slip on leader loops

i seen at our fly shop nearby (bout an hour drive) while getting some streamer & scud hooks some slip on leader loops....they are made by cortland & was a florescent yellow green in colour......slide on the fly line kinda like a chinese finger trap toy & fasten on with a length of shrink tubing.......the pack of 4 was bout 4$ so i got 1 just to try out & they work great.....easy to put on too......i ruined the first leader loop tryin to put it on so i cut an angle on the tip of a fly line & the loop went on just fine.....even stayed on when i attached a 25lb weight to the end of it & tugged it around a little like i was fightin a fish (didnt do the test with the line on my rod).......

had some by a different company 2 years ago but never would stay on the line, slipping off when ya hook a desent size fish......

They do work pretty good, but, I have had them come off. I think it was due to the shrink tubing bumping the rod tip and allowing it to slip a little each time until it finally came off. You might be wise to add one drop of super glue next to the shrink tubing on the loop side which will lock it on. I do not use them at all now. I use the Castwell Knot which has never failed and makes for a lot smaller connection which goes through the rod guides real well.

Hope you have a great Christmas!

I have used those Cortland slip-ons before and found them to be so-so. Never had one come off but did not like the leader performance using them, especially with dries. Since I was originally taught a loop to loop connection, for the most part that continues today, only I use a few other methods ~ Nail knot, old timey Eagle Claw line-to-leader plastic connectors, making a loop at the end of the fly line and securing that loop by winding.

On my trip to Alaska this past August, for the first time ever, had a healthy pink salmon (I think, that was what we had been catching), actually break my fly line just above the loop. I cannot ever remember a fish breaking the fly line, leaders where always the weak link. Was using about a five foot 12 lb mono leader looped to my special hand crafted fly line loop. Was not a new line, in fact really cannot recall when that particular line was put into service. What I did right there in the field was to tie a perfection loop in the end of the fly line, trimmed the excess close, and continue fishing. The particular rod I was using (a 9wt), has large rod guides so getting loop hung up was not a problem.




Dale

how do you make a loop at the end of a flyline just using the flyline itself ? any video or instructions of some sort on how to do it ?

Bugman, Most people who make a loop out of just their fly line use fly tying thread to wrap it together, then use something like epoxy to put a smooth and secure connection.

heres a loop in a fly line

http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/erloops/index2.html

Scientific Anglers L2L Reconnect leaders............... best thing since sliced bread!

thanks fer the link........

for some added insurance to keeping a braided loop onto the fly line, add a nail knot as shown in the attachment

Be aware that if you use super glue or epoxy you are creating pretty much a rock hard spot and therefore a hinge point that has the potential to split/crack the fly line.....I've seen it.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Normand

for some added insurance to keeping a braided loop onto the fly line, add a nail knot as shown in the attachment

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I do something simular. First off, I'm a lousy nail knot tyier, so I picked-up this little doohickey from Cabelas and now I can tie 'em like the pros!

http://www.creekcompany.com/indivdis...utoID=35&Cat=1


I just double the line back and using the tool tie it off for the size loop I want. You can then touch it up the end with some thread winding, or I've even used some of that electrical heat shrink tubing and pull that over the nail knot and then apply some heat. Either way, don't come out too awful bad ... plently good enough for the girls I go with!



Dale

I, too, use the nail knot tool, and tie on 20# mono right to the end of the fly line, and a perfection loop within 2" of the nail knot. I tie perfection loops on my leaders so I can easily change them with a "handshake."

Those chinese fingers are junk in my book, and are designed for people who don't want to learn to tie fishing knots. I used to be one of those people until I had two failures a year apart where I lost leader, tippet and two-fly rigs to hooked steelhead. A friend taught me the nail knot and perfection loop setup, and I threw the other slip connectors in the trash. Five years with no problems and no extra pieces-parts dangling from my fly line or slapping on my rod.

Joe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe Valencic

I, too, use the nail knot tool, and tie on 20# mono right to the end of the fly line, and a perfection loop within 2" of the nail knot. I tie perfection loops on my leaders so I can easily change them with a "handshake."

Those chinese fingers are junk in my book, and are designed for people who don't want to learn to tie fishing knots. I used to be one of those people until I had two failures a year apart where I lost leader, tippet and two-fly rigs to hooked steelhead. A friend taught me the nail knot and perfection loop setup, and I threw the other slip connectors in the trash. Five years with no problems and no extra pieces-parts dangling from my fly line or slapping on my rod.

