Rod Finish Haze...

After a few weeks of saying that I'd have this rod done, I'm finally at that point, but I'm not quite ready to finish it up just yet.

I ordered some Flex Coat for the finish. The first coat went on smoothly and came out with very few bubbles which didn't really show up after it had cured. The second coat has a haze on the surface. I am considering putting a third coat on since the wraps look like they only have one.

The second coat was mixed slowly for a couple of minutes and was clear when I put it on. The first coat I mixed a bit faster and came out with air bubbles...

Will the haze have any ill effect on the third coat? I am considering trying to redo this, but may leave it like it is.

Overall, I have had good luck with Flex Coat lite. I did have a couple of wraps develop a haze and I didn't really know, for certain, why. I do think ;however, that the the wraps that were hazy were the wraps that I sanded down after the first coat dried and before applying the second coat. For whatever reason I think the flex coat didn't flow down into the minute grooves left from the sanding and they appear as a haze.

I general, when I am applying the flex coat, I first warm it a little by placing the syringes in a baggy and then floating the baggy in warm water. This seems to thin it out a little.

Then I mix in a dappen dish for several minutes (about 3) and then pour the mix into another dappen dish (those plastic things you can buy to mix it in) and let is set a minute. Then I blow on it to make it settle and express the bubbles that are left.

When I am applying it to the wrap, I apply with a paint brush and then I flame it quickly with an alcholol torch -- this really smooths out the surface.

Hope this helps. I know it is frustrating when you are trying to make it look perfect.

I thought sanding it would be a bad idea. I think I may try that. It'll help with the rough spots also...

Not that this post will solve your present problem, but give Threadmaster epoxy a try. I just finished 2 rods using the regular build (vs. their "Lite" version). In my opinion, it beats Flex Coat hands down.

John

I believe the haze is caused by very tiny bubbles. If I'm right no amount of sanding will take that out. I also believe the appearance after sanding will be worse than the haze.
I built a rod that developed a haze just on one wrap. I assumed the tiny bubbles did not dissipate till after I did that wrap.
To be honest I don't know what caused the haze.

I have never built a rod, so, what I am about to say may have absolutely nothing to do with the problem you have. I do know floor finishing since one of my jobs here at the local college is to set the standards on all custodial projects. I know, from experience, that if you do not allow the first coat of floor finish to try completely and you apply the second coat, the finish will not have that "wet look" to it when it dries no matter how many more coats of finish you apply. This is caused by trapping some moisture that has not evaporated completely from the first coat of floor finish. When it comes to applying finish of anykind, if there is going to be more than one coat, you must slow down and make sure to allow plenty of time for each coat to completely dry. You can apply one coat of floor finish and 30 minutes later you can walk on it and it feels completely dry. It is not completely dry and if you apply the next coat you have lost the shine. My opinion only is to have proper drying time, proper room temperatures and take your time. Do not hurry with finish coats of anything. This is the last step to completing your rod and if you hurry now, you have ruined the end results. The rod quality is still good, but, it will not have the eye appeal you were hoping for.

Like I stated, this may have nothing to do with the problem you are having, but, it is what came to my mind after reading your thread.

Sounds like it could be amine blush to me... Essentially, amines (chemical accelerants in the curing process in epoxies) combine with carbon dioxide and water and leave a surface layer due to high humidity.

Usually the first wrap it is used on will be the worst because the epoxy has not kicked enough to keep the heat up, slowing the cure on the thinner, smaller amount of epoxy left on the wrapping.

In my experience blush is pretty non-uniform on wrappings and avoiding high humidity conditions when applying epoxy will prevent it. A reasonable magnifier will show if it is bubbles or blush...

A wipe down with a strong solvent will usually take it right off. Be very careful with the solvent and do not scrub down onto the rod itself.
art

What type of solvent? Would acetone work?

The haze I have is right on the surface. I allowed much more than 24 hours for the first coat to cure. I did, however, do it outside on the porch before a rain, so it probably was what you mentioned Art.

The blush could be a number of different chemical compositions and some remove easily... Others not so easily. Try vinegar first and rub hard... Most amine blushes are by base compounds and the vinegar will affect them.

Then try other solvents like acetone and MEK. Use a Q-tip to keep the solvent local.
art

Good evening.
A suggestion or two, if I may.

Do not apply any added heat to your epoxy finish.....never ever.
this could be your haze problem.

Be super careful, what and with what you mix your epoxy on/with as in most cases it will react with any silicon on your mixing bed, therefore a piece of glass is the chosen way.
this could be your haze problem.

Moist cold air could also be your problem with the haze factor.

To recover the haze section, most times this would be ok, but first slight sand with 600 grade wet and dry paper first.
BUT I would not; I would strip and do all the hard work again.

To obtain a better smoother look/finish
AND it helps to remove/release the bubbles.

Place both the A and B parts in warm water for about 1hour or more to soak the temperature through the epoxy parts.
Myself, I leave A and B in about 27C sunshine for a couple of hours before mixing.

Kind regards,
UB

Hi Joe,

I think UB might have nailed it right on the head. My 2wt I built not long ago has the haze. Since it was my first, and I have another sitting here, I'm not too concerned, and I'm lazy and don't wanna tear it down haha.

Anyways, when I did it, the epoxy was stored in a very cold climate....my house:) With my 4wt I started, I let the epoxy sit in warm water for about 20-30 seconds. I didn't have the problem after that.

So, if the epoxy was cold at all and not heated back to ideal temps, that could very well have been the problem I think.

Good luck,
Shane

Good morning.
And please......... mix on glass as it will save a heck of a lot of problems !

Kind regards,
UB

Well since I don't have the money to start another rod, and I'm getting to the point to where I want this rod to look a little better, I think I may just start over on it. BUT! I'm not doing it yet. I want to fish with this rod right now and two coats should be fine on it. I'll leave it like it is until a convenient time when I can redo it. It'll give me a chance to brush up on my calligraphy and get some practice at putting my mark on the rod also....

I've had this problem on a couple of rods I've built and I'm thinking it was caused by humidity more than cold. Every time it has happened, It was real humid out and i work in my basement...not the driest of locales. I've found that if it's to cold, the Flex Coat won't dry at all, or it will dry very lumpy. The bad part about this is that I had to completely remove the wraps and re-do them. Hang in there and let us know how you make out.

Ken