easier to do with the vice facing you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=15JqsMQ3Np0
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
C.
There are four weave patterns that can be found in Al Campbell's "Advance Fly Tying Series"...
Tiger Weave http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/advanced/part1.php
Hook Weave http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/advanced/part2.php
Woven Weave http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/advanced/part3.php
Granny Weave http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/advanced/part4.php
Hey guys --- Watch the hijacking.
You're talking good stuff so why not start a new thread?
I cut the lead tape into the strip widths I want. I use a rotary cutter and a cutting board. A rotary cutter and craft cutting boards allow you to make precise cuts on foam as well. I use them to cut my craft foam for fly tying. Buy them on Ebay or use a discount coupon for JoAnns or Michaels.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rotary+cutter
Why are rotary cutters better than say a razor blade box cutter etc.?
Do the wheels stay sharp for a long time?
Aren't they fairly expensive compared to razor blades?
Lots of folks seem to recommend the rotary.
A blade cuts by pulling on the material to force the blade to cut. This pulling can stretch foam and get a more ragged cut. A rotary cutter rolls and pushes down to cut through the material against the cutting board. The rotary cutter results in a smoother cut.
Think of the diffference between a plow and disc.
AH! makes sense.
Do the wheels last?
I've never replaced mine. However, I have a good supply. Fiskars used to have a factory and distribution center here with a factory sale every year. Rotary blades were a buck a piece and fly tying scissors for $2.
The sale draws people from several states. They buy and resell on Ebay.
http://www.warehouseweekends.com/2008/11/fiskars-warehouse-sale.html
http://www.splitcoaststampers.com/fo...g-t460440.html
I plan to save "worn" blades and keep them for cutting lead only.
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I tried to buy a roll of lead tape from Dick's in Lexington. The salesman gave me a 6 foot strip. My wife scapbooks so I'll "borrow" her rotary cutter(:>). Thanks for the info. Randall
http://www.performanceflies.com/ also has the flat lead strips as well as other Czech Nymphing supplies. That Copper woven nymph is beautiful! I just can't seem to get the hang of woven flies. I need to practice the technique.