Joe

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That is exactly how I set up mine! :)

Works Great!

I've used a variety of connections, from nail knotting the leader directly to the fly line to nail knotting a short length of mono to the tip end of the fly line and then tying a perfection knot for a loop to loop connection to the leader as Joe describes to braided loops by Cortland and Rio.

For the type of fishing I do, and the size of the fish I catch ( trout, 95% of which are under 18" ), I prefer the simplicity and convenience of braided loops, and I prefer the Rio braided loops over the Cortland. I've had a couple braided loops come off the fly line, but never with a fish on, and a couple wear out.

If I were going after larger fish, I would go to a more secure connection as others have suggested.

The link provided by Normand is much appreciated. When I do run out of braided loops, I will likely try one of the methods described there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe Valencic

I, too, use the nail knot tool, and tie on 20# mono right to the end of the fly line, and a perfection loop within 2" of the nail knot.

Joe

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Doing the same with my nail knot configeration, only I think (please note I said "think") the 25# mono has given a little better performance for me. Have you tried or experimented with different sized leader material?


Thanks,



Dale

No, I have not tried different sized leader materials. My target species are all under 20#, and I have a lifetime supply of 20# mono on a spool. If I were targeting larger fish, I would go with leader material to match the fly line.

Joe

If you use the slip on configuration, and the shrink tube, watch very carefully the connection as it meets the fly line. After casting numerous times (I don't know how many! Just say "lots of" ), the line will break at that juncture. It's like the edge of the shrink tube is harder than the line and cuts through over time. If you don't check, you'll only find out after that large trout snaps off the hook, tippet, leader, and connector ... never to be seen again.

As I indicated above I know epoxy and super glue cause that problem but didn't realize shrink wrap does....Thanks, Betty.

Anyone know if Pliobond has the problem?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe Valencic

No, I have not tried different sized leader materials. My target species are all under 20#, and I have a lifetime supply of 20# mono on a spool. If I were targeting larger fish, I would go with leader material to match the fly line.

Joe

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The chief reason I went with the 25# is when I went to replace the 20# the store was out and so I got the twenty-fiver. What I discovered (for me anyway), is that the 25# seems to do better perfection loops. While continuing to experiment a little, found the 30# too heavy.




Dale

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Betty Hiner

If you use the slip on configuration, and the shrink tube, watch very carefully the connection as it meets the fly line. After casting numerous times (I don't know how many! Just say "lots of" ), the line will break at that juncture. It's like the edge of the shrink tube is harder than the line and cuts through over time. If you don't check, you'll only find out after that large trout snaps off the hook, tippet, leader, and connector ... never to be seen again.

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I've not experienced that problem with just slipping the heat shrink over my fashioned loop on a regular fly line and then applying some heat. Of course, I make new loops on a regular basis, like annually or sooner if it looks like it's needed. So maybe mine do not get the "lots of" usage you might be describing. But what I have heard, amoung usin' fly fishers in this neck of the woods, is that one has to take care of applying the heat to the shrink tube least it damage the fly line.



Dale

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DaleW

<clipped> But what I have heard, amoung usin' fly fishers in this neck of the woods, is that one has to take care of applying the heat to the shrink tube least it damage the fly line.
Dale

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In addition to taking care with the heat, watch where the top of the shrink tube rubs against the fly line (hinges). THAT'S where the line will cut through. It's not caused by the application of heat. It's where the tube turns hard (and sharp) over use.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ducksterman

As I indicated above I know epoxy and super glue cause that problem but didn't realize shrink wrap does....Thanks, Betty.

Anyone know if Pliobond has the problem?

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ducksterman.............
Pliobond will stay flexible for infinity.
I have lines that are 20 years old and the Pliobond is still flexible.
It looks brown but is as good as new and won?t peal off.
If I were to use slip on leader loops, (I prefer to make a loop by folding over the end of my fly line and then adding two nail knots), I would anchor the end of the loop with an eight turn nail knot made out of 30 Lb gel spun. Then coat the nail know with Pliobond.
DickM.

you can fold the fly line over and nail knot the two ends togther then i wrap it with flat waxed thread to smooth it over.

