For my Keys trip in early may I am wondering what tint of shades work the best for both mid day and lower light and overcast conditions?
-Jeff
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For my Keys trip in early may I am wondering what tint of shades work the best for both mid day and lower light and overcast conditions?
-Jeff
My understanding is in 'general' for deep water you want the smoke (darker) colored lenses. Shallow water, like flats, you want more of an amber tint.
TT.
Interesting, I'll be there at the same time.
On my previous trips, I found amber much more effective in the turquoise waters.
Dark is almost imperative as the sun and the reflection off the white bottom and the white boat deck will not only burn your skin but will get to your eyes. Get wrap around style glasses for two reasons: it makes the boat ride more comfortable, and it keeps light from sneaking in the side of your glasses.
I stay pretty tan year round and still need to be careful of the sun.
Buy a BUFF -- everyone uses one, for good reason. it is the best $23 you'll spend on this trip.
Get a long sleeve light weight quick dry shirt and shorts. You may occasionally wade off the boat on the flats and long pants suck for this.
I wear a visor but I have hair and have a buff to protect my neck. Many wear wide brimmed hats.
I wear deck shoes or Keens and shorts. Keens work fine for wading.
Think pastel for your wardrobe. Nothing stands out like "tourist" more than a flower print shirt and checked shorts (except maybe knee socks and black shoes). There is something to be said for camouflage and light blue, white and turquoise shirts match the sky and water. I have been known, however, to fish in pink or canteloupe. It is the Keys, after all.
Excellent recommendations from Coach! Our 1st trip to the Bahamas was with smoke gray/blue Polorides, couldn't see a thing. Guide took us to a small fly shop and insisted we buy amber glasses. Got clip-ons since we both wore prescription glasses. Eventually got the amber in the prescription glasses as well.
Most of all have FUN! The planning and anticipation sometimes are the best part of the trip.
Hugs,
LadyFisher
Another vote for amber on shallow flats. Brown and Copper also work well. I prefer photochromatic models that change the the amount of light passed through as light conditions change on partly cloudy days. I usually carry at least two pairs of sunglasses so I have a spare. I use grey for bluewater stuff.
Wear your clothing and test any sunscreens before the trip. I got a Buff a couple of years ago after so many people recommended one. A few hours after wearing it the first day my face started to itch. By evening it had broke out in a nasty rash. I had washed it before using it. Apparently I am allergic to something in the material or dye. I still use it but only for a three or four hours mid-day.
While I have limited tropical saltwater experience salmon fishing has a lot of the same requirements and a lot of more difficult light conditions. I carry at least three pairs of glasses all the time and it makes a huge difference. On silt bottom I might carry six pairs!
Often the cheapest works best on a given situation...
I and a lot of other guides and avid anglers who fish SWFL a lot have found the HaberVision Copper Rose tint to be the ultimate in performance eyewear choice for that environment. If you look at the Columbia, Belagio, and a few others on this page, you will find that they all have the highest quality lenses, are available in Copper Rose tint, are polarized, and have a broad range light-sensitive changing lense. They're also extremely scratch-resistant and the frames are nearly indestructible. My wife wore the Magnum Variants throughout her combat tour in Iraq last year.
I bought Copper/Rose Habers before a Keys trip last year. I couldn't see everything the guide did, but by the end of the day I was certainly able to locate permit tails. I was amazed at how well I was able to see once I got calibrated.Quote:
Originally Posted by flyguy66
Back on my home trout waters, the Habers continue to perform. I can much more easily see fish feeding now where previously I could not. I like them quite a bit.
I fish saltwater flats in Florida almost exclusively. I use amber colored as do most of my friends. One trick alluded to in the previous post is to focus on the bottom rather than on the surface. The tendency is to focus on the surface. If you do that you will miss a lot of shadows on the bottom.
