Ron...clever:cool:
How about some detailed pictures of the pegs and discussion.
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Ron...clever:cool:
How about some detailed pictures of the pegs and discussion.
Ever since watching Kathy's DVD I've wanted to make a furling board, and wanted a collapsible multi-piece board easy storage, with adjustable pegs. So I'm watching this thread with much anticipation.
Until seeing the T-slots I never thought about that. But that gave me some ideas. Here's my rod wrapping jig I made several years ago. The rod cradles are bolted down with regular hex-head bolts in t-slots cut with a key-hole router bit. The slot is just big enough to keep the head of the bolt from turning when I tighten the wing nuts. For rod wrapping this makes it's easily adjustable to fit around guides. Instead of the vertical cradle, I'm thinking use this concept only with a dowel glued in a small rectangular block base similar to this only with 1 bolt/wing nut?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...h_HPIM0429.jpg
Also adhesive tape measures can be found at wood working stores for sticking to benches, sawtabels etc. Run one of these down the middle for quick measuring adjustments?
Bass Bug,
I don't think you would need the rectangular block. Wouldn't it be simpler to just use a wooden dowel and do the slot like Kaboom and one wing knot on the under surface of board...with or without washers ?
I guess I'll take the tape replacement back....wasn't sure there was someting like that out there....
Hope this is helpful.
Pegs are 1 1/8 Dowel 4 inches long. End is counter bored with a 7/8 forsner bit, then drilled with 3/8 bit 2 inches deep.
The t-nuts are dry fitted ( hammered in ) then apoxied ( keep apoxy from threads )
click to see larger image
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...Pegsnparts.jpg
click to see larger image
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...egsDiagram.jpg
[QUOTE=ducksterman;321216]Bass Bug,
I don't think you would need the rectangular block. Wouldn't it be simpler to just use a wooden dowel and do the slot like Kaboom and one wing knot on the under surface of board...with or without washers ?
QUOTE]
I was thinking along the lines of the way I built my wrapping jig. The T-slot in that doesnt go clear thru. The wing nut on top draws it up. making any adjustment able to be made on the top without turning the jig over.
It's still in the mental design stage.
Bass Bug....only for the sake of discussion...
That wrapping jig looks great...
But let's say we go all the way through like Kaboom...then I am visualizing a dowel with a bolt seated in it ...[however]...but the thread side down...then a wing nut under the board ... I don't think the board has to be turned over ...just position the peg and reach under and tighten the wing nut...no visualization necessary....in fact you could hold the wing nut and turn the peg.
Duck
The nut is held in a threaded PVC plug that I turned to fit inside a piece of 3/4" PVC that is the actual post (Denny is right, the 3/4" PVC makes great posts). The nut is held in the threaded fitting with a piece of 1/2" PVC turned to fit into it. Give me a couple of days for the pictures...I will post them ASAP.
Brad
Kaboom....
What is your basic board...width ...type of wood...etc ...etc...????...why did you pick that one?
The board I purchased... based on my previous board ...was a disaster after I routed the grooves...like ribbons waving in the breeze...and worse
I need to regroup...re: what I think is a good basic board...I've been trying to keep it narrow and light.....
1x6x10' pine from the big box store. I tried to find one with fairly straight grain so the router would not try and follow the grain and go straight. I cut in in 2 pieces after routing the grooves.
The trick is to rout the center groove first and then the side slots. I used the fence on the router, but if I make another, I will clamp a straight edge to the board for the router to ride against.
Don't ask how I know this...I feel your pain.