I have gone full circle and am now at a very simple solution. But first allow me to digress.
In the beginning I used nail knots and even needle knots (same as the nail, but the leader goes up the center of the fly line first). I have coated them with epoxy, which is smooth and strong, but leads to a hinge point and crack in the line.
I have used leader loops, but as mentioned by others they also cause a hinge and crack. They have another problem too. They retain water within the weave which sprays all over the place when false casting - not good when you are casting a dry fly on a calm pool.
The #25 mono nail knot and perfection loop plan still has a nail knot involved - and has the extra perfection loop before the leader starts (the leader has a perfection loop (but a perfection loop at the butt of your leader is a good thing as we shall see).
The Castwell Knot is an excellent solution - and is a variation of the Sheet Bend , where the Castwell Knot uses the tag of the Sheet Bend as the main line and the main line as the tag.
What I do is put a Perfection Loop in the end of the leader and use a Double Sheet Bend to attach it to the line. It is really easy to change leaders if needed. It does not always slide through the guides though, so I just keep that in mind in determining leader length and the method of bringing the fish to hand.
In the attached link the dark line represents the Perfection Loop on the leader and the light line represents the fly-line. It has held for 3-4 years on several set-ups for trout, bass and steelhead.
http://www.troop7.org/Knots/SheetDouble.html

Gee, I guess all these fancy connections and knots, every one is using, sort of antiquates my system of 2 plates of 1/4 stainless steel, 4 stainless bolts of Rockwell hardness 20 and corresponding nuts and lock washers, huh!?!

It not only, holds well, but with one false cast I can throw my entire fly line and 75% of my backing. Which, I admit, causes a wee bit of hassle on small creeks..............

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flybinder

Gee, I guess all these fancy connections and knots, every one is using, sort of antiquates my system of 2 plates of 1/4 stainless steel, 4 stainless bolts of Rockwell hardness 20 and corresponding nuts and lock washers, huh!?!

It not only, holds well, but with one false cast I can throw my entire fly line and 75% of my backing. Which, I admit, causes a wee bit of hassle on small creeks..............

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The visual makes me LMAO

Thanks needed that....

Paul;
That sounds like a real "Chuck & Duck" connection!! OUCH!!
I use the Castwell knot. I've also tried the braided loops but the Castwell knot is so much quicker and holds very well.

I use the nail knot with perfection loop connection. But I tie a tapered 9' leader on first and then when it gets "whittled" down I cut it and tie the perfection loop about 3inch into the butt section of the leader. Does this make any sense?
Janus

I use the braided loops, but attach them,(secure them), with two bands of thread wraps, one at the butt end and one right at the tip of the fly line. I like them because they're handy for switching from one leader to another, or adding a sink tip. I've flipped the line back on itself and secured with thread wraps, too, but that glued point on the thread does exactly what they say, cracks the line. With the braided loops, the thread has a base between itself and the fly line, and I have not experienced any cracking with them.

ROR-EYE ..........
By making a wrap at the tip of the fly line you have completely negated the idea behind the braided loop. That is, the chinese finger trap that will tighten harder and harder the more the loop is pulled on and it will dig more fiercely into the fly line. The loops should be secured only at the end of the braid and is best done with an eight turn nail knot. This will allow the braid to dig into the fly line for it?s entire length. You might want to coat the nail knot with Pliobond to help it slid through the guides better and as an abrasion protectent for the nail knot.

Dick,

I see your point, but the reason I place a second band of thread at the tip of the fly line is so that the actual base of the doubled braid, where the braid is the stiffest, does not pull away from the tip of the fly line, causing a hinge point when casting. If you can keep the tip of the fly line and the back end of the loop in the braid, you won't experience the hinging effect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big Bad Wulff

Scientific Anglers L2L Reconnect leaders............... best thing since sliced bread!

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I have had these come appart. They look like indicators and and not complimentary to my casting efforts.

Here is an animated link to a perfection loop and nail knot: http://www.orvis.com/orvis_assets/files/index.html

I make a "furled link' out of 6/0 Uni-Thread.
I like the link to be at least as many strands as the heaviest furled leader I might use on that line.
My links are made "level" (no taper), and have loops at both ends.
The link can be made any length, but just a few inches is good for a leader well matched to the line.
A long link can be a good way to make a light leader work with a heavy line.
A pink link makes a good indicator.
I furl the the link on a one peg furling board setup, and just twist the whole length from one end.
Connect the link to the fly line with a Castwell, and the leader to the link with loop to loop.

That is a very interesting concept....may just have to experiment with that a little.
Thanks for sharing....

hello everyone...I have used the nylon loop myself...it was so so and eventually broke on me...am back to the standard nail knot and I will say its NEVER failed...I find its the best for me partly because of my long leaders...I wouldnt be able to get the loop up thru the guides when casting or when landing a fish..