I have been using the Haber Copper/Rose lenses for four years now I think. I wear the "Nice" frames. My Action Optics, Hobie, and Oakley glasses have become backups to my backups because I purchased additional pairs of Habervision glasses to have as backups. I also like the copper/rose for driving. I do find them to be not dark enough in alpine situations under bright skies when there is a lot of exposed rock to reflect sunlight and still prefer grey on the open ocean but I use the copper/rose for everything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by 92Esquire
Well first I'm going to assume that you are fishing for Tarpon, Bones and Permit with a few Barracuda, Jacks and more mixed in. I list Tarpon first as many hit the keys around May keying on those big silvers that go a bit gaga when the worms hatch. The flats are a mixed lot, from lots of sand, to good grass flats and some with a good bit of marl or muck bottoms here and there. Weather is usually sunny for the most part although a storm or two can roll through. The time between around 9am till around 3:30pm is the prime time as the sun's angle is superb then for using the polarization of your glasses. When the sun drops below 37 degrees morning or night the effective polarization drops off quickly. That said I like you evidently, liek something along for the mornings and evenings as well as overcast days to boost contrast, add a bit of shading, add polarization, etc. My choice were a pair of ultra light wrap around Hobies in the lightests yellow imaginable. These are the only glasses I use that do not have a glass lens. As good as the plastics are the can't compare to glass for clarity and sturdiness. The wrap around also helps block all side and overhead, under reflections that will destroy your ability to ferret out a fish among the sand patches.Quote:
Originally Posted by birddog
For midday, my choice is the darker brown, http://www.sporteyes.com/smithcolors.htm and if you notice they offer the lowest percentage of passed light even better than the coppers. Were I fishing over strictly grass, I might go to my greens as they do boost contrast when there's a bit of green to contend with. Both my Browns and Greens are AO (Smiths) with the glass lens and I do use side shields and wear a wide brimmed hat that has the underside of the brim blackened. I mentioned the Tarpon and other fish above as the predominate side color of these fish is silver and highly reflective of the bottom. I've had great luck with many brands of sun glasses but these days stick to the AOs, Hobies, Costas, Haber, etc (top quality) Oh yes, on that side reflection, as you will depend on contrast a lot to see the outline of back and belly of the fish as well as any bars or shading. The yellow or yellow component of brown and even the greens is what boosts that the most. Check out my blog for a good bit more on what makes good flats glasses and add to that list given above a good pair of lightweight binos a great aid in finding birds and the fish they follow.
I agree with your findings on the limitations of the Copper-rose tint in places where this a ton of reflected bright sunlight like wide-open water on clear days and in the mountains where you're not in shade from bluffs, trees, etc. In the mountains, I wear brown lenses (Nice tortoise w/brown). And on open water on bright days I wear the black w/gray+blue flash.Quote:
Originally Posted by tailingloop
I can't comment on flats specific, but I can on general use.
What causes haze is an excess of blue light, so cutting back on that is going to help you see better.
So, we've got three general shades we use.. Yellow, brown, and grey.
Grey is going to be the one that reproduces the most accurate colour tones, but it does the least of the three to reduce the excess blue light. If you buy photography filters, you will find a true Neutral Density filter is grey shaded.
Brown, or amber, is going to change colour reproduction from natural. However, because of its composition, it will cut back on blue light helping to reduce haze and increase clarity any time an excess of blue wavelengths are about. This is why as twilight recedes, or dusk encroaches, you may find that contrary to common sense, your sunglasses increase your ability to see details.
Finally, there's yellow lenses. Yellow will do more to reduce blue light versus brown, however it won't be as darkly shaded. This is why you often see things like driving, shooting, or other assorted glasses for activites sold with yellow lenses. Again, from a photography standpoint, a Wratten Yellow #8 is often used as the "standard" in B&W photography. The classic B&W films (I don't keep up much anymore) are blue sensitive, so using a yellow filter would help reproduce better contrast in your pictures. Many photographers, upon seeking more dramatic results, might switch out to a Wratten 25 red. Not that matters, but as an example of cutting back blue light.
So, with that said, the recommendation to anyone buying polarized lenses for sporting purposes, I always suggest